What's the deal with Anthias

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10549516#post10549516 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CarlC
Yep the Beta Glucon is only goingto be found in a health food store. I prefer the capsules since I do not have anything to break up hard pills. Just pull the capsule apart and sprinkle it over the food. Let it sit in the fridge for a few hours to give it time to soak into the food.

For sick, injured, or just dewormed fish I use it daily for atleast a week. Once the fish are back to normal I use it once a week.

Carl

wouldn't you agree to soaking that in garlic also esp if the anthias is hard to get to eat?---or do they like the task of beta glucon as well as garlic
 
So much for feeding well....
He isn't eating any more and his skin looks worse than yesterday. I'm going to continue looking in the fish disease forum for what this guy has. Haven't found anything yet.
 
Pezcubano--you gotta get the fish out of there before it infects the rest off them. You can't treat your whole tank esp with corals and inverts in there.
 
I've had the same bottle of extract for a couple of years now. I think I might have used it a few times when I first got into the hobby. I get a good feeding response from non eaters by soaking food in Coral Plankton made by Liquid Life. It has a sweet smell to it. I think whatever sugars might be in it are quickly broken down by the beneficial bacteria. Isn't that why people started dosing Vodka. The sugars boosted bacteria counts.

A fish's sense of smell is important to it's survival. Even the smallest amounts of garlic I think quickly pollute the water and overwhelm the sense of smell making it difficult for the fish to smell anything else.

This is just my opinion and not based on any proven facts that I know of. It is working for me so I see no reason to change. No fish makes it to my display until it is eating so would garlic or any other product give me a better feeding response once in the display I have no idea.

Carl
 
The sick anthia (#3) snubbed breakfast.
During lunch he came out of his resting place but didn't eat anything. Meanwhile, his buddies were tearing the tank to shreds and stuffing themselves.
His skin condition has gotten pretty bad and he splits his time between resting and swimming around the tank. Anthia #2 has also taken to resting on some of the rocks, but only for a minute or two. He has no signs of sickness.
Anthia #1 has a white rash on his forehead, but is eating voraciously and has no other signs of sickness.
I ordered the Beta Glucan and the Selcon, so hopefully #3 makes it through...
I see where Carls is coming from with the Garlic. I'm using it now for therapeutic purposes, hoping it helps out the sickly anthia. I don't believe I need it anymore to induce feeding.
 
No fish makes it to my display until it is eating so would garlic or any other product give me a better feeding response once in the display I have no idea.

Carl [/B]

Excellent point
That is the key here and probably the most under used asset of a quarantine tank--getting them to feed before entering the stresses of the main tank.
 
realistically

is it feasible to keep two bartletts and 1 lyretail in a 65?

also in the 65 is a falce perc and long nose butterfly.
 
These guys are really active and need lots of space to swim. A 65 is not going to provide that. Aggresion with this species and a couple of others can get bad in bigger tanks. It is only multiplied in smaller tanks with no room for escape.

Carl
 
I've got the 3 dispars I've been talking about in my 75, and they seem to be fine in terms of swimming space (take it with a grain of salt because I'm a newbie in the world of anthias). There is one anthia that keeps harrasing my clowns. Whenever they spend too much time in his area of the tank he chases them up towards the surface and the flashes them!
Besides that there has been no other signs of aggression.
My sick anthia is still not doing well. He's getting much worse...
 
The dorsal fin on males is almost solid red with only a very small portion closest to the body being yellowish orange and a thin blue outline on the upper edge. Long extentions of the 2nd spine on the pectoral fins (much longer on dominant males), head will be a pinkish color. Look at the one you saw flashing. That would be a male. Females don't usually flash.

Carl
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10563632#post10563632 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pepeinthenavy
What's with the link SDguy???

What's with what link?
 
I've stared at my anthias relentlessly and I think I have 2 males left (the sick anthia has found a place to rest in peace and its a matter of hours). I've learned my lesson and I'm in the process of setting up my hospital tank.

Here's why I think there are two males left:
1) The dorsal fin on each one is completely red with a blue outline
2) The pec fins are really long on both of them
3) They flash ALL THE TIME!! Oftentimes they flash on top of each other, almost touching eachother
What I have noticed is that one is larger than the other and this larger one has different coloration. He has a pink head and a distinctly yellow/orange body. The smaller one has the same pink head, but the body is more of a pinkish yellow and doesn't stand out from the head as much.
But WOW, do they flash a lot!!!
So, if I do indeed have two males, do I have a problem on my hands???
They get along great right now and are like 2 peas in a pod. ZERO aggression towards eachother.
 
Well, I'd say it does sound like you have two males. Flashing to each other actually is aggression, just not physical contact. I can't be certain, but I doubt they will get along, long term. On the other hand, you may go with the idea that with no females, they are less likely to fight, and therefore might actually coexist. It's an idea I've been tossing around in my head...no clue if it will work though.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10564717#post10564717 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pezcubano
I've stared at my anthias relentlessly and I think I have 2 males left (the sick anthia has found a place to rest in peace and its a matter of hours). I've learned my lesson and I'm in the process of setting up my hospital tank.

Here's why I think there are two males left:
1) The dorsal fin on each one is completely red with a blue outline
2) The pec fins are really long on both of them
3) They flash ALL THE TIME!! Oftentimes they flash on top of each other, almost touching eachother
What I have noticed is that one is larger than the other and this larger one has different coloration. He has a pink head and a distinctly yellow/orange body. The smaller one has the same pink head, but the body is more of a pinkish yellow and doesn't stand out from the head as much.
But WOW, do they flash a lot!!!
So, if I do indeed have two males, do I have a problem on my hands???
They get along great right now and are like 2 peas in a pod. ZERO aggression towards eachother.

whether you are going to have problems down the line or not--you did the right thing by introducing three at once--that can help sometimes. If they are getting along now then they probably be ok.
What you have to watch is when you add more fish--any fish will become stressed if they feel "their space" is being violated.
 
This species and Bartletts as Peter has described in other posts can be down right nasty! When they want someone gone from the group they will make sure it is done. This is not just a male trait. Females can be just as rough with each other.

Your dispar showing are their aggression by flashing for now. Only time will tell if they will start ripping each others eye's out. The flashing you are seeing is surely causing a great deal of stress. Stress as we know in humas is a slow killer.

Your fish are still new and have not been able to set up territiories. Over time maybe they will split and occupy differant parts of the tank maybe they won't. All you can really do now is give them a good varied diet to keep them strong. Provide the esenstial vitamins and minerals through Vita Chem and Selcon and add Beta Glucon once a week. Keep your eye on the one that is not as impressive looking.

If you decide to add females later on make sure they spend time in a QT tank. Get them eating there and make sure they are healthy before adding them to your males.

Carl
 
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