What a let down from Koralia

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12327779#post12327779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by k9asia
can the koralia 4 work on 3/4 inch acrylic? The vortech has problems with acrylic and overheating and causing it to crak, any one using these on 3/4"
I don't have any personal experience with this problem, but I'd think the Koralia would be less of an issue. The Vortech consumes more power at a max of 40W (i.e. generates more heat) and also, from what I understand, essentially has the motor pressed right up against the glass/acrylic. The Koralia 4, on the other hand, pulls a maximum of 13W and the motor is a few inches away from the glass with water constantly flowing around it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12327779#post12327779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by k9asia
can the koralia 4 work on 3/4 inch acrylic? The vortech has problems with acrylic and overheating and causing it to crak, any one using these on 3/4"

Not sure if they will work or 3/4 glass but I am certain they work oh half inch glass.
 
On 1/2 glass I remove the suction cups/rubber cover and just put the magnets against the glass to get a little more holding power(not sure your supposed to remove the suction cups though?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12328128#post12328128 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by xxxbadfishxxx
Might as well get a Reefkeeper II and a bunch of maxijets with mods. Will be a lot cheaper, can run three pumps and also have the functionality of the controller.

Yeah that was what I was going to do but the MJ Mods create sandstorms in my tank and are way too much flow for the LPS on the bottom of my tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12327779#post12327779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by k9asia
can the koralia 4 work on 3/4 inch acrylic? The vortech has problems with acrylic and overheating and causing it to crak, any one using these on 3/4"


that should not be a problem - I have two on 3/4" glass, with no issues. Been there a year and never fell.

I also have two mounted ot my overflows (with the back magnet inside the overflow)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12330809#post12330809 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by k9asia
any one using them with 3/4 inch acrylic?

No, but they don't feel particularly secure on my 1/2" acrylic, so I'm not sure they'd do real well on 3/4. Wouldn't be the same issues as the vortech -- that's a heat transfer issue. It would be magnet strength issue. They aren't super strong like the tunzes -- at least, the first generation hydors that I have aren't.

EDIT -- I defer to the post right above mine. Probably shouldn't have even weighed in since I don't have personal experience.
 
Lark

you have a point though

mine don't feel secure either, I had my doubts, but they seem to be doing fine. I guess between the suction cup and light weight magnet, it's enough. Mine are pointed pretty straight out so the force is directed back, if they were at a large angle it may be a totally different story.
 
I have one of the new Koralia 4's on 5/8" glass and the suction cup actually seems to form an extremely strong grip--much more so than the old Koralia 3's I have. I went to remove it yesterday and I wasn't able to just pull it off; I had to stick my fingernail under the suction cup to release it. Of course, suction cups tend to stiffen/weaken with time, so I can't say how well it would hold in the long term.
 
The vortech has problems with acrylic and overheating and causing it to crak, any one using these on 3/4"

I'd recommend that you check out the ecotech forum on RC. This information is not correct. I have a friend that is using vortechs on 3/4 acrylic without a problem.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12326649#post12326649 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by renisel
It will be powered by a 24V DC power supply. A 555 timer with single-rotation pots controlling the durations of high and low speed controls a DPDT relay. That relay switches between two resistor values on a Wien bridge oscillator built around a high-current-output op-amp. Modifying it to control more powerheads would just require replication of the circuit if you want them independently controlled, or simply hooking up another outlet to the end of the circuit if you want them synchronized.

Cool. Couldn't you just invert the signal off the 555 and drive a second oscillator and amp off that? That way you'd get a nice push-pull without duplicating the digital side of your driver...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12335969#post12335969 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hyperfocal
Cool. Couldn't you just invert the signal off the 555 and drive a second oscillator and amp off that? That way you'd get a nice push-pull without duplicating the digital side of your driver...
Yeah, that would be one way to do it. Personally, I'd prefer to have them entirely independent rather than simply alternating. That would produce a more chaotic flow pattern.
 
That's what I'm doing right now with my two Singlecontrollerized Tunze Nanostreams; they're slightly out of sync so they churn things up quite nicely. I'm expecting that the AquaSurf (Tunze/ACjr interface) I ordered will arrive soon... once it does, I look forward to trying the Resonant Wave Mode (0.8s cycle time for my 4' tank).

It might be worth picking your RC values so you can oscillate that fast, just to experiment if nothing else.
 
Putting them slightly out of sync was exactly what I had in mind, too. Not to get too far off topic, but what exactly is the purpose of the "Resonant Wave Mode"? Is it supposed to accomplish something like this ?
 
Back
Top