Joe Kelley
Active member
SM, I ran an ATS 250 on a seagrass tank for almost 3 years. It worked. Not sure about your design. Get Adey's book and read it if you have not. We could talk if you'd like.
Joe
Joe
Waterfall Turf Algea Filter: CHEAP and EASY to build
- Thread starter SantaMonica
- Start date
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Power of turf: This is the main reason I wanted to get some turf going. It appears to be not a little, but a GIGANTIC leap in N and P processing, for a given size. The graphs that someone posted in older posts (I think taken from Dynamic Aquaria) seemed to show turf being 20 or 30 times higher in processing power per unit size. Nobody mentioned it, but I surmized the reason was the high CO2 content of the air.
Raceways: I thought about a raceway (as in the linked pics, or one like Paul B. has), but it seemed to me to lack the air-portion of a surge. I'm sure raceways work, but maybe you need a larger size for a give amount of processing. Also, since they are horizontal by design (and although they fit perfectly with a 4-foot pc bulb), they kinda eliminate any chance of placement below the tank.
Growing in tank: Good to hear of another case of turf keeping to it's own area, and not getting into the tank.
"Vertical Bioreactor": Now that is a cool name! From the pic it looks like he has water running down those sheets of algea.
Growing on box: This just occured to me... How would the turf grow on the inside of the box, when the inside of the box is dry? Remember it's vertical. The horizontal ones, of course, were basically tanks themselves filled with water. But with this waterfall version, the water should stay on the screen and flow down. This is assuming that you don't fill the box with water, of course; it would need to drain as fast as it comes in. In this case the box is not a tank at all, but just a platform to hold the lights a few inches from the screen. You could even cut out the sides of the box to get more air in.
No-spraybar: This is the idea of just filling and emptying the box, which would indeed give a wet a dry phase to the screen, but also gives us the just-mentioned algea on the walls of the box. I see a further possible drawback too. I read a few times of a possible boundary layer around the algea, where a strong surge helped break through (thus getting more CO2 to the algea.) If true, then the weaker the surge, the less processing you get. With the spraybar, while it's not nearly a "surge", it's still stronger than a "slow fill" of the box. I do realize that raceways work with no surge at all, so somewhere among these tradeoffs, I'll have to decide what give the best processing, the smallest size (really important), the lowest maintenance, and the easiest build. I must say that a simple "fill the box" method is about as easy to build as it gets; it could be tested with a 5 gal bucket with the screen in it, and a light shining down on it. As for a spraybar causing deadzones on the screen, that seems to be just a design problem. With enough flow, or possibly two spraybars (one on each side), and properly drilled holes or slits in the tube, wouldn't it be possible to saturate the screen every time?
Joe: I do like reading but I have a bit too many projects going now to add another. Since this is a hobby I like to be able to just test stuff, as long as it won't kill anything. But why don't you stop over when you are over here... the tank is in my office. By the way I'm considering a seagrass tank with seahorses to be the fuge for the reef.
Raceways: I thought about a raceway (as in the linked pics, or one like Paul B. has), but it seemed to me to lack the air-portion of a surge. I'm sure raceways work, but maybe you need a larger size for a give amount of processing. Also, since they are horizontal by design (and although they fit perfectly with a 4-foot pc bulb), they kinda eliminate any chance of placement below the tank.
Growing in tank: Good to hear of another case of turf keeping to it's own area, and not getting into the tank.
"Vertical Bioreactor": Now that is a cool name! From the pic it looks like he has water running down those sheets of algea.
Growing on box: This just occured to me... How would the turf grow on the inside of the box, when the inside of the box is dry? Remember it's vertical. The horizontal ones, of course, were basically tanks themselves filled with water. But with this waterfall version, the water should stay on the screen and flow down. This is assuming that you don't fill the box with water, of course; it would need to drain as fast as it comes in. In this case the box is not a tank at all, but just a platform to hold the lights a few inches from the screen. You could even cut out the sides of the box to get more air in.
No-spraybar: This is the idea of just filling and emptying the box, which would indeed give a wet a dry phase to the screen, but also gives us the just-mentioned algea on the walls of the box. I see a further possible drawback too. I read a few times of a possible boundary layer around the algea, where a strong surge helped break through (thus getting more CO2 to the algea.) If true, then the weaker the surge, the less processing you get. With the spraybar, while it's not nearly a "surge", it's still stronger than a "slow fill" of the box. I do realize that raceways work with no surge at all, so somewhere among these tradeoffs, I'll have to decide what give the best processing, the smallest size (really important), the lowest maintenance, and the easiest build. I must say that a simple "fill the box" method is about as easy to build as it gets; it could be tested with a 5 gal bucket with the screen in it, and a light shining down on it. As for a spraybar causing deadzones on the screen, that seems to be just a design problem. With enough flow, or possibly two spraybars (one on each side), and properly drilled holes or slits in the tube, wouldn't it be possible to saturate the screen every time?
Joe: I do like reading but I have a bit too many projects going now to add another. Since this is a hobby I like to be able to just test stuff, as long as it won't kill anything. But why don't you stop over when you are over here... the tank is in my office. By the way I'm considering a seagrass tank with seahorses to be the fuge for the reef.
Interesting idea to make a small vertical algae scrubber, that possibly can be used for nano tanks - I looked for this some time ago, and this is next in compactness after Tetratec PF150 Power Filter-based.
Alas, I have no possibility to work with acrylic and no ready made inexpensive suitable containers are available here. And the lights have to be protected from accidental splashes and during the screen removal for a cleaning.
Another thing, I started to develop allergic reaction on touching LR and removing macroalgae from the tank and now am replacing flooring in the room, that suffered from splashes and leaks. And because of this frequently removed for a manual cleaning dripping screen with smelly algae (and it is, I have the hair algae rock in the tank) is not a thing I would like to employ in my practice, as long as I have any other options, not much of them left, though.
As for PM, I really glad to have a possibility to read this thread, especially bergzy's posts, it was very educative for me. Thanks for the input, everybody!
Would you add a couple of comments on dripless cleaning of the screens?
Alas, I have no possibility to work with acrylic and no ready made inexpensive suitable containers are available here. And the lights have to be protected from accidental splashes and during the screen removal for a cleaning.
Another thing, I started to develop allergic reaction on touching LR and removing macroalgae from the tank and now am replacing flooring in the room, that suffered from splashes and leaks. And because of this frequently removed for a manual cleaning dripping screen with smelly algae (and it is, I have the hair algae rock in the tank) is not a thing I would like to employ in my practice, as long as I have any other options, not much of them left, though.
As for PM, I really glad to have a possibility to read this thread, especially bergzy's posts, it was very educative for me. Thanks for the input, everybody!
Would you add a couple of comments on dripless cleaning of the screens?
Flatlander
Premium Member
I cant really say if that style of turf scrubbing would work or not. I would guess any turf screen/ water & air mixture and proper light would grow turf algae.
I only have experience with the dump tray and it worked well for me. I think its a good filtration aid, in many situations. As mine was destroyed in transport, and we rebuilt the unit from glass, its never been the beautiful turf scrubber it was designed to be and to sit on ones aquariums as a showpiece, instead of being behind the scenes as mine was in my fish room.
Running it, I would never worry about ammonia, phosphates, nitrates, etc. The algae only grew on the screen and some in the acrylic dump tray, which was mostly a red slime type.
I always ran a large skimmer with it, so again, used it as supplemental filtration, much like one would use a sump full of algae.
I only have experience with the dump tray and it worked well for me. I think its a good filtration aid, in many situations. As mine was destroyed in transport, and we rebuilt the unit from glass, its never been the beautiful turf scrubber it was designed to be and to sit on ones aquariums as a showpiece, instead of being behind the scenes as mine was in my fish room.
Running it, I would never worry about ammonia, phosphates, nitrates, etc. The algae only grew on the screen and some in the acrylic dump tray, which was mostly a red slime type.
I always ran a large skimmer with it, so again, used it as supplemental filtration, much like one would use a sump full of algae.
pjf
Premium Member
Here are a few suggestions for screens:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2/Tank-Dividers/divider/0
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753067
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1/DIY-Tank-Dividers/divider/0
The screens by Lee's are more pliable and have more holes. The screens by Penn-Plax are stiffer. Give the idea a try and let us know how it turns out.
Good luck!
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2/Tank-Dividers/divider/0
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753067
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1/DIY-Tank-Dividers/divider/0
The screens by Lee's are more pliable and have more holes. The screens by Penn-Plax are stiffer. Give the idea a try and let us know how it turns out.
Good luck!
a ats is a much easyer way to matain a reef tank than skimmers and the rest of the stuff, i run a calcum reactor and a chiller with my ats, the most important thing is to grow and harvest the algae, its that simple. people run into problems when they dont follow those two simple things, i harvest a cup of algae a week, and I recommend using 5100k compact fluorescent light bulbs, they use very low watt consumption and have high watt output.
piercho
New member
I think you are on the right track, and I think running a thin film of water over a vertical growing zone will be effective. On my last algae turf filter I also avoided the effort to "flash" the turf by making the screen move/rotate. IMO it's easy to focus just on that mechanical aspect and loose sight of the more fundamental parameters of Adey's turf filter: exclusion of microherbivores, optimal gas exchange, etc. I was able to flash that filter by surging the main tank, which caused the water flow to the filter tank to surge as well.
I also have sketches for a vertical algae filter but have not prototyped one. As far as an algae growth surface I've considered the porous side (backside) of plain fired tile, or fiber-reinforce concrete board (backer board) for applications like the one you show. You could also just use thick acrylic and run coarse sandpaper over the surface to rough it up so that the algae can attach well and not be completely scrapped off when harvesting. I was using a PFO mini-pendant with a 6500K Venture 150W DE (M81) on my last algae filter and liked the small size, intensity, and tight light footprint of that setup.
My concern with your design would be salt spray rapidly clouding the surfaces that the light must penetrate. In my own efforts to make turf algae filters work, the spray (even from bursting microbubbles 6" away) that can rapidly degrade the light source has been the biggest obstacle I've have to overcome.
If you can bring this thing to execution I think a lot of people would be interested in the results. In well-executed applications I think that algae turf filters have a lot to offer for reef tank husbandry.
I also have sketches for a vertical algae filter but have not prototyped one. As far as an algae growth surface I've considered the porous side (backside) of plain fired tile, or fiber-reinforce concrete board (backer board) for applications like the one you show. You could also just use thick acrylic and run coarse sandpaper over the surface to rough it up so that the algae can attach well and not be completely scrapped off when harvesting. I was using a PFO mini-pendant with a 6500K Venture 150W DE (M81) on my last algae filter and liked the small size, intensity, and tight light footprint of that setup.
My concern with your design would be salt spray rapidly clouding the surfaces that the light must penetrate. In my own efforts to make turf algae filters work, the spray (even from bursting microbubbles 6" away) that can rapidly degrade the light source has been the biggest obstacle I've have to overcome.
If you can bring this thing to execution I think a lot of people would be interested in the results. In well-executed applications I think that algae turf filters have a lot to offer for reef tank husbandry.
I have to agree with all the previous posts, your design with the spraybar just won't work. I experiments a lot with ATS and unless it's just right, it will grow every other type of algae and just be a mess.
I have kinda slacked off in this hobby over the years, but I always wanted to try an ATS with a small magnet... the water fills up a box/tray and the magnet holds the flap closed. Once the water gets high enough, the magnet wouldn't be strong enough to hold the flap and it would open, the water would rush out and the flap would close and the magnet would grab. Never tried it, but don't see why it wouldn't work. Good luck.
Nick
I have kinda slacked off in this hobby over the years, but I always wanted to try an ATS with a small magnet... the water fills up a box/tray and the magnet holds the flap closed. Once the water gets high enough, the magnet wouldn't be strong enough to hold the flap and it would open, the water would rush out and the flap would close and the magnet would grab. Never tried it, but don't see why it wouldn't work. Good luck.
Nick
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Nano sized: I bet a tiny version could be made for a nano. If the one-square-inch-per-gal rule works, you would only need a few inches square; could fit it into a plastic box that some retail products come in, and would be even smaller than the Tetratec. I looked up the Tetratec PF150 Power Filter: "Tetratec Power Filters have the Living Filter Chamber which alternately fills and drains completely, submerging the three-dimensional Bio Foam media and then exposing it to oxygen-rich air. This allows increased contact time between the beneficial bacteria and the toxins in the water, ultimately resulting in healthy, biologically balanced water." Maybe the fill-drain mechanism from it could be used, although the reviews I saw said it was very noisy.
Boxes: I did a quick search and found several cheap $5 nano-sized boxes here on the web, but I found every size imaginable (although more expensive) here: www.ClearAcrylicBox.com
Odor: This has been mentioned a few times, so I'll have to predict since I have not done it yet. Obviously the objective of the unit is for it to process as much water as possible, but this also means it's "processing" as much air as possible. If what it does to the air is expel odor, the the "closed box" option seems to be the only choice. I personally want mine under the tank in the cabinet; the cabinet currently has no problem containing the skimmer odor, which you clearly find once you open the cabinet door. But you can't seal the turf box closed, because you need the air in there. And adding complex carbon attachments/filters/mufflers seems overkill. So this area will probably just have to be tried case-by-case.
Cleaning: The super small screen size (that seems will be adequate for my 100 gal) should be no problem to remove; it's smaller that a piece of paper. And for a nano, it could be as little as a cell phone. Thus it does not seem too difficult to just lift it out and clean it (maybe hold a cup underneath it while you walk to the sink, like I do with filter socks.) On further thought though, you could just lift out the whole box... just detach the lights somehow. Maybe the lights don't even need to be attached, they could just be leaning against the box. Indeed, if you put the box in a 5 gal bucket, and set the lights down in the bucket on both sides of the box, they would all be contained close to each other. To lift the box out you just move the spraybar(s) and put your finger over the drainhole.
Use with skimmer: This is one of the big and long-term questions. I read posts going back to 2000, and some users removed their skimmers, and some did not. My understanding is that skimmers remove organics and small particles (which includes phyto, pods, and other food unfortunately), and turf removes inorganics (N,P, and metals too I think). Unless you are running a big fish-only tank where you want to get the waste swept up and skimmed as quick as possible (and where excess N and P are not a problem), I would think that a filter that removed N and P, while leaving all food in the water, would be prefered. That way food stays in the water until it is eaten, or untill it decays (which gives it more time to be eaten.) But my current goal is just to get one running (with skimmer), and deal with this issue later.
Screens: Those screens you linked are a good idea; I was not aware of tank dividers like that. They even have the "frame" around them to hold them in place.
ATSmann: With a name like that, you must be the one to talk to about these things. By the way, why does it say "moved on" for you, when you are here posting? Anyways, great to see your account of using turf with no water-tinting problems. You say the most important thing is to harvest the turf; are you saying that not harvesting often enough will cause tinting? Obviously you have to harvest to remove nutrients, and I read that growth slows down as the turf thickens. Maybe as the newer turf grows, the older turf underneath starts to die or detach, causing tinting. And it sounds like you are running yours without skimmer, correct? If so do you ever use carbon?
Exclusion of microherbivores: I read this a few times too; pods and such eating the turf. However maybe the vertical screen would reduce their numbers with each wetting, since they'd be flowing down with gravity. If not, a standard freshwater flush during scraping seems to work.
Salt spray: Wow, this one proved to be difficult, especially since piercho says it's the biggest obstacle he had. Got a possible solution from the way some goggles work for off-road racers: peel-away strips. But in our case, I think plastic food wrap is better:
You remove the cutter from the wrap box, and glue it onto the bottom of the filter box. Also in this case, the bottom of the box is open, or at least slots are cut to allow the wrap to exit the bottom (so obviously this is for above-sump only). Either way, you don't need the drain hole anymore:
Now, since the wrap is on the INSIDE of the box, and the light on the outside, the roll of wrap can just sit on the light. To clean salt spray, just pull down the plastic wrap and cut off with the serrated edge:
However, since you were truly surging, you obviously had lots of bubbles and thus more salt spray. I'm hoping that by having the water just flow down, the spray would be reduced enough to be able to just manually clean it once in a while. But if implemented, the plastic wrap would indeed keep it clean.
Magnet flap method: That's an interesting way of filling/draining. Would still need a pump though, unless taken from the overflow. However it gets into the same question of: is it enough surge to be effective, compared to a waterfall. It's just filling up and draining slowly.
Spraybar design: Maybe "spraybar" is not the right word; I'm envisioning a lot of water coming through the tube, like a powerhead. Not really a spray. Maybe like 200 gph. Would be a tradeoff between enough water, and blowing off the plastic wrap (if used).
Speaking of flow and pumps, does anyone have recommendations of a pump of this size that can be switched on and off?
Boxes: I did a quick search and found several cheap $5 nano-sized boxes here on the web, but I found every size imaginable (although more expensive) here: www.ClearAcrylicBox.com
Odor: This has been mentioned a few times, so I'll have to predict since I have not done it yet. Obviously the objective of the unit is for it to process as much water as possible, but this also means it's "processing" as much air as possible. If what it does to the air is expel odor, the the "closed box" option seems to be the only choice. I personally want mine under the tank in the cabinet; the cabinet currently has no problem containing the skimmer odor, which you clearly find once you open the cabinet door. But you can't seal the turf box closed, because you need the air in there. And adding complex carbon attachments/filters/mufflers seems overkill. So this area will probably just have to be tried case-by-case.
Cleaning: The super small screen size (that seems will be adequate for my 100 gal) should be no problem to remove; it's smaller that a piece of paper. And for a nano, it could be as little as a cell phone. Thus it does not seem too difficult to just lift it out and clean it (maybe hold a cup underneath it while you walk to the sink, like I do with filter socks.) On further thought though, you could just lift out the whole box... just detach the lights somehow. Maybe the lights don't even need to be attached, they could just be leaning against the box. Indeed, if you put the box in a 5 gal bucket, and set the lights down in the bucket on both sides of the box, they would all be contained close to each other. To lift the box out you just move the spraybar(s) and put your finger over the drainhole.
Use with skimmer: This is one of the big and long-term questions. I read posts going back to 2000, and some users removed their skimmers, and some did not. My understanding is that skimmers remove organics and small particles (which includes phyto, pods, and other food unfortunately), and turf removes inorganics (N,P, and metals too I think). Unless you are running a big fish-only tank where you want to get the waste swept up and skimmed as quick as possible (and where excess N and P are not a problem), I would think that a filter that removed N and P, while leaving all food in the water, would be prefered. That way food stays in the water until it is eaten, or untill it decays (which gives it more time to be eaten.) But my current goal is just to get one running (with skimmer), and deal with this issue later.
Screens: Those screens you linked are a good idea; I was not aware of tank dividers like that. They even have the "frame" around them to hold them in place.
ATSmann: With a name like that, you must be the one to talk to about these things. By the way, why does it say "moved on" for you, when you are here posting? Anyways, great to see your account of using turf with no water-tinting problems. You say the most important thing is to harvest the turf; are you saying that not harvesting often enough will cause tinting? Obviously you have to harvest to remove nutrients, and I read that growth slows down as the turf thickens. Maybe as the newer turf grows, the older turf underneath starts to die or detach, causing tinting. And it sounds like you are running yours without skimmer, correct? If so do you ever use carbon?
Exclusion of microherbivores: I read this a few times too; pods and such eating the turf. However maybe the vertical screen would reduce their numbers with each wetting, since they'd be flowing down with gravity. If not, a standard freshwater flush during scraping seems to work.
Salt spray: Wow, this one proved to be difficult, especially since piercho says it's the biggest obstacle he had. Got a possible solution from the way some goggles work for off-road racers: peel-away strips. But in our case, I think plastic food wrap is better:
You remove the cutter from the wrap box, and glue it onto the bottom of the filter box. Also in this case, the bottom of the box is open, or at least slots are cut to allow the wrap to exit the bottom (so obviously this is for above-sump only). Either way, you don't need the drain hole anymore:
Now, since the wrap is on the INSIDE of the box, and the light on the outside, the roll of wrap can just sit on the light. To clean salt spray, just pull down the plastic wrap and cut off with the serrated edge:
However, since you were truly surging, you obviously had lots of bubbles and thus more salt spray. I'm hoping that by having the water just flow down, the spray would be reduced enough to be able to just manually clean it once in a while. But if implemented, the plastic wrap would indeed keep it clean.
Magnet flap method: That's an interesting way of filling/draining. Would still need a pump though, unless taken from the overflow. However it gets into the same question of: is it enough surge to be effective, compared to a waterfall. It's just filling up and draining slowly.
Spraybar design: Maybe "spraybar" is not the right word; I'm envisioning a lot of water coming through the tube, like a powerhead. Not really a spray. Maybe like 200 gph. Would be a tradeoff between enough water, and blowing off the plastic wrap (if used).
Speaking of flow and pumps, does anyone have recommendations of a pump of this size that can be switched on and off?
For the screen could'nt you use the same kind of screen that you find on a screen door?
From your design I think getting it to work from both side might complicate it, you might be better off adding some angle to it and lighting it from one side. The reason I say this is that you might be able to work out initial kinks in the overall design this way, it would be easier to set up the plumbing as well.
Look forward to seeing your results and whatever pictures anyone can put forward.
Thanks
From your design I think getting it to work from both side might complicate it, you might be better off adding some angle to it and lighting it from one side. The reason I say this is that you might be able to work out initial kinks in the overall design this way, it would be easier to set up the plumbing as well.
Look forward to seeing your results and whatever pictures anyone can put forward.
Thanks
.
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Yes I believe you can use fiberglass window screen, but you then need a frame for it. Might be easier to use a rigid screen like those linked earlier, or the pre-seeded ones from IA.
Not sure how an angle would be easier... you still need good controlled flow coming from the spraybar, and that seems the tricky part. I was just thinking about those tabletop ornamental waterfalls that flow down a sheet of glass; maybe I can use the spraybar from one of those.
Not sure how an angle would be easier... you still need good controlled flow coming from the spraybar, and that seems the tricky part. I was just thinking about those tabletop ornamental waterfalls that flow down a sheet of glass; maybe I can use the spraybar from one of those.
jglackin
New member
There are two types of ATS units that I have considered, other than the type I have now.
One is the Inland Aquatics version, which mounts on top of the tank and has the turf growing on screens that are on a hinge. The water fills up until a certain point that the weight of the water causes the screen to tilt forward and dump. I like this because it not only gives you an effective way to grow your turf algae, but it also gives you a good surge device that dumps pods and bits of edible algae into the tank.
The other is a basic surge device, using a glass or Plexiglass tank (40 breeder?) that uses a float mechanism like a toilet does. The turf screen lays diagonal from the bottom corner to the top corner of the tank and the water fills the tank from a pump in the sump. When the level gets to a certain point, the water dumps from the holding tank into the tank below. This also creates a surge like the IA version above. It is simple and quiet.
The type I have now (pictured below) was made by a company that no longer makes them. It lays flat over my sump and fuge and water flows in one side, goes over some turbulence causing baffles and then empties out the other side. Two lights sit on top of the unit. It works off of the gravity of my drain and requires no mechanical parts. Simple, quiet, and effective.
One is the Inland Aquatics version, which mounts on top of the tank and has the turf growing on screens that are on a hinge. The water fills up until a certain point that the weight of the water causes the screen to tilt forward and dump. I like this because it not only gives you an effective way to grow your turf algae, but it also gives you a good surge device that dumps pods and bits of edible algae into the tank.
The other is a basic surge device, using a glass or Plexiglass tank (40 breeder?) that uses a float mechanism like a toilet does. The turf screen lays diagonal from the bottom corner to the top corner of the tank and the water fills the tank from a pump in the sump. When the level gets to a certain point, the water dumps from the holding tank into the tank below. This also creates a surge like the IA version above. It is simple and quiet.
The type I have now (pictured below) was made by a company that no longer makes them. It lays flat over my sump and fuge and water flows in one side, goes over some turbulence causing baffles and then empties out the other side. Two lights sit on top of the unit. It works off of the gravity of my drain and requires no mechanical parts. Simple, quiet, and effective.
SantaMonica
Well-known member
I wish they were available too. Other than the eco wheel, I could not find any units to buy anywhere, much less something about the size of a book.
I'm going to start working on a spraybar (maybe "water outlet" is a better term).
I'm going to start working on a spraybar (maybe "water outlet" is a better term).
Flatlander
Premium Member
There are pics of mine in my gallery. But I assume you have read most of the ATS threads and already seen them but if not, they are still there.
SantaMonica
Well-known member
Well the screen material seems to not be a problem (yet). I actually am trying to order the pre-seeded one from IA but can't figure out how to place the order with them.
After thinking about the spraybar today, I got the idea of making it like the kind of perforated tube used underground in gardens and septic tanks. Also, if a slit is placed along the bottom of the tube, the screen can fit right up into it, and thus it would also hold the screen in place along the top, eliminating the need to additional supports.
I'm going to do a test in a 5 gal bucket, using perforated tube (probably just drilled pvc), and two 5100k cfl lights clipped on to both sides of the bucket. I just need to get a timer that can be set down to 1 second intervals.
After thinking about the spraybar today, I got the idea of making it like the kind of perforated tube used underground in gardens and septic tanks. Also, if a slit is placed along the bottom of the tube, the screen can fit right up into it, and thus it would also hold the screen in place along the top, eliminating the need to additional supports.
I'm going to do a test in a 5 gal bucket, using perforated tube (probably just drilled pvc), and two 5100k cfl lights clipped on to both sides of the bucket. I just need to get a timer that can be set down to 1 second intervals.
