Im on bulkreefsupply.com and im trying to figure out whats the difference and what would be the best to use. I plan on dosing with the new tank calcium, alkalinity and magnesium this time. Just trying to figure out what the difference of bicarbonate and soda sh and what better to use. Thanks!
Whats the difference between sodium bicarbonate and soda ash?
- Thread starter aaronlp
- Start date
there are two common recipes for adding two part. one slightly raises PH and the other slightly lowers.
recipe 1 uses soda ash: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Recipe-1-Instructions-for-Bulk-Packaged-Materials
recipe 2 uses sodium bicarbonate (baking soda): http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Recipe-2-Instructions-for-Bulk-Packaged-Materials
note that the "strength" is different so if you move from one to the other you need to adjust the amount you dose. the BRS calculator can help you with that: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/reef-calculator
recipe 1 uses soda ash: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Recipe-1-Instructions-for-Bulk-Packaged-Materials
recipe 2 uses sodium bicarbonate (baking soda): http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/Recipe-2-Instructions-for-Bulk-Packaged-Materials
note that the "strength" is different so if you move from one to the other you need to adjust the amount you dose. the BRS calculator can help you with that: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/reef-calculator
Which one would you recomend for a brand new tank being setup? Im so confused on this stuff haha. I read both links you just put up. Do you do both parts while dosing the tank or are those just different choices you can do for dosing. I would like to stick to a 2part dosing on this tank(maybe add magnesium with it) but would would anyone recommend the soda ash or bicarbonate? Any help would be more than appreciated
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Only add what you can test for and need. Pick based on your ph. If you are unsure I would go with bicarbonate on the basis that it is less potent of a mix. Both parts should be dosed equally with at least a few minutes in etween as they react with each other. Magnesium is only if you test and need it, water changes might be all you need for mg.
Test and raise the levels to where you need them. Then do not dose and test a few day in a row writing down the numbers. As you see the trend use the calculator to see how much you need to add per day.
Aim for 8.5 kh and 420 ca. If the ca is high don't sweat it.
Test and raise the levels to where you need them. Then do not dose and test a few day in a row writing down the numbers. As you see the trend use the calculator to see how much you need to add per day.
Aim for 8.5 kh and 420 ca. If the ca is high don't sweat it.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
This:
It's hard to suggest one or the other for a brand new tank, even if you KNOW the pH, because as the tank settles in the pH might balance out differently. So keep an eye on things for a month or two to make sure whichever choice you make is still appropriate.
Another way to reduce reaction is to locate the dosing points far apart, i.e. at opposite sides of the sump. You want to dose into areas of high flow. Worst case would be dosing the two chemicals at the same time right next to each other into a dead spot.
It's hard to suggest one or the other for a brand new tank, even if you KNOW the pH, because as the tank settles in the pH might balance out differently. So keep an eye on things for a month or two to make sure whichever choice you make is still appropriate.
Another way to reduce reaction is to locate the dosing points far apart, i.e. at opposite sides of the sump. You want to dose into areas of high flow. Worst case would be dosing the two chemicals at the same time right next to each other into a dead spot.
teamdulski
The Saltiest!
I like bicarb because the carb seems to precipitate so easily.
cardiffgiant
Active member
I wouldn't recommend 2 part until the tank cycles, you've got corals in there, and you've determined (through testing) that regular water changes aren't meeting your demand for Ca, Kh, or Mg.
I struggled with tuning my 2 part dosing at first. You can get into a lot of trouble and experience bleaching and loss of coral if you create alkalinity swings.
I agree with others on the recipe selection. I use recipe 1 based on pH. I also find that baking the arm & hammer makes it mix with the RODI more evenly.
I dose mine automatically with digital timers and drews dosers. I dose the Kh part in even hours and the Ca part in odd hours. Both go to a high flow area of the sump.
I determined my dosing amounts with the use of the online calculators and a little trial and error as follows:
Day 1
- Do a normal water change and test parameters
- Adjust as needed to get Kh and Ca to desired levels (being careful not to raise either more aggressively than recommended)
Day 7
- Do a normal water change, test parameters
- The difference between your readings in Day 1 and Day 7 is the calcium and alkalinity demand that exceeds replenishment from a normal water change throughout a week
- Calculate the daily demand and required dosing amounts with the help of the online calculators
- Adjust as needed to get Kh and Ca to desired levels (being careful not to raise either more aggressively than recommended)
Day 8
- Begin your daily dosing regimen, dosing small amounts in a high flow area of the sump, alternating Ca and Kh at different times
Day 9-13
- Continue dosing regimen, test Kh and Ca daily or almost daily, continue dosing regimen. Only alter the dosing regimen if you see things starting to swing
Day 14
- Do a normal water change, test parameters
- Use the results from the difference between your readings in Day 7 and Day 14 to see how close you were to determining calcium and alkalinity demand and make any necessary changes to your dosing regimen
- Adjust as needed to get Kh and Ca to desired levels (being careful not to raise either more aggressively than recommended)
Day 15+
- Continue dosing regiment
- Monitor and adjust dosing schedule as the demand in your tank changes over time
Carbonate( NaCO3) adds twice as much alklainity as bi carbonate( NaHCO3) .
The Na(sodium) disassociates so it doesn't play .
The carbonate alkalinity looks like this :
(carbonate) CO3-- <-->(bicarbonate) HCO3- <-->(carbonic acid)H2 CO3/ CO2 H2O.
(More Co3 shifts proportions to the left, Co2 from the air or produced in the tank shifts it to the right.
CO3 has a double negative charge with room to bond and thus neutralize 2 H+ protons; H2 CO3- has only one bonding site as one is already taken. Co2 and carbonic acid add H . These species of carbonate move back and forth instantaneously in relation to ph and ph moves in relation to their relative proportions .
In natural seawater,8.2ph, CO3 is about 20ppm while HCO3 is 100ppm.
So, how much carbonate (CO3) vs bicarbonate(HCO3) you add depends in part on how much CO2 gets into your tank.
The Na(sodium) disassociates so it doesn't play .
The carbonate alkalinity looks like this :
(carbonate) CO3-- <-->(bicarbonate) HCO3- <-->(carbonic acid)H2 CO3/ CO2 H2O.
(More Co3 shifts proportions to the left, Co2 from the air or produced in the tank shifts it to the right.
CO3 has a double negative charge with room to bond and thus neutralize 2 H+ protons; H2 CO3- has only one bonding site as one is already taken. Co2 and carbonic acid add H . These species of carbonate move back and forth instantaneously in relation to ph and ph moves in relation to their relative proportions .
In natural seawater,8.2ph, CO3 is about 20ppm while HCO3 is 100ppm.
So, how much carbonate (CO3) vs bicarbonate(HCO3) you add depends in part on how much CO2 gets into your tank.
