Why should you do water changes?
- Thread starter CRC88
- Start date
I think water changes pertain more to the type of tank your running and how mature it is. I have 2 tanks now, a biocube and 40 breeder. My biocube I dont sweat the water changes as it is softies and LPS.
But my other is a SPS dom tank. That one I feel it is more important to do my water changes. Between lower the nutrients and also restoring elements into. Sure I could does but then Id be at it everyday.
But my other is a SPS dom tank. That one I feel it is more important to do my water changes. Between lower the nutrients and also restoring elements into. Sure I could does but then Id be at it everyday.
While the necessity varies from system to system, there are a number of reasons that water changes are useful, and no reasons to not do them that I can see, aside from cost if that is a concern for you.
I change 1% daily slowly and automatically. It requires virtually no work (about 5 minutes once every 1-2 months to make a batch of salt water) and removes many things that have a tendency to build up with zero stress on anything. It also replenishes things which may have become depleted.
IMO, the question is best asked as " what is the best thing I can do?" rather than "what is the least I can do to have a decent reef tank?"
I change 1% daily slowly and automatically. It requires virtually no work (about 5 minutes once every 1-2 months to make a batch of salt water) and removes many things that have a tendency to build up with zero stress on anything. It also replenishes things which may have become depleted.
IMO, the question is best asked as " what is the best thing I can do?" rather than "what is the least I can do to have a decent reef tank?"
I think part of my theory is that in the natural ecosystem, everything is in equilibrium. Everything that is imported into the system, is also somehow exported, and oftentimes in multiple forms.
While I understand that we instantly start tipping the equilibrium in one direction once we put a fish in a closed loop system, there is always a biologic mechanism that is attempting to compensate for the reduced space. I read that in the ocean, the density of fish to water is something like 1 clownfish per 28,000 gallons, and while our systems come NOWHERE close to that, they still reach some sort of equilibrium.
From what I can tell, the equilibrium the systems reach with little input from us is tolerable to most fish, some LPS corals, and very few SPS corals. So depending on what your needs are, you can do as much or as little work as you want.
While I understand that we instantly start tipping the equilibrium in one direction once we put a fish in a closed loop system, there is always a biologic mechanism that is attempting to compensate for the reduced space. I read that in the ocean, the density of fish to water is something like 1 clownfish per 28,000 gallons, and while our systems come NOWHERE close to that, they still reach some sort of equilibrium.
From what I can tell, the equilibrium the systems reach with little input from us is tolerable to most fish, some LPS corals, and very few SPS corals. So depending on what your needs are, you can do as much or as little work as you want.
miyzfrider
New member
While I'm intrigued by the issue you brought up, so thanks for asking and thanks for the replies, I'd say your reasoning of a closed "balanced" system really isn't true. Tides in an ocean environment create natural water changes. So while creatures may thrive in the same bay or on the same reef spot for years, the water around them naturally rolls over due to wave action and tide changes. In addition, the pure number of organisms that balance with one another is huge compared to a closed system aquarium of any size. As a human, don't put me in a house, seal it completely from any new air, place a bunch of plants in hopes they take my CO2 and give me enough clean air, a small water treatment plant for my waste and drinking water and expect me to live very long. Yes, a large system like the bio-sphere may be possible, but I would bet the reality of that environment is that there are a lot of mechanical and artificial things in place to make the environment sustainable, more than what our simple pumps, filters and devices can do to replicate an ocean. So while some may be successful with no water changes, I'd have to guess that's not the norm and many more who have attempted that approach have failed than succeeded.
As to your comment about only having 5 gallon buckets, I'm with ya on that one. My solution, like many, was to go get a 35 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trash can from Lowes. That way I can mix at least 20 gallons at a time. I simply put a Hydor powerhead in there with a 200 watt heater so I can circulate and heat the water when I'm about ready to add it and while mixing. I have my container on some scrap wood pieces in my basement that makes it high enough so I could add a small hole on the side for a sipgot to drain the water into my bucket to take to the tank one at a time. It's not too bad and I have a flight of stairs to contend with. All total, my container, power head, heater and bulkhead for the drain cost around $100.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!"
As to your comment about only having 5 gallon buckets, I'm with ya on that one. My solution, like many, was to go get a 35 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trash can from Lowes. That way I can mix at least 20 gallons at a time. I simply put a Hydor powerhead in there with a 200 watt heater so I can circulate and heat the water when I'm about ready to add it and while mixing. I have my container on some scrap wood pieces in my basement that makes it high enough so I could add a small hole on the side for a sipgot to drain the water into my bucket to take to the tank one at a time. It's not too bad and I have a flight of stairs to contend with. All total, my container, power head, heater and bulkhead for the drain cost around $100.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!"
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jcw
New member
I copy a lot of what Randy does... 
Daily 2 gallon water changes on a 125g DT. Mine's not automatated, so it takes about 7.5 minutes to do. About the length of time I let the frozen food soak and melt in the vitamin and fatty acids supplement.
I remove water through the skimmer (put my finger over the air line and let the cup fill and empty into a gallon jug). Hands and floor never (usually) get wet, nothing gets shocked.
Yes, it might be a little tedious, but so is brushing your teeth.
My thought is that the ocean is constantly renewing itself and never stagnant, so why not your tank. (OK, I admit I don't know what the difference between old and new saltwater is.)
Daily 2 gallon water changes on a 125g DT. Mine's not automatated, so it takes about 7.5 minutes to do. About the length of time I let the frozen food soak and melt in the vitamin and fatty acids supplement.
I remove water through the skimmer (put my finger over the air line and let the cup fill and empty into a gallon jug). Hands and floor never (usually) get wet, nothing gets shocked.
Yes, it might be a little tedious, but so is brushing your teeth.
My thought is that the ocean is constantly renewing itself and never stagnant, so why not your tank. (OK, I admit I don't know what the difference between old and new saltwater is.)
1% per day here plus maintenance/cleaning for a total of about 40% per month. forthe main system. I run a leather mushroom euphylia tank separately and it thrives with less frequent changes.
Large changes up the odds of shocking the system or making an error in a critical parameter,imo and try to keep them at less than 10% .
Philisophically, no changes make the system more of a closed system and all closed biological systems die evenetualy.
In addition to nutreint export and major,minor and trace element additions,water changes help keep raitos among elements in balance over time.
Large changes up the odds of shocking the system or making an error in a critical parameter,imo and try to keep them at less than 10% .
Philisophically, no changes make the system more of a closed system and all closed biological systems die evenetualy.
In addition to nutreint export and major,minor and trace element additions,water changes help keep raitos among elements in balance over time.
atreis
New member
It really depends on how the system is set up. Yes, it's possible to setup a system that is designed for small water changes, and it's possible to setup a system that does best with weekly water changes.
My previous tank: 100g display, 40g sump, 75g gravity-drained (into the display) refugium. I did a 10% water change once every 6 months. It worked wonderfully. How? Why? Because of the huge 'fuge. I grew caulerpa in it (no, it never went sexual in 3 years time) and it would literally fill the 75 gallon tank in about 2 months time. I harvested it once a month. It worked extremely well for nutrient export, and the critter production also provided a nice additional food source for some of my fish. For calcium and trace minerals, I used a calc reactor and occasional dosing.
My current tank: 100g display, 30g sump which includes a tiny (~5g) 'fuge. I do weekly 5% water changes. Why? Because the 'fuge isn't nearly large enough to provide all of the nutrient export required of the system. On the other hand, with this setup I don't dose anything - the water changes are frequent enough and large enough to replace everything needed.
Both of these tanks have about the same (fairly high) fish load, and the same corals - mostly demanding SPS and anemones.
One thing to notice in the tank pictured earlier in this thread: the fish. In addition to having mostly nutrient-tolerant corals it also has a very low fish bio-load. That's another way to reduce the frequency of required water changes. Less fish ==> less fish food ==> less nutrients to be exported.
It's all in the sort of system you want to build.
My previous tank: 100g display, 40g sump, 75g gravity-drained (into the display) refugium. I did a 10% water change once every 6 months. It worked wonderfully. How? Why? Because of the huge 'fuge. I grew caulerpa in it (no, it never went sexual in 3 years time) and it would literally fill the 75 gallon tank in about 2 months time. I harvested it once a month. It worked extremely well for nutrient export, and the critter production also provided a nice additional food source for some of my fish. For calcium and trace minerals, I used a calc reactor and occasional dosing.
My current tank: 100g display, 30g sump which includes a tiny (~5g) 'fuge. I do weekly 5% water changes. Why? Because the 'fuge isn't nearly large enough to provide all of the nutrient export required of the system. On the other hand, with this setup I don't dose anything - the water changes are frequent enough and large enough to replace everything needed.
Both of these tanks have about the same (fairly high) fish load, and the same corals - mostly demanding SPS and anemones.
One thing to notice in the tank pictured earlier in this thread: the fish. In addition to having mostly nutrient-tolerant corals it also has a very low fish bio-load. That's another way to reduce the frequency of required water changes. Less fish ==> less fish food ==> less nutrients to be exported.
It's all in the sort of system you want to build.
a system that does best with weekly water changes.
Why would a system do better with infrequent large water changes as opposed to small water changes of equal total volume.?
Water changes are not a great way to control nitrogen and phosphorous ;there are many other ways , including large well lit and harvested macroalgae refugia.
Having said that, there is still an issue with organic carbon, the often overlooked nutrient which we can't measure with hobby grade equipment. High total organic cabon levels can be harmful. Caulerpa and other macroalgaes and other atotrophic organisms including corals don't export it ;they make it via photosynthesis and excrete it as algal exudate and various other secretions(slime, zooxanthelae expulsion, alelopathic compunds,spawns ,etc) form corals and other photosynthetic organisms.
I think weekly changes are fine,btw; but, don't think there is any reason to believe larger infrequent vs. smaller more frequent is better . Perhaps a bit more efficient but with a greater change to the water chemistry at any one time.;risks fo knocking something out of balance are higher with larger changes,imo.
Why would a system do better with infrequent large water changes as opposed to small water changes of equal total volume.?
Water changes are not a great way to control nitrogen and phosphorous ;there are many other ways , including large well lit and harvested macroalgae refugia.
Having said that, there is still an issue with organic carbon, the often overlooked nutrient which we can't measure with hobby grade equipment. High total organic cabon levels can be harmful. Caulerpa and other macroalgaes and other atotrophic organisms including corals don't export it ;they make it via photosynthesis and excrete it as algal exudate and various other secretions(slime, zooxanthelae expulsion, alelopathic compunds,spawns ,etc) form corals and other photosynthetic organisms.
I think weekly changes are fine,btw; but, don't think there is any reason to believe larger infrequent vs. smaller more frequent is better . Perhaps a bit more efficient but with a greater change to the water chemistry at any one time.;risks fo knocking something out of balance are higher with larger changes,imo.
eferna
Member
I hardly did water changes before because my tank was doing well and never needed to. I have started a new 90 gal build and do weekly water changes because there is a lot of crap that gets collected in the sump and needs cleaning. Fresh Clean Saltwater just seems so refreshing when adding it to your tank besides having the beneficial things to it.
Basically you keep much more stable conditions with weekly water changes IMO.
Basically you keep much more stable conditions with weekly water changes IMO.
karsseboom
New member
Water changes just stress out your tank. If your keeping sps and using zeovit or bio pellets there really isn't a huge need for water changes. I have stopped water changes and my sps grow faster and things are more stable.
Water changes just stress out your tank. If your keeping sps and using zeovit or bio pellets there really isn't a huge need for water changes.
That makes no sense. Extra bacterial growth from organic driven nuttrient export systems deplete other elements more not less. These elements are made up in part via water changes .
How would small frequent water changes" stress out your tank"? What does that mean? What happens to the tank ? What things are more stable?
That makes no sense. Extra bacterial growth from organic driven nuttrient export systems deplete other elements more not less. These elements are made up in part via water changes .
How would small frequent water changes" stress out your tank"? What does that mean? What happens to the tank ? What things are more stable?
I only have a 25 gal with about 10 LBS of rock about 2 inch fone sand bed. I have the same looking substrate as you little brownish in places have two power heads and a Rena Cal return movement everywhere. Is the is the brownish tint to sand normal It used to be real white. I has a sand sifting Gobie he kept it white as sugar. Can't keep them in the tank always on floor. Also have 20 hermits 10 or so snails 4 Nasarious sand still same.
Ronny
Ronny
angryurchin
New member
:lolspin:LMAO!:lolspin:
angryurchin
New member
Still laughing... Face hurts... Can't breathe...
Squidmotron
New member
I recently bought API's plutonium test kit, and discovered -- to my dismay -- that my plutonium levels are over 5! That can't be good for my SPS's!
It also explains why the Iranian government kept asking for my old water.
It also explains why the Iranian government kept asking for my old water.
To summarize a few advantages of water changes:
Beyond the standard parameters many of us can measure, water changes afford some stability in import and export of minor and trace elements including some toxic metals , organics including total organic carbon and the maintenance of various elemental ratios like chloride/sufate.
Beyond the standard parameters many of us can measure, water changes afford some stability in import and export of minor and trace elements including some toxic metals , organics including total organic carbon and the maintenance of various elemental ratios like chloride/sufate.
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