gaberosenfield
New member
30 gallons of month old skimmate at that!
I'd like to give this a go. I have a floor drain available, just need to connect up some tubing to drain the skimmer to it.
Am I correct that if I do this, then set the skimmer to run wet, and put 1.026 saltwater in the ATO, I'm going the right direction? I would also need to set up RODI for evaporation makeup, or set the ATO water to a lower salinity to compensate. Of course I will monitor salinity daily via refractometer and compensate for any swings.
I'd like to give this a go. I have a floor drain available, just need to connect up some tubing to drain the skimmer to it.
Am I correct that if I do this, then set the skimmer to run wet, and put 1.026 saltwater in the ATO, I'm going the right direction? I would also need to set up RODI for evaporation makeup, or set the ATO water to a lower salinity to compensate. Of course I will monitor salinity daily via refractometer and compensate for any swings.
Using periodic wet skim water changes, some folks remarked at the aggrivation of resetting the skimmer back at the prior level for dry skimming. I have-first had experience that this can be a bit aggrivating at times. Once I set my skimmer to what I thought was appropriate and woke up the next morning with my skimmate reservoir full and water overflowing. I learned the hard way that it is never a good idea to set the skimmer without having time to observe it for a few hours.
Has anyone ever tried putting markings on gate valves to help reset the skimmer to prior, dry-skimming levels in order to reduce the guess-work? I am thinking of trying this. I doubt that it will be very precise, yet it should help.
Agree getting skimmer reset after an over organic event is a PITA. It applies to wet skimming as well as dry....slightly off topic but you refer to marking a gate valve . I would love that but for my main drain control valve..I have tried every type I can find on the Australian market and cannot find one worth marking because the operating range on them is so narrow that my overflow chamber can be altered from empty to full by tapping on a wing of the ball valve. Surely a finely controlled wheel operated ball or gate valve can be had somewhere in PVC. I have tried blade valves from USA...looked good..still no controllability.
I have actually found a way to do this really well and that is by building a branch off the main drain with a small cheap ball valve in it say 1/2" ...and get the flow right with the main branch and then fine tune with the trim valve. It works really well if you can be bothered with the 30 mins plumbing.
So to get back on topic our standard ball valves/gate valves tend to operate in too small an area to be worth marking...they are really intended for full on full off use.
How will you correct for evaporation? The system will drift towards the input water's salinity, but not without some lag. You would need to top off an estimated amount, slightly lower your replacement water salinity, or rely on salinity measurements to make corrections.