What can you put on BB, if starboard is N/A

kevensquint

Active member
I live in montreal and there is no place (that I can find) that sells costom sized starboard around here. Online is not a possibilty, so what can I use instead?, I am sure someone has had success with another material.
 
You can use nothing if you want.
Or you can go to Wal Mart (or applicable store) and buy cutting boards to use. Sizing them yourself.
Or Lexan, acrylic will work (though I don't recommend this as they tend to bow and let detritus in).

hth,
Sean
 
Well, I'd like to put something to protect from LR avalanches. If I siliconed lexan to the glass, would'nt that keep it from letting crap under?
 
Hi Kevin,

I know someone who got his from a butcher shop in Laval, they have huge sheets and can cut to your liking...

Stick around I will try to get you the address either tonight or tomorrow, pm me so i don't forget...
 
Do you have a plastics supplier in town? They should have some...ask for HDPE (high density polyethylene) or cutting board material.
 
I know a guy that has a couple flat slabs of rock that were cut to fit, looks a lot more natural and is still BB.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6487462#post6487462 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wallygator
I don't do BB but what about mouse pads??:idea:

They are nice and soft but I think they float...
 
I use commerical cutting boards.

Yes, they float. But, then so does starboard. LR works good for holding them in place.
 
"starboard" is a brand name...I know it comes in 1/2" and 3/4", not sure about other thicknesses. Generic HDPE comes in various thicknesses...
 
1/2-3/4" thick, holy crap! I was imagining 1/8-1/4", what do you do around the edge where it meets the tanks silicone seal, cut in 1/4". I would imagine that it would'nt be good over the long term to have the sharp edge of the board pushing right into the tanks seal.
 
Where the starboard meets the silicone i used a roundover bit in my router on the bottom side of the board so it doesn't touch the silicone edges of the tank, then sealed it again around the edges with more silicone. you should leave at least a 1/8" space all the way around for exspansion.
 
The cutting boards I used were from Sam's Club; ~$10 for a 1/2" x 15" x 20" Rubbermaid commercial cutting boards. When I bought mine, they had white, red and green boards available.
 
I just got an 11" x 29" board from cuttingboardcompany.com for my 20L for $23. I couldn't go the full 12" x 30" due to my manifold at the top of the tank. I really like it. Great board.
 
I got mine from a plastics company down the road for cheap. Sold me a big sheet of scrap (it wasn't a full 4x8) but like 10 bucks. If I had an acrylic tank I wouldn't use anything. I have glass and am concerned about rock falls or pressure points.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6489913#post6489913 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ceak
To me a faux sand bed on starboard is the nicest look...

there is some (though unfortunatly not as much as Id like) evidence that the faux sandbed might not be a great idea. the rough surface traps the crud from being carried away and from what I saw could be the cause of nasty algea blooms.

but all in all of the many people that reported trying it, Ive seen very few follow ups. perhaps the rare followup is because the rest had no problems. in which case, the problems would be exagerated. hard to tell though.

bottom line, I think as of now, a permanent faux sand bed would be a risky move. and as starboard is the most common base to make a removable faux sand bed out of... the question comes full circle again.
 
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