What's wrong with my Haitian reef nem?

The sand is live sand, the rock on the left is fake, there is actually a pyramid stack of live rock on the right that the top was already red/green/purple, the others were not there yet when I added them, but were turning and already had some bristle worms and polyp type things, now are light green/burgundy more and more daily. Like I said before, nitrites and nitrates perfect, at 0, ammonia at 0, only one that has been off and needed care was the pH. I used the reefmaster chemical test kit, not the test strips. I use live salt or whatever exactly it is called, the ine with all the good stuff in it. I have NO coral so the G coral you mentioned, I'm not sure what you were looking at, maybe the little fake thing all the way to the left by the white fake rock I have so the clown and blue dam have hiding spots they like. I do have a salinity hydrometer and my salinity is also on point. I only add it disolved already. I do feed a variety, and krill directly to the nem and seastar. I have no living corals or plants, fish, nem, sea star. I went with the Haitian reef nem because they don't have as high parameters needed. I did figure out that my lighting is saltwater fish lighting and not reef lighting. I was under the impression it was just a lower quality not incorrect for reef creatures all together. I will not be adding coral at any time to this tank because of our small size and the chocolate chip sea star would just eat the coral and for my daughter, the sea star is much more important. Thank you for your advice though. We have a simple tank that I have researched and chosen its inhabitants and what has gone in it for specific reasons. I did miscalculate on the light that came with my tank kit. I misunderstood the differences. I am still going low end of the cost and ability with the reef light I chose, but it should hopefully do fine for the small tank and single nem we are wanting to inhabit it. I do also think this nem may have already been declining when we added it to our inadequately lit tank, I have compared photos of the first days we had it to others thriving and the one I chose already had shorter tentacles and its foot was much paler than healthier specimens I've seen since. Our first week we also saw it purge a darker brown mix than its other normal purging and I read recently that it is purging the zoox if darker brown in color and a very bad sign that it is not healthy. I thought that was its normal waste out and didn't realize it was in trouble yet. With our set up, the only 2 things that made any sence for being wrong were the flow or light. I had good flow, the power head added a bit too much flow with the current we already had and the nem declined faster, that left the light which thanks to earlier posts and more research, I now understand that better. The hood we have came with our tank kit and has a saltwater led light strip that clips into it. That is why we have to get a different cover when upgrading our light. It is a folding glass one that the new led low heat light strip can sit above safely, still has a strip along the back to vent and leave our filter, dual air stone tubes, and heater cord access, but will protect the tank from dust, pet dander, or Siberian husky or cat hair from contaminating the water. We have indoor pets that go in and out of the house so I can't leave the tank wide open, not to mentione being on a farm with horses and goats, I always have horse hair on me, lol. I have a zoo it would seem. At any rate, I do appreciate your advice, and I know many of these things were described over many many messages, so I have tried to answer them again. We just don't have the inhabitants you mentioned for needing some of those things and actually do have and are doing some of the others. Sorry for the confusion. :)
 
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Sorry, your post did not have picture embedded directly on to the post and while flipping back and fore looking at the picture I got mixed up your tank with someone else. Please disregard what I spend almost 45 mins to think about and type. I am very sorry.

Still these bits below are important:

Important points in reef keeping:

enough light, enough circulation for the invertebrates you are keeping
stability in temp (good thermometer with controller). Many tank are killed by a stuck heater
stability in salinity (daily top-off or automatic top off)
good way to export bad stuff (good skimmer, or use Live sand methods)
Diversity of fauna and flora
sensible selection of fish and invertebrates
good source of nutrient for the animals

The point of raising salinity is very important. Do not increase salinity in way other than let evaporation do it. You should not add concentrated salt solution to your tank. Just add salt that is the same as your tank salinity and let evaporation increase it in a few days or even a week or two. I brought this up because you said that you have a concentrated salt solution under your tank to add to increase salinity.

BTW, starfish are very sensitive to salinity change. Quick increase in salinity and they will just start to rot.

Very sorry for the confusion on my part regarding what is your tank and what is in another new reefer's tank.
 
Is it not the case that a little Nitrate <=5ppm and a barely detectable reading for Phosphate is better for growth and zoo production?
Not really. Our test kits are not good enough. Nitrate is never 0 in our tank. Our test just does not have the sensitivity needed to detect the level of nitrates at the natural reef level.
 
I kept reading Nitrate, nitrite, and amonia should be kept at 0 or close as possible to be healthy, but PH and calcium, and of course salinity needed to be kept up. Please post if you find an answer otherwise, I would like to know. Ours maintains really well with being clean, but I have been reading about the different requirements between the lights needed for FO salt tanks vs low end to high maintenance reef lighting requirements. Red, green, etc. Not just the blue acetic (sp?) and white-t5 etc. I keep a phosphate pad in with the charcoal filter and have the local store check my phosphates and metals regularly and I check the rest.
 
Ahh, that makes sense, lol, I thought you were referring to my little piece of fake coral and fake rock on the one side. As for the salt. I don't mean that I drastically change the salt. I use the water with high concentration of salt dissolved in it to add a little tiny bit here and there if I see the salinity start to decline. It never fluctuates more than a few degrees on the hydrometer, I check it daily and don't let it fluctuate. I knew going into it with only a small 29g tank, my perimeters could fluctuate drastically if I didn't stay on top of them. I am careful to make sure they stay on point. I didn't want to shock the creatures with drastic changes, even with tank cleanings, that's why I make sure I have 6-10 gallons of filtered water already with the same salinity and temperature that has sat 24-48 hours and I slowly pour it in over the fake rock to reraise the level and disturb as little as possible. The spare gallon of filtered water and the spare gallon of concentrated salt water, I add those during the week to keep the salinity and the water level at exactly the right maintaining levels so that there is no wild fluctuations. I also use some of the water boost when I do tank changes to keep the right amount of good bacteria, and a few squirts of stress free stuff to the new water. That's why I believe our nem was only failing because of the lighting, I already tried boosting the flow and it was way too much, I already had good flow. Plus, if I could post pictures from my phone, I'd show you how different our day 1 pictures are from some healthy nems of the same species. I think ours already had the deck stacked against it, then we didn't give it the lighting it needed in time to turn it around. It was already purging its zoox and dying. I don't expect to find it alive when I get home sadly, and the light won't arrive til tomorrow. I don't think it would help it at this point anyway. :(
 
My being on here almost 24/7 is because I've got a royally screwed up back and haven't worked since June of last year when I had surgery #1. They did a decompression and fusion of L4-L5. Well wouldn't you just know it that after only a few months that L5-S1 collapsed also so I'm going to have spine surgery #2 on March 31st. I am on huge amounts of narcotics for the extreme pain that I'm in and I can't hardly walk because of it.

I've got no life and nothing better to do than to be on here as it's something that I'm passionate about and I'm willing to do my best to help others.

My comment was because you had to give a comment that frankly neither needed to be said or if you had the experience that you are trying to come across as having you would have added to what I said instead.

Hey, good luck. Hope all goes smooth and look forward to your advice when you feel better :fish2::thumbsup:
 
Lab grade, large glass hydrometer is expensive and accurate, but operator error is high. You need large long beaker and the water have to be really still and ... ....
Hydrometer sold for our hobby is trash.
You should never have to raise salinity of the tank since you only loose water not salt to elaboration. Since I see that you think you need to increase salinity of the tank, I deduce that your hydrometer give you error in reading. Ditch it and get a frefractometer.
 
Maybe I should have described that a little better. I actually do lose salt. I get a good amount of salt creep on the back outside of my lid with the splash and gap at the top of the tank being open about an inch and a half. I do not scrape it back into the tank because we do have 2 cats and 2 Siberian huskies and I don't want to add any pet hair or dander into the tank if I can help it. I chase a hair or two across the water each week as it is, but I try to limit it as much as possible. So I clean it off and toss it in the trash. I add maybe a cup or two of salt water a week to combat evaporation. Maybe, I know its not much but I havent measured. After I add the water back in for a water change, that is mostly when it is used. I test the salinity as best I can to tell it is the same as the tank, but once added in, I will use the heavier concentrated jug to gradually raise it and check over the course of hours to add a splash here or there until its right, but not to dump too much and take it too high because the hydrometer didn't read it dispersed correctly. Again, I have a small tank, so things can shift widely very quickly, so I do things in small amounts so I don't shift too much. The little tank gets a lot of water evaporation and needs water added weekly, so with the salt and water going out of the tank, it has to be added back. Maybe its just a little tank thing. I was warned that 29g tanks were hard to keep because everything changes so quickly, unlike larger tanks. I don't know about the quality of the hydrometer, I just know it makes sense to me if I'm flaking a lot of salt into the trash and the water level is down an inch or so every number of days, I have to add more to maintain, right? :)
 
Hope your surgery is smooth and recovery is painless and fast! Thanks for your advice too, I appreciate it!
 
Thanks, I appreciate it! I've been in so much pain for so many years, I'm hoping that this is the last thing to fix it. Surgeons said I should have 90% or better relief, so I'm really looking forward to being able to walk again pain free.
 
Update:

Sadly, we did lose the nem. Before the light arrived, it was already dead and melting. :'(
It was quarantined, so it did not contaminate the tank, it was actually dead and melting over 24hr before the light came, but just in case there was a possibility of it recovering, we kept it until we could see if there was any chance after a few hours under the new light. I buried it in the flowerbed this morning. My daughter said it deserved better than being flushed.

After setting up the new lid and light, we can tell a huge difference! The reef light makes our previous salt water tank light look sad and dingy vs bright and bold like swimming back in the FL Keys. No wonder the nem died. :( As for the venting issue that someone mentioned, the glass lid has room at the back and front for air circulation at the water level, and the light does not warm the glass it hovers just above. I do need to figure out if it should be full blast or dimmed at all, that I am not sure of yet so will research today. We also added a calcium test to our kit and switched from marine salt with all the minerals and such, to a reef salt instead that boosts the calcium and magnesium that is probably why our pH has been lower than optimal. I hadn't switched to it because I was not putting any corals in the tank, but am I right in understanding that I should have that for the nem and sea star as well? Water flow is great, light great, salinity, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH all great. Have added a new nem (this time I went for a darker in color one with nice long tenticles who was rooted in the sand and easy to get without it being attached from a rock, and not a Petco critter so I know as long as I don't screw it up, it should be happy and healthy). It seems very happy so far and the tankmates are good with it. Thank you for all your comments and suggestions. I hope changing the salt, watching the calcium too, changing the light, and having a power head on hand in case water flow is not making our nem happy, will do the trick and give this nem a better chance at a long life for it. The nem is one of the preferred creatures my daughter really wants in her tank, so we don't want to give up, but do not want to bury another. Thanks again for everyone's help! :)
 
New lighting, new nem, hopeful!

New lighting, new nem, hopeful!

Hoping changes made do the trick. :)
 

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What's wrong with my Haitian reef nem?

Lol, I don't know why you are still measuring Ph. If your tank is cycled, you shouldn't even have to measure Ammonia n nitrites. And if you don't have lots of difficult to care for stoney corals, not even nitrates. Ca measurements are also useless since you have nothing that will use it up.

Please read the stickies in the new to hobby section. Lots of info there
 
Will read it in just a bit, I haven't yet, thank you for reminding me. Was checking pH because it had been lower than optimal, ammonia and nitrites/nitrates I keep an eye on with a once a week check to make sure nothing swings. I'd rather over check than under, right? Yes, it has cycled and my levels are always at 0 except the pH, which I assume was because I probably had low calcium, donno, bought a calcium test, but switched to the reef salt blend instead of the marine salt blend. Someone else had the comments and conversation earlier about calcium. It hadn't occurred to me until I saw the two different types of salt mix and the reef salt said additional calcium and magnesium. I get that I don't need to stress about some of that since I'm not growing g corals. I did have a conversation today that I was advised to keep my lights up and not dim them unless I have an algae issue, but to run the daylight during the day as usual, but limit the blue to a couple hours in the morning g and evening and turn the lights off basically when I sleep. I was running the blue all night long. Agree?
 
There is usually no harm in checking too often unless you end up chasing numbers. But Ph, ammonia and nitrites don't need to be checked at all. Ph can be monitored but the readings have no real value except as a range. Ammonia only comes into play if you have huge die off or feed way too much to cause a spike.

Parameters that are important if you keep corals are temp, Salinity, Kh, Ca, Mg. If only fish then salinity n temp. To a small extent Kh.


The point I'm trying to make is educate yourself about what it takes to run a successful marine tank. Why expend money and time on measuring parameters that you don't have to.
 
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