trueblackpercula
New member
Lol your the man my friend and its always good to hear from you. Love they way the tank is looking theses days and your yellow tang looks great.
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Wild and Maricultured SPS Reefers Thread
- Thread starter biggles
- Start date
Psionicdragon
New member
Beautiful. I am not sure how you get your wilds to color up or hold its color. My tank is like 97% wild/mariculture and some are browning 
biggles
Premium Member
Thanks Perc, the yellow flash looks great in amongst the acros, really pleased i added him. 
Psionicdragon, since you're keeping the same as most of us why don't you give us the details of your system and what's been happening so everyone can help sort out the problem. They could be browning from poor water, low light or lack of food so i'm sure we can put our heads together and work out why you're not seeing good colors.
I accidentally smashed the growing tip on this stag a few weeks back ( i do that a lot ) and it looks like the corallites at the new end can't work out who's going to be the axial tip......... Btw this is an example of a blue stag that is faded grey blue and quite dark and drab overall as you can see not far from the tip the color is crap, you can see the branch in the background is drab as hell. I've had it for 4-5 months and tried everything but i can't 'light' this one up and just accept the fact. The tips are glowing baby blue as in the pic which is the only reason it's still in the tank........for now.
Psionicdragon, since you're keeping the same as most of us why don't you give us the details of your system and what's been happening so everyone can help sort out the problem. They could be browning from poor water, low light or lack of food so i'm sure we can put our heads together and work out why you're not seeing good colors.
I accidentally smashed the growing tip on this stag a few weeks back ( i do that a lot ) and it looks like the corallites at the new end can't work out who's going to be the axial tip......... Btw this is an example of a blue stag that is faded grey blue and quite dark and drab overall as you can see not far from the tip the color is crap, you can see the branch in the background is drab as hell. I've had it for 4-5 months and tried everything but i can't 'light' this one up and just accept the fact. The tips are glowing baby blue as in the pic which is the only reason it's still in the tank........for now.
biggles
Premium Member
Damn mate that stuff is way better than anything i see at the stores, i think i seriously need to start getting to the stores the day after shipments arrive rather than a week later lol. That pinky red acro in the second last pic is super cool I hope you can keep the green away from the acro in the first pic, it'll be another stunner :thumbsup: I take it they're fresh arrivals judging by the washed out shipping colors. Damn you Rodney and your cool SPS sources........
I hope you can keep the green away from the acro in the first pic, it'll be another stunner :thumbsup: I take it they're fresh arrivals judging by the washed out shipping colors. Damn you Rodney and your cool SPS sources........Psionicdragon
New member
Sounds good. I'll give you the details below. I didn't want to hijack your thread.
100 Gal Truvu with 55 gal sump.
GFO, BioPellet Reactor
Bubble Magus dosing
Oversized Octopus Skimmer with Sicce pump
Alk 10-11,
Cal 450,
Mag 1350
Phosphate .01-.03
Nitrate 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
3 AI Vega (55-60% intensity), 2 T5 6500k and Blue Plus (added this weekend)
Fish:
3 Nahackyi Wrasse
3 Hooded Wrasse
1 Mystery Wrasse
1 Bicolor Anthias
2 Barletts Anthias
1 Red headed Wrasse
2 Cleaner Shrimps and a bunch of CUC
Light schedule:
1pm-11pm for LED
6 hours of t5
Actually to even think about it. I think all my sps are wild or mariculture. The frags were from mariculture/wild that were dying and glued onto pegs.
100 Gal Truvu with 55 gal sump.
GFO, BioPellet Reactor
Bubble Magus dosing
Oversized Octopus Skimmer with Sicce pump
Alk 10-11,
Cal 450,
Mag 1350
Phosphate .01-.03
Nitrate 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
3 AI Vega (55-60% intensity), 2 T5 6500k and Blue Plus (added this weekend)
Fish:
3 Nahackyi Wrasse
3 Hooded Wrasse
1 Mystery Wrasse
1 Bicolor Anthias
2 Barletts Anthias
1 Red headed Wrasse
2 Cleaner Shrimps and a bunch of CUC
Light schedule:
1pm-11pm for LED
6 hours of t5
Actually to even think about it. I think all my sps are wild or mariculture. The frags were from mariculture/wild that were dying and glued onto pegs.
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ProfessorChaos
New member
Daaaaamn! That's nice
MeanGreenEyes
New member
Subscribed. You guys seriously have me considering giving mari's another shot. I had a nice little collection of them going until aefw wiped me out a couple months ago.
I've heard that it's best to frag them off of their bases to avoid pests. What do you guys think?
Have those that have used the Bayer dip on these found that it browns them out?
Is anyone quarantining these since they're pest magnets?
Acclimation routines? I've heard from some that it's best to dip and place straight into the system from some stating that drip acclamation with these is too stressful. Then there are those that dip, drip & QT.etc. My lfs uses the dip, drip until ph & salinity match place in tank and I've noticed they whither away/don't survive long/brown out. So I'm curious on this one.
Sorry for the redundant questions, but these are issues I've discussed with local reef buddies and am very interested in hearing the general consensus on these issues.
I've heard that it's best to frag them off of their bases to avoid pests. What do you guys think?
Have those that have used the Bayer dip on these found that it browns them out?
Is anyone quarantining these since they're pest magnets?
Acclimation routines? I've heard from some that it's best to dip and place straight into the system from some stating that drip acclamation with these is too stressful. Then there are those that dip, drip & QT.etc. My lfs uses the dip, drip until ph & salinity match place in tank and I've noticed they whither away/don't survive long/brown out. So I'm curious on this one.
Sorry for the redundant questions, but these are issues I've discussed with local reef buddies and am very interested in hearing the general consensus on these issues.
The wild
I usally float them if they are shipped, for 15 minutes or so to get temp. close. Then mix a little tank water into thier water. then move them into the dip using tank water. I then dip for 15 minutes with bayer, rinse twice with tank water. Then start them low in the tank.The wild i move up gradually after a day or so. Check the colors and polyp extension, make sure look ok, before I move them.
Non of the wild colonies I've gotten have come with a base.
Maricultured
Let float for 15 minuets or so, place them in a bucket with the water they came with, run a small slow stream from tank for about 15 minuets, then follow same procedure for wild.They water the Maricultured, at least from the vendors I've been using, comes in a lot better than the wild.
I've got some maricultured as well, more lately. The have been coming in in good color and polyp extension.I havent taken any of the base unless it has something else I don't want, xenia etc.I try and leave the base if it is already encrusted.
I haven't have any corals brown up after a dip.
If I get them fom lfs, I use Maricultured technique
The last few batches of wild aussie I've gotten have been about 50/50. Some coming in great , the others really bleached out.
I do use the drip on fish.YMMV.
HTH's
Todd
I usally float them if they are shipped, for 15 minutes or so to get temp. close. Then mix a little tank water into thier water. then move them into the dip using tank water. I then dip for 15 minutes with bayer, rinse twice with tank water. Then start them low in the tank.The wild i move up gradually after a day or so. Check the colors and polyp extension, make sure look ok, before I move them.
Non of the wild colonies I've gotten have come with a base.
Maricultured
Let float for 15 minuets or so, place them in a bucket with the water they came with, run a small slow stream from tank for about 15 minuets, then follow same procedure for wild.They water the Maricultured, at least from the vendors I've been using, comes in a lot better than the wild.
I've got some maricultured as well, more lately. The have been coming in in good color and polyp extension.I havent taken any of the base unless it has something else I don't want, xenia etc.I try and leave the base if it is already encrusted.
I haven't have any corals brown up after a dip.
If I get them fom lfs, I use Maricultured technique
The last few batches of wild aussie I've gotten have been about 50/50. Some coming in great , the others really bleached out.
I do use the drip on fish.YMMV.
HTH's
Todd
reefmutt
Active member
Hey meangreen, I have yet to post any pics but I have several maris in my tank. They have not browned out at all, although some may have paled out a little. I just lowered the intensity on my Mitras to see if that helps at all..
My routine for adding corals, wether they are mari, wild or on line frags is to cut away ALL non living tissue and dip them in a solution of 10ml melafix per liter of tank water for 10 minutes. I do not lose any coals, nor do they brown out. I tried two little fishies dip for awhile but killed several deep water corals. The Melafix has been 100% survival and 100% kill rate for pests. Been using it for years ever since I had an outbreak of aefws.
I feel that the brown out is mostly due to higher nutrient levels in an aquarium than usually found in the wild.. Perhaps it's more complex than that but I think that this is the major reason..
My routine for adding corals, wether they are mari, wild or on line frags is to cut away ALL non living tissue and dip them in a solution of 10ml melafix per liter of tank water for 10 minutes. I do not lose any coals, nor do they brown out. I tried two little fishies dip for awhile but killed several deep water corals. The Melafix has been 100% survival and 100% kill rate for pests. Been using it for years ever since I had an outbreak of aefws.
I feel that the brown out is mostly due to higher nutrient levels in an aquarium than usually found in the wild.. Perhaps it's more complex than that but I think that this is the major reason..
Psionicdragon
New member
I agree. I usually have my phosphate close to zero, but sometimes it go up and down for whatever reason.
i.e. Saturday it was at .01 and Sunday it was at .03... lol
reefmutt
Active member
That's not much of a swing.. What do you use for testing po4?
The Hanna checker has a +/- .04 ppm accuracy rate, so technically, if you're using a checker, there may not be any swing at all..
reefmutt
Active member
Shoot! I missed this somehow..
Has your po4 always been there or have you been bringing it down?
You levels seem pretty good.. The only thing I would try altering is your alk..
I'd bring it down to around 7.5..
MeanGreenEyes
New member
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to pick up some Bayer and Melafix and ditch the CoralRX that I've been using.
I personally haven't had any browning out issues with them in my system. I plumbed in 2x 30g tanks as refugiums, run Pappone (contains sugar) through a d.i.y. continuous feeder for NPS/SPS, run skimmer, gfo and gac. My phosphates hover around .03 right before scheduled w/c's, so I'm able to feed heavy/continuously without issue.
I don't like chemical treatments and prefer a natural approach when possible, so while I attempt to starve out the aefw until Jan., I was debating/want to start collecting/QT'ing some mari pieces.
All of your input is helpful...hopefully other's will chime in as well as I look forward to seeing where this topic goes.
Reefmutt, I think I've gotten my light project adjusted to my liking, but I'll monitor. Thanks. I always light acclimate new pieces as well.
I personally haven't had any browning out issues with them in my system. I plumbed in 2x 30g tanks as refugiums, run Pappone (contains sugar) through a d.i.y. continuous feeder for NPS/SPS, run skimmer, gfo and gac. My phosphates hover around .03 right before scheduled w/c's, so I'm able to feed heavy/continuously without issue.
I don't like chemical treatments and prefer a natural approach when possible, so while I attempt to starve out the aefw until Jan., I was debating/want to start collecting/QT'ing some mari pieces.
All of your input is helpful...hopefully other's will chime in as well as I look forward to seeing where this topic goes.
Reefmutt, I think I've gotten my light project adjusted to my liking, but I'll monitor. Thanks. I always light acclimate new pieces as well.
Psionicdragon
New member
yup yup. Ph has always been there
I use a milwaukee phosphate tester (the big unit).
I left it around 10-11 because iirc back in the day, salifert has a +/- 2 Alk.
Psionicdragon
New member
I use reef version of Pine Sol (aka Revive lol).
Works pretty well. Got rid of some AEFW from some frags that I received.
Cool part is that my corals smell piney fresh after their bath!
Works pretty well. Got rid of some AEFW from some frags that I received.
Cool part is that my corals smell piney fresh after their bath!
Psionicdragon
New member
Don't mind the enchinata. It came in all beat up and then it had a ****ing contest with the other colony. Not as nice as the other posters, but came in as beautiful as theirs.
Psionicdragon
New member
Also, I noticed that I have no PE on a lot of these colonies. They are hidden
