I have about a dozen SPS frags in my frag rack working their way through light acclimation. My snails do not go on there much so I get some HA that grows on the frag plugs... Will that irritate my sps? I am not planning on getting any graisers until I make my blue zoo purchase next month and even then they will be in QT for a month...
Will Algae Irritate SPS Frags?
- Thread starter MHG
- Start date
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
I have a plug that has HA all over it and it doesn't seem to harm the frag. Unless it is so much that it is blocking the light.
What I would suggest is to make up some salt water in a small container, remove the plugs with the said algae and scrub the HA off in the small container. Remove as much as possible.
What I would suggest is to make up some salt water in a small container, remove the plugs with the said algae and scrub the HA off in the small container. Remove as much as possible.
Allmost
New member
Algae can take up Oxygen around the coral sufficating it.
it will also release chemicals to kill corals and take over the space.
as said above remove it, or at least blast it with a Power head often, HA seems to grab alot of detritus, trappign them and using their nutritions as they rott.
it will also release chemicals to kill corals and take over the space.
as said above remove it, or at least blast it with a Power head often, HA seems to grab alot of detritus, trappign them and using their nutritions as they rott.
CUNAReefer
New member
You may also want to research and fix the underlying issue that is causing your HA.
Good Luck!
James
Good Luck!
James
CUNAReefer
New member
Hi MHG,
I may be able to help. First, I do have a question about the algae. Is the hair algae dense and thick green algae, or is it thin short hair algae? I only ask because I experienced short thin hair algae in my zeo system when I took my phates and trates to a unhealthy 0/0 level for too long. It wan't until I added some phosphate and nitrate that the algae went away. Here is a interesting paragraph from the neo zeo guide that may be of some interest too you:
"One of the complaints often voiced by some aquarists using this method is that a
short, brownish film forms on static surfaces (as previously mentioned, it is most
prominent on aquarium panes and less so on live rock and sand) that detracts from
the overall appearance of what would otherwise be a “pristine” display. Ironically, the
film seems to be directly related to insufficient phosphate being present in the system.
The current theory, based on research recently presented in Nature, is that
cyanobacteria in phosphate-limited ecosystems can shift from the utilization of
phosphorus to sulfur and/or nitrogen compounds in their cellular tissue. Of greater
importance, in our opinion, is that in many cases the appearance of brown
cyanobacteria is an indication that the phosphate concentration in the system is too
low for long-term survival of corals."
This is my best guess without seeing an actual picture of the algae in the tank.
Warmest Regards,
James
I may be able to help. First, I do have a question about the algae. Is the hair algae dense and thick green algae, or is it thin short hair algae? I only ask because I experienced short thin hair algae in my zeo system when I took my phates and trates to a unhealthy 0/0 level for too long. It wan't until I added some phosphate and nitrate that the algae went away. Here is a interesting paragraph from the neo zeo guide that may be of some interest too you:
"One of the complaints often voiced by some aquarists using this method is that a
short, brownish film forms on static surfaces (as previously mentioned, it is most
prominent on aquarium panes and less so on live rock and sand) that detracts from
the overall appearance of what would otherwise be a “pristine” display. Ironically, the
film seems to be directly related to insufficient phosphate being present in the system.
The current theory, based on research recently presented in Nature, is that
cyanobacteria in phosphate-limited ecosystems can shift from the utilization of
phosphorus to sulfur and/or nitrogen compounds in their cellular tissue. Of greater
importance, in our opinion, is that in many cases the appearance of brown
cyanobacteria is an indication that the phosphate concentration in the system is too
low for long-term survival of corals."
This is my best guess without seeing an actual picture of the algae in the tank.
Warmest Regards,
James
" Allmost" wait... oxygen? I thought photosynthesys consumes co2...
"CUNAreefer" when i feed my corals my po4 does come up for about a day till the gfo knocks it back down... I do have that brown film but this is regular HA... I have cut way back on the zeo sups to see if the brown goes away.. the bumble bee snails seem to like it. not sure why but wherever they go, it is gone...
"CUNAreefer" when i feed my corals my po4 does come up for about a day till the gfo knocks it back down... I do have that brown film but this is regular HA... I have cut way back on the zeo sups to see if the brown goes away.. the bumble bee snails seem to like it. not sure why but wherever they go, it is gone...
CUNAReefer
New member
Hi MHG,
I now know exactly what you are doing because I have done the very same thing myself. First, I support and encourage your feeding. Feeding is how you keep a tank healthy when you strive to keep an ULNS. Matching the import and export with feeding and filtration is very important with a tank like yours. At one point, 0 phates and trates were all that was important to me. Take a look for yourself:
Algae with 0 trates and 0 phates
Waynes Rainbow as an example
As a full zeo user, I am able to keep green chaetomorpha (or in some cases green slime agae when I overfeed) when I feed. My algae never grows in size, but I can judge the overal health of my tank by the color of this softball size piece of algae. When I underfeed, my chaetomorpha turns grey and the green slime algae goes away. Please know that part of my feeding consists of amino acids high concentrate. I can eliminate my algae completely by lowering the feeding or not feeding at all, but I accept some algae as part of a healthy tank. When you raise your phosphates for a day, it is enough nutrient to keep your algae alive. All you need to do is play with your food amounts and you can solve your algae issue.
Good Luck,
James
I feed the AA also. I have two alga issues. My fraggs were getting fern like looking algae. if I put a snail on the frag rack he took care of it. but i comes back in short order. I also develomes dino when I started dosing AAHC, CV, XTRA Speacial according to the instructions. Now I cut way back to just weekly on the XTRA, every couple days on the AAHC, abd 3 times a week on the CV.... Daily scrubbing and dosing Peroxide seems to be helping the dino....
CUNAReefer
New member
Hey MHG,
When I combine my AAHC with Extra its a recipe for algae growth. If you REALLY want to see some algae develop quickly, start feeding ZEO Food (not that you would ever want to see algae develp quickly). You can cut back the dosing of the Extra and the AAHC to eleviate your algae issue. I only add the extra on days that I do not add the AAHC.
Warmest Regards,
James
When I combine my AAHC with Extra its a recipe for algae growth. If you REALLY want to see some algae develop quickly, start feeding ZEO Food (not that you would ever want to see algae develp quickly). You can cut back the dosing of the Extra and the AAHC to eleviate your algae issue. I only add the extra on days that I do not add the AAHC.
Warmest Regards,
James
acroholicreefer
New member
The biggest risk is that the algae will grow over the acro and prevent the tissue from preforming photosynthesis.
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