why can't I keep acros???

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9166230#post9166230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 20 20
What would be considered a good alk range for SPS? At what level is the alk 'too high'?

Natural levels are about 7, I shoot for 9.
 
WELL I have been running my skimmer dry and feeding filter plankton....and still have no sign of any algae....and lost another millipora for some reason.....I have done everything I know to do...what is the deal??? my water parameters are exactly what they should be???
 
I would have to agree with a couple of the folks prior in saying it could be a nutrient issue. Some books will even tell you to not even try to put acro's in a tank that is less than a year old. It wasnt till after a year, I started having great success with acros. Try slighly reducing the number of gallons in the water changes and keep up with the increased plankton feeding.........I would also ask the guys over in the SPS forum. They have been very helpful to me in the past......

PS...Nice aquascape btw!!
 
thanks alot...I have been told not enough nutrients then another tells me to much po4?????so I guess Im confused...If I filter feed to much it will raise the po4 and if I run things to remove the po4 it will remove the nutrients???
 
I would suspect that your SPS colonies are wild "caught". They generally don't adapt well to aquarium life.

<b>Try some aquacultured frags</b> .. ones from colonies which have been grown out in a captive environment (from a successful SPS reefer). I would bet you will find your results MUCH improved.

Many such sellers can be found in the Reef Central Sellers Forums.
 
ok sounds good....I wish I would have known that before I lost about $500 through foster & smith.....how do they keep selling them there if there is problems with them?
 
I was reading an article in the smithsonian magazine the other day about reef bleaching and they said that water temperature was a main factor in why the reefs were dying and bleaching. The lighting wouldnt necessarily cause the bleaching, it would cause the corals to turn brown. From what I have read, you are running anywhere from 750 to 1000 watts of lighting which is not nearly enough to keep sps in your tank. To keep sps in your tank you need at least 7 watts per gallon of metal halide lighting. That would put you at a minimum of 1470w. Take the temp of the water, there is a reason why corals can mostly exist in tropical environments.

If the temp is too low I would suggest getting a heater and if the water is too hot get a chiller or a fan for your sump.
 
There isn't a problem with them, it's just that they are much more difficult to acclimate and grow. I'm sure they do much better in very large, long-established setups.

I'm sure others are more qualified to comment on wild colonies, than I am.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9257072#post9257072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flasher1
I was reading an article in the smithsonian magazine the other day about reef bleaching and they said that water temperature was a main factor in why the reefs were dying and bleaching. The lighting wouldnt necessarily cause the bleaching, it would cause the corals to turn brown. From what I have read, you are running anywhere from 750 to 1000 watts of lighting which is not nearly enough to keep sps in your tank. To keep sps in your tank you need at least 7 watts per gallon of metal halide lighting. That would put you at a minimum of 1470w. Take the temp of the water, there is a reason why corals can mostly exist in tropical environments.

If the temp is too low I would suggest getting a heater and if the water is too hot get a chiller or a fan for your sump.


Incorrect. He has 3 250 watt mh 10,000k and 4 72" atinics.....
That is outstanding lighting for sps. Don't get caught up in watts per gallon. It is a very poor measurement of lighting.
 
In looking at the photos on both threads this tank looks very young. I never saw a post about how long it's been setup. If it is less than 6 months with 15 fish I think you have added things to quickly. Most people don't introduce Acropora until the tank is 6-12 mos old.
 
Your tank is very new, so be patience, I would start with small frags instead of whole colony. Your tank husbantry is fine, and your levels are good. The coraline are begining to take off is a good sign. make sure you have alot of random flow when you do SPS. The seios might not be enough.

some minor adjustment.

alk 11 might be a little high. I've found that when alk is at 7-8 and calcium at 420 my tank seem to have the best growth and color. When I was running alk @11 my tank seems to have more fatalities, now everything are thriving.

hope this help
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9257072#post9257072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flasher1
I was reading an article in the smithsonian magazine the other day about reef bleaching and they said that water temperature was a main factor in why the reefs were dying and bleaching. The lighting wouldnt necessarily cause the bleaching, it would cause the corals to turn brown. From what I have read, you are running anywhere from 750 to 1000 watts of lighting which is not nearly enough to keep sps in your tank. To keep sps in your tank you need at least 7 watts per gallon of metal halide lighting. That would put you at a minimum of 1470w. Take the temp of the water, there is a reason why corals can mostly exist in tropical environments.

If the temp is too low I would suggest getting a heater and if the water is too hot get a chiller or a fan for your sump.


I HAVE 3 250 WATT 10,000K IN THE MAIN DISPLAY! 210 GALLON AGA? I was told this is plenty for an sps tank??? I also run a chiller to maintain around 80 degrees temp? I don't think either one is the issue Im going through?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9257227#post9257227 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by northbay-reefer
Your tank is very new, so be patience, I would start with small frags instead of whole colony. Your tank husbantry is fine, and your levels are good. The coraline are begining to take off is a good sign. make sure you have alot of random flow when you do SPS. The seios might not be enough.

some minor adjustment.

alk 11 might be a little high. I've found that when alk is at 7-8 and calcium at 420 my tank seem to have the best growth and color. When I was running alk @11 my tank seems to have more fatalities, now everything are thriving.

hope this help


Thank you so much Ill work on getting my alk down....but seems like the calcium drops when its that low so I may need to add a little(calcium reactor)

My tank has been set up since July 2006 and its a fairly new tank...I guess Ive seen tanks that have been set up about as long as mine with thriving acros? Ill give it some time and start over with some frags...I have done the 10 for 199 through foster and smith about 5 months ago but I guess then I definately wasn't ready for any sps....Mabe Ill get the alk down and stable and try another frag order......or is there anyone you guys recommend better????
 
Check in the Sellers Forums on here. Most post pictures of their frag packs so it's usually WSIWYG. The bonus is .. these frags are from tank raised colonies ... they have grown and thrived in conditions that are just like yours.
 
I wonder still how foster and smith sell as many wild colonies and these guys get them to live???? I know most buy the colonies have established tanks....

what do most people do buy frags and watch them grow????I guess that would make sense
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9257546#post9257546 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hendersonracing
I wonder still how foster and smith sell as many wild colonies and these guys get them to live???? I know most buy the colonies have established tanks....

what do most people do buy frags and watch them grow????I guess that would make sense

A captive grown frag will generally grow much faster than a wild colony. You have an advatage with a coral that has been living in captivity for a period of time and in some cases a period of many years.
 
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