when things start going weird in your tank...FYI

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
...when things start clouding, closing up, emitting strings of brown gunk, fish start hanging in unusual places, a rash of new creatures are appearing in your tank, and in general, when things are going on that have not gone on before...

..what's the first thing you should do?

1. test the water. Check nitrate, ammonia, temperature, salinity, ph, and alkalinity in that order. Every tank owner should have the alkalinity test and a supply of buffer, imho, no matter what you keep. If you're keeping stony coral or clams, add calcium and magnesium tests to that list. Log your test results and test for the next few days as you try to correct what's going on.

2. If you haven't done a water change this week, do a 10 to 20% water change even if you can't find anything wrong in step 1. Note: a water change will drop your nitrate reading.

3. If you're getting the closing up and brown gunk reaction, or if you have an ammonia reading of any sort or just high nitrates [which can get to an ammonia reading] run some washed carbon for 4 days, then remove it and toss. Carbon can remove a lot of things, including ammonia and the irritants some soft corals spit at each other. Always toss carbon after its expiration period: over-charged, it can start releasing everything it just absorbed.

4. if you've got cloudy water, it is oxygen-poor, just because it is cloudy: be very attentive to your fish and have your qt filled with clean water and standing by. Any time you suspect there is not enough oxygen in your tank, have that quarantine tank ready for your fish. Corals tend to just close up and wait: in that sense they're tougher than fish. To solve your cloudiness problem check for:
1. dying caulerpa mass. That is serious. Get all specimens to clean water. Tank crash in progress. Get on RC and ask for help, while doing a big water change and running carbon.
2. sandbed disturbance: serious: get a one micron filter [cannister] or a diatom filter and run it immediately until clear. Never overturn a sandbed. Noxious biochemicals get released. They're safe, if kept where they are: not safe if released into your water.
3. just dust: will settle, but may irritate specimens. A one micron filter or even filter sock will fix this. Personally I don't run filter socks longterm, just for immediate need.
4. kalk accident or adding calcium and buffer together can do this: it will clear on its own, but watch your ph. If your ph spikes, add a tiny bit of club soda, but I mean tiny, and test every 15 minutes. Remember that it will be falling fast on its own, so don't compound your problem by overdosing in the other direction.

HTH.
 
great post as always sk8r

I'll add--its also time to check your tank maintenace routines--sometimes we omit or skip for various reasons

1. make sure you are using ro water

2. once a week take a turkey baster and lightly baste substrate and rock work. this gets dissolved organics back into the water column where they can be skimmed off

3 make sure your flow rate through the sump matches the output of the skimmer. too often flow is two high resulting in unskimmed organic laden water being returned to the tank. this is usually at lower levels in the tank and it has to slowly rise through the water column to be filtered off from the top. this situation is ideal for cyano and algae to feed on

4. make sure the flow rate in the tank itself is between 20-40 times the tank volume in gph. Once and a while change the position of your power heads to address slow areas

5. take power heads and esp koriailas out of the tank once a month and clean them off. Debris etc gets caught easily on them promotes cyano from forming and really slows their output down

6. If using a refractometer--calibibrate it every month

7. if using a filter sock change it every other day

8. if using a refugium every so often crank up the flow through it for 24 hours

8. clean skimmer cups every second day or sooner if needed

9. check lighting fixtures for salt creep and clean off if covered

10.once a month take out the skimmer pump--take it apart and clean it out. Make sure you check the air venturi--it can get clogged right solid by precipitation or from drawing salt laden water into it.

11. Every three months or so add a small piece of live rock to your system--either in the tank or in the sump. Over time live rock breaks down

12. Make sure your clean up crew includes nessarius snails--these live in the substrate--keep in loose and prevent hardening of the argonite
 
Cap'n, you are so much neater and more organized than I am. ;) My poor skimmer pump runs, that's what I can say about it, my system has never seen a filter sock, and the salt creep layer in my jump-prevention downflow top could supply a tank. [It's not where it could fall in and hit a specimen.]
So you can survive on less maintenance, but the cap'n's suggestions are all good ones. Just be sure if you're going to recalibrate your refractometer yourself [many lfs's will do it for you] that you do it right: you can screw it up, and if it's screwed, your tank is screwed. The first time you do it yourself, get your lfs to doublecheck it before you trust it again so you can be sure you did it right.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11877486#post11877486 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
Cap'n, you are so much neater and more organized than I am. ;) My poor skimmer pump runs, that's what I can say about it, my system has never seen a filter sock, and the salt creep layer in my jump-prevention downflow top could supply a tank. [It's not where it could fall in and hit a specimen.]
So you can survive on less maintenance, but the cap'n's suggestions are all good ones. Just be sure if you're going to recalibrate your refractometer yourself [many lfs's will do it for you] that you do it right: you can screw it up, and if it's screwed, your tank is screwed. The first time you do it yourself, get your lfs to doublecheck it before you trust it again so you can be sure you did it right.

thanks for the compliment --it is regarded highly coming from you

re calibrating the refractometer
get the proper solution from pin point rather then diy mixtures etc
It designed for the refractometers to read 35ppm dead on.
it doesn't come with instructions so I thought it was worth adding
 
maybe this statement is worth debating or clarifying here

"2. If you haven't done a water change this week, do a 10 to 20% water change even if you can't find anything wrong in step 1. Note: a water change will drop your nitrate reading."

I read many posts that say nitrates are removed by a water change and many that say they are not--ammonia levels are reduced but not nitrates
 
My bad...I haven't calibrated my refractometer using the solution...

Is this what we want? :)

PINPOINTâ"žÂ¢ Salinity Calibration Fluid
53.0 mS standardized fluid for calibrating the PINPOINT Salinity Monitorâ"žÂ¢ with conversion chart
 
Doh, let me think again: I think it's the water change that drops nitrate and carbon that gets ammonia, but I am the world's worst bone-head chemist. Which is which, guys? Somebody challenges me and immediately I get dubious.
 
THat's a good article, by the way. If you conceptualize anything you've ever poured into your tank still being in there in some form or other, you can see the potential problem.

Back in the dino days, polyfilter was one of our best defenses: I used a drip system [outmoded] that sent everything through polyfilter, which usually had as many colors as Jacob's proverbial coat---indicating chemical absorption. Nowadays poly is so darned expensive we usually recommend running tiny bits of it only as test strips to see if it can do something for you...

But it is not a terribly bad fix for a generally 'old-tank' syndrome problem. It actually does take things out. Unfortunately it takes some things out you'd rather not have taken out, but that's the bargain you make.

As the ultimate old-tank fix, you just qt everybody and everything and set up with new sand, with about a one-week cycle. When you have really, really gotten yourself into a major problem, that is sometimes the shortest way out, but it has it's problems in that you go all the way back to "new tank syndrome"---fragility, spikes, algae blooms, lack of pods, and taking a while before certain specimens will thrive.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11877698#post11877698 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HumanIMDB
My bad...I haven't calibrated my refractometer using the solution...

Is this what we want? :)

PINPOINTâ"žÂ¢ Salinity Calibration Fluid
53.0 mS standardized fluid for calibrating the PINPOINT Salinity Monitorâ"žÂ¢ with conversion chart

that's the correct stuff according to the chemistry experts here:smokin:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11878727#post11878727 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
Doh, let me think again: I think it's the water change that drops nitrate and carbon that gets ammonia, but I am the world's worst bone-head chemist. Which is which, guys? Somebody challenges me and immediately I get dubious.

I'm going to make a new thread up in the chem section on this. I am not 100 per sure either and I think I should be
 
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