What to do with Green Hair Algae?

I would read up on the leroxide dosimg before using it. It works great but an overdose can be hard on corals and some incerts like shrimp. But spot treatment is very safe.

Here is an conservative approach. Measure 2-3ml 3% peroxide per 10 gallions of tank water volume. Add the same amount of RODI water. (1:1 ratio). Remove rock & administer the solution by eye dropper or small brush. Do your best to avoid coral tissue. Wait about 3 minutes. Swish the rock around in a bucket of salt water from your water change. Back in the tank. It will bellman rear deal if you can scrub & abrade the algae patches with the stiffest new plastic brush you can find.

Directions for full tank treatment & rock soaking are different. The peroxide will dissipate quickly & completely as its only hydrogen & oxygen but it is an oxidizer so you must not ober do it. I'd go slow on one rock and see how it goes and treat the rest the next day just to be ultra conservative.
 
I have not seen any mention of a refugium growing macro algae. Would this not be a viable solution to OP's issue? I'm all about reducing the amount of chemicals I put in my tank and I've always preferred a fuge for nutrient control over any chemicals.
 
It's good that you were able to remove the most affected rocks, it's so much harder when it is all tangled up in your favorite coral :(

When I see algae concentrated in a certain place like that I think those rocks have absorbed more phos from the water. This can happen b/c they are harder to clean or get less flow so detritus settled there, or they came from a diff enviro, whatev. If that is your case, I would think that even after peroxide kills the algae they will remain well-fertilized for a repeat outbreak. Just like a pot of dirt with a bunch of miracl-gro in it if you yanked out the plant by its roots but threw a bunch of seeds on right after. Not long before its back.
This is also a problem for GFO or a fuge because if the algae is pulling right out of the rock, the phos never makes it to the reactor. I think that's why you see this sort of issue even when the water tests low nutrients. Here it's a pot of miracle-gro dirt with sterile air all around it. Not long before its back.

Since you have the rocks out already, and you don't miss them, you might think about cooking them. Once they are cleaned out you could even keep as like a rotation, and if another rock gets hairy swap them out.
 
I have not seen any mention of a refugium growing macro algae. Would this not be a viable solution to OP's issue? I'm all about reducing the amount of chemicals I put in my tank and I've always preferred a fuge for nutrient control over any chemicals.

Refugiums are great. But I think the OP wanted to eradicate what he has growing and keep it that way. The fuge may keep nutrients low but that won't kill algae that's eatablished - at least in a reasonable time frame.
 
Post #44:

I have a theory that detrius laying on rocks for long periods of time fuels algae growth by being so close to where the algaes rhizoids are located and may allow PO4 to "soak in" if left to build up over time. I think blowing off the rocks with a baster or small limp and then catching it in floss or a sock is very beneficial to tank maintenence.

No need to over do this however. Some pods may get caught up in the storm - Maybe I'll check that out under my microscope if I think about it.
 
It's good that you were able to remove the most affected rocks, it's so much harder when it is all tangled up in your favorite coral :(

When I see algae concentrated in a certain place like that I think those rocks have absorbed more phos from the water. This can happen b/c they are harder to clean or get less flow so detritus settled there, or they came from a diff enviro, whatev. If that is your case, I would think that even after peroxide kills the algae they will remain well-fertilized for a repeat outbreak. Just like a pot of dirt with a bunch of miracl-gro in it if you yanked out the plant by its roots but threw a bunch of seeds on right after. Not long before its back.
This is also a problem for GFO or a fuge because if the algae is pulling right out of the rock, the phos never makes it to the reactor. I think that's why you see this sort of issue even when the water tests low nutrients. Here it's a pot of miracle-gro dirt with sterile air all around it. Not long before its back.

Since you have the rocks out already, and you don't miss them, you might think about cooking them. Once they are cleaned out you could even keep as like a rotation, and if another rock gets hairy swap them out.

Hi,
This is interesting and makes sense to me. That rock in the center of my tank that had most of the algae growing on it was a bit low in my tank and was also shaped a bit like a bowl and I am sure that the flow down next to that rock was not as good as other places. And then since it was lower in the tank, it was a settling spot for detritus and uneaten food. So your theory of the algae food being in the rocks seems logical. And then I do have some other rocks that have algae growing off of them and they are very near other rocks that are very clean.

So let me ask this - How much of my current rock could I safely swap out for new rock and not be worried about disrupting the biological filtration? I may end up pulling out a good chunk of my current rock and then re-scaping, cleaning my sand bed in areas that have previously been out of reach, and see if this helps.

Thanks again.

Post #44:

I have a theory that detrius laying on rocks for long periods of time fuels algae growth by being so close to where the algaes rhizoids are located and may allow PO4 to "soak in" if left to build up over time. I think blowing off the rocks with a baster or small limp and then catching it in floss or a sock is very beneficial to tank maintenence.

No need to over do this however. Some pods may get caught up in the storm - Maybe I'll check that out under my microscope if I think about it.

Yes, this is the same point and I think this may be my issue. Thanks for your comments.
 
So let me ask this - How much of my current rock could I safely swap out for new rock and not be worried about disrupting the biological filtration? I may end up pulling out a good chunk of my current rock and then re-scaping, cleaning my sand bed in areas that have previously been out of reach, and see if this helps.

There are a LOT of opinions about how much live rock you actually need to sustain your bacteria population, its kind of up to you.

To be clear, I didn't mean brand new rock, just cleaning the extra nutrients out of the hairy stuff by keeping it in warm water in the dark for a few months. Some people even do that with new rock before they use it, the idea being that it comes in nutrient laden and that contributes to the algae blooms early in the tank's life. This has the benefit of keeping the biofilter alive so what you add back its good to go. Any worms or cleaners that fall out can be returned to the tank.

Imo, the worst 1/8-1/4 of your rock wouldn't hurt you, specially since you were thinking about removing some anyway. You could go slow too, start the ones you have out already, and then in a week or two pull a couple more. Then when you see that the biofilter is slowing down on cleaning the rocks and there are not huge piles of dirt at the bottom of the bucket when you change the water, just swap those rocks out for any that got hairy in the meantime. If you rescape so that there are not so many hard to clean areas, and get good at blowing off the rocks with a baster, together with a GFO or fuge keeping the water nutrients where you want them, after a few rounds of cooking I would expect things to be on track. The algae will probably migrate around for a while to the most fertile areas, and then give up when it runs out of comfortable real estate.

If you wanted to use algaefix and stuff in the meantime I wouldn't blame you, but I like to watch the algae starve and die. :uzi:
 
This worked for me on a patch of turf algae a few years ago.

Nothing worked. Peroxide?...zilch. Scrubbing with a metal brush? Didn't work. I was considering radical methids: propane torch, metal wire brush on a power drill, chipping it off entirely & disfiguring the rock, near-by corala be dammned.

The stuff is the worst but at least mine was slow growing.. But I wanted it OUT.

Luckily, I stumbled on a good thread. I smeared a large amount of reef putty over the patch, a 1/4 to 1/2" layer thick, about 2 tubes worth. I pressed it in making it conform directly to the area and let it harden. You could say it was like a clay cap on a part of the rock. The idea was to smother & light-starve this, the worst of all algae pests you can have IMO. The problem was it wouldn't stay seated in place as my pumps blew it off. Super glue only worked so long. I epoxied & glued some of those big glass pebbles shaped like river stones that was made from the same glass kid's glass marbles are made of. It looked kind of goofy but it kept the cap in place. I took it off too soon and saw the algae coming back. I scrubbed that area again, did a peroxide treatment and put the cap on again for quite a long time. I eventually got rid of the patch permanently but it took a while. A hard earned victory but a PIA.

I bring this long & tedious story here as it looks like the OP's algae is concentrated in specific areas, not all over everywhere. (BTW his algae is not the brown turf variety I had) But it is another option that may be worth consideration as long as he doesn't mind buying a lot of putty and wait a while.
 
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I don't have much advice to add, but if you aren't manually pulling off as much as you can daily, add that to your repertoire. There is no magic fix IMO to GHA, just continued good husbandry and nutrient export and/or limiting nutrients. Pulling it out of there is strangely addicting and exports all those nutrients that you pull out. If you are going to scrub at it, do not do it in the tank. You're not removing it, just spreading it around.

regarding your issue that led up to this - the corals not doing well. 6 hrs full light with what I think is 3 hrs total dusk/dawn (I assume this means dimmer lighting?) does not seem like a lot to me. I wonder if you left your lights on longer if your corals would do better and not need the added nutrient sources. Just a thought, since it's what led to you to this place of algae :) I wouldn't change it now while you're still fighting the GHA but something to consider.
 
I don't have much advice to add, but if you aren't manually pulling off as much as you can daily, add that to your repertoire. There is no magic fix IMO to GHA, just continued good husbandry and nutrient export and/or limiting nutrients. Pulling it out of there is strangely addicting and exports all those nutrients that you pull out. If you are going to scrub at it, do not do it in the tank. You're not removing it, just spreading it around.

regarding your issue that led up to this - the corals not doing well. 6 hrs full light with what I think is 3 hrs total dusk/dawn (I assume this means dimmer lighting?) does not seem like a lot to me. I wonder if you left your lights on longer if your corals would do better and not need the added nutrient sources. Just a thought, since it's what led to you to this place of algae :) I wouldn't change it now while you're still fighting the GHA but something to consider.

This is a good thought, thanks. And yes, 1.5 hours in the morning of LED blue light ramp, then 6 hours of T5 at max along with LED at about 40%, then 1.5 hours of LED ramp down. Most of the dawn/dusk lighting is pretty low level. It's really just for viewing with blue LEDs.

Thanks again.
 
I'm late to tell you to not remove the rocks; periphyton is now dead, and will take a year to re-grow. But this still might be of interest.

Your original problem is similar to most people's: the rock has accumulated phosphate for 12 to 24 months, because the previous export was not enough. During the first 12 to 24 months of many tanks, it may seem that your filters etc are "working", but that's because your rock is doing the absorbing for you. In 12 to 24 month, they fill up, then you have what you have now.

Phosphate flow out of rocks

Many people, when they get their nutrients low for the first time, get worried when more (not less) algae starts to grow on their rocks. It seems really strange, especially when nitrate and phosphate have gone lower than before. What is happening is that phosphate is coming out of the rocks. Remember, phosphate is invisible, so you can only see the effects of it, and it always "flows" from higher concentrations to lower concentrations (just like heat does).

Example: If your room is warm, and you put a cold object on the floor, heat from the air in the room will "flow" into the object until the object and the air are the same temperature. Example 2: If you put a hot object on the floor, heat will "flow" out of the object and go into the air in the room, again, until the air and the object are the same temperature. Now suppose you open your windows (in the winter). The warm air in your room will go out the windows, and it will get colder in the room. The object on the floor is now warmer than the air, so heat will flow out of the object and into the air, and then out the window.

Think of phosphate as the heat, and your rocks as the object, and your windows as the scrubber. As the scrubber pulls phosphate out of the water, the phosphate level in the water drops. Now, since the phosphate level in the water is lower than the phosphate level in the rocks, phosphate flows from the rocks into the water, and then from the water into the scrubber. This continues until the phosphate levels in the rocks and water are level again. And remember, you can't see this invisible flow.

This flow causes an interesting thing to happen. As the phosphate comes out of the rocks, it then becomes available to feed algae as soon as the phosphate reaches the surface of the rocks where there is light. So, since the surface of the rocks is rough and has light, it starts growing MORE algae there (not less) as the phosphate comes out of the rocks. This is a pretty amazing thing to see for the first time, because if you did not know what was happening you would probably think that the algae was mysteriously being added to your tank. Here are the signs of phosphate coming out of the rocks:

1. The rocks are older, and have slowly developed algae problems in the past year.

2. Your filters have recently started to work well, or you made them stronger.

3. Nitrate and phosphate measurements in the water are low, usually the lowest they have been in a long time.

4. Green hair algae (not brown) on the rocks has increased in certain spots, usually on corners and protrusions at the top.

5. The glass has not needed cleaning as much.


Many people have never seen the effects of large amounts of phosphate coming out of the rocks quickly. But sure enough it does if you keep nutrients low enough in the water. How long does it continue? For 2 months to a year, depending on how much phosphate is in the rocks, how much feeding you do, and how strong your filters are. But one day you will see patches of white rock that were covered in green hair the day before; this is a sure sign that the algae are losing their phosphate supply from the rocks and can no longer hold on. Now it's just a matter of days before the rocks are clear.

And...

What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.

That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.

There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.

What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in illuminated areas have.

Reef studies have shown that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.

This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.

But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.

However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately, due only to the re-arranging of the rocks.

Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get by just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before: 1 to 2 years. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.
 
As mentioned above, the first 2 I do quarterly, and the last I merely the upper crust weekly and let the CUC do the rest.

Good on the first two, but if your relying on the cuc to clean up the detritus, who is going to clean up after them. Sure other lower organisms will but then whose going to clean up after them? Yeah sure more organisms, all until you get to the lowest one on the food chain, no ones going to eat their poop so whose going to clean up after them? Nothing will, that's your job. If you don't then it will leech into the water column, SantaMonica explains how in the quote below, this process is known as Saturation. If your not cleaning detritus off the rocks and out of the sand & exporting nutrients then your just leaving nutrients in the tank for more things to grow, such as algae. Your pods are going to love it, and most of your corals, the ones that come from lagoons and nutrient rich waters. But those that come from low nutrient waters, like SPS corals, will not like it. In the end its about recreating the conditions of the things you want to keep and adjusting your tank conditions to what they need. Unfortunatly, some LPS and most softies enjoy nutrient rich waters and so does algae.

I'm late to tell you to not remove the rocks; periphyton is now dead, and will take a year to re-grow. But this still might be of interest.

Your original problem is similar to most people's: the rock has accumulated phosphate for 12 to 24 months, because the previous export was not enough. During the first 12 to 24 months of many tanks, it may seem that your filters etc are "working", but that's because your rock is doing the absorbing for you. In 12 to 24 month, they fill up, then you have what you have now.

Phosphate flow out of rocks

Many people, when they get their nutrients low for the first time, get worried when more (not less) algae starts to grow on their rocks. It seems really strange, especially when nitrate and phosphate have gone lower than before. What is happening is that phosphate is coming out of the rocks. Remember, phosphate is invisible, so you can only see the effects of it, and it always "flows" from higher concentrations to lower concentrations (just like heat does).

Example: If your room is warm, and you put a cold object on the floor, heat from the air in the room will "flow" into the object until the object and the air are the same temperature. Example 2: If you put a hot object on the floor, heat will "flow" out of the object and go into the air in the room, again, until the air and the object are the same temperature. Now suppose you open your windows (in the winter). The warm air in your room will go out the windows, and it will get colder in the room. The object on the floor is now warmer than the air, so heat will flow out of the object and into the air, and then out the window.

Think of phosphate as the heat, and your rocks as the object, and your windows as the scrubber. As the scrubber pulls phosphate out of the water, the phosphate level in the water drops. Now, since the phosphate level in the water is lower than the phosphate level in the rocks, phosphate flows from the rocks into the water, and then from the water into the scrubber. This continues until the phosphate levels in the rocks and water are level again. And remember, you can't see this invisible flow.

This flow causes an interesting thing to happen. As the phosphate comes out of the rocks, it then becomes available to feed algae as soon as the phosphate reaches the surface of the rocks where there is light. So, since the surface of the rocks is rough and has light, it starts growing MORE algae there (not less) as the phosphate comes out of the rocks. This is a pretty amazing thing to see for the first time, because if you did not know what was happening you would probably think that the algae was mysteriously being added to your tank. Here are the signs of phosphate coming out of the rocks:

1. The rocks are older, and have slowly developed algae problems in the past year.

2. Your filters have recently started to work well, or you made them stronger.

3. Nitrate and phosphate measurements in the water are low, usually the lowest they have been in a long time.

4. Green hair algae (not brown) on the rocks has increased in certain spots, usually on corners and protrusions at the top.

5. The glass has not needed cleaning as much.


Many people have never seen the effects of large amounts of phosphate coming out of the rocks quickly. But sure enough it does if you keep nutrients low enough in the water. How long does it continue? For 2 months to a year, depending on how much phosphate is in the rocks, how much feeding you do, and how strong your filters are. But one day you will see patches of white rock that were covered in green hair the day before; this is a sure sign that the algae are losing their phosphate supply from the rocks and can no longer hold on. Now it's just a matter of days before the rocks are clear.

And...

What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.

That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.

There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.

What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in illuminated areas have.

Reef studies have shown that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.

This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.

But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.

However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately, due only to the re-arranging of the rocks.

Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get by just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before: 1 to 2 years. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.

Santamonica, not that I don't believe you, I do, ive read a little about this but I would like to know more, do you have good informational links on this subject? I would apprieciate it.
 
OP's got like 8 rocks that are totally covered in GHA, and everything else is fine. I think there is something about those few rocks that is more nutrient attractive than regular flux would provide, though I wouldn't be surprised if OP overdid making up for the early nutrient deficiency. One of the yoyo's of an early tank. Im leaning toward lack of cleaning, or flow, in that one area, but maybe the fish just like to poop there.

I'm curious, what would the periphyton be doing underneath that algae to warrant not scraping it off? Not much light, not much food, not much oxygen, I would think anything growing under the mat of algae in the pic posted would not survive the drastic change in condition once the algae was starved out, similar to if you moved it into bright lights? Plus, nobody gets their scape right the first time, and OP said there are parts they can't reach to clean. If it can handle being eaten by tangs, it can probably handle those few rocks being moved. Seems wiser than working around a poor scape choice forever.

But that is an interesting post. Does the slime ever choke out the biofilter by blocking nutrients and gasses to the bacteria in the rock? If it includes coralline and cyano that is desired, why does it not include GHA and cyano that isn't? I think Santa Monica has helped me clarify my general aversion to chemicals and pesticides like algaefix and hydrogen peroxide for algae issues. The baby goes out with the bath water. I'd like to see some links too :reading:
 
Many people have never seen the effects of large amounts of phosphate coming out of the rocks quickly. But sure enough it does if you keep nutrients low enough in the water. How long does it continue? For 2 months to a year, depending on how much phosphate is in the rocks, how much feeding you do, and how strong your filters are. But one day you will see patches of white rock that were covered in green hair the day before; this is a sure sign that the algae are losing their phosphate supply from the rocks and can no longer hold on. Now it's just a matter of days before the rocks are clear....

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.

Hi,
Thanks for taking the time to post this. So is the point of all this that if I wait 2 months to 1 year (and I assume keep my tank nutrients low), then all of the phosphate will leach out of the rocks and then there will be no more and the algae will die away?

Thanks
 
So all this makes me wonder what is different about tanks that thrive for MANY years without buildup occurring in the rocks. Is it as simple as "regular maintenance"? Last year I had a protracted GHA battle from rocks that the previous owner that used tap water for years (these are still in a bucket in my garage until I decide they are worth keeping). I am about 9 months in with the all new rock, so what is done to prevent having PO4 absorbing over time? Just consistently keep the levels at or below 0.03ppm the whole time?
For long term success and stability, it seems that, if the OP has a GHA outbreak, then ALL the rocks have absorbed PO4 levels, (I can't imagine only the algae-covered ones absorbed it). What should he/she do at this point to "open a window" and let things get back to appropriate levels?
Further, assuming my #60 lbs of rock in the garage are full of phosphate, how do you go about resetting them? In that situation, since they aren't in a tank, more aggressive protocols could be used. I.e. Muriatic acid...
 
Nitric acid won't do the trick, it goes deeper then 'skin deep'. Calcium carbonate will always bind with phos. It's the bacteria that unbind it and consume it (as well as other nutrients). Eventually the bacteria die and the live bacteria will push them out of the liverock. The ones at the bottom fall and at the top they just sit there until they are swept away by the current or you come along with a turkey baster. If they are left there to rot then something will feed on it (coral, algae, ect.) if not then it will break down and bind with the LR again or be released into the water column.

So if your doing regular maintenance then yeah, it's controllable because your removing dead bacteria containing some phosphate. If your not cleaning then your importing more nutrients then exporting and eventually something will feed off it wiether it be coral, fish, cuc, or algae, and most of the time it's going to be algae.
 
You can actually see this in action. Take your tap water live rock, put some saltwater in there with a heater and powerhead for surface agitation.

Every week take the rock out and shake it out in one bucket then another and set it aside, repeat for the rest of the rocks. Change out water in the main bucket, refill and put rock in. Do that every week. You will notice over time more and more detritus accumulating. That's bacteria consuming nutrients in the rock, dying and being pushed out of the rock. It will take a few months, 2-3 maybe even 4-5. Then you will notice a ton of detritus one week and very little the next. Now your rock is pretty clean and ready to go into the tank.
 
You can actually see this in action. Take your tap water live rock, put some saltwater in there with a heater and powerhead for surface agitation.

Every week take the rock out and shake it out in one bucket then another and set it aside, repeat for the rest of the rocks. Change out water in the main bucket, refill and put rock in. Do that every week. You will notice over time more and more detritus accumulating. That's bacteria consuming nutrients in the rock, dying and being pushed out of the rock. It will take a few months, 2-3 maybe even 4-5. Then you will notice a ton of detritus one week and very little the next. Now your rock is pretty clean and ready to go into the tank.

Since the rock has been dry for several months already, should I use RO water, or salt water? Keep a heater in there with the PH as well?
 
Saltwater. This process is basically starting a new tank with no substrate or critters besides the bacteria. Doesn't matter if the rock is live rock or fresh dry rock from brs. Heater and ph yes
 
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