Will This Sump Work? Pics

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HEADCHEF1971

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WILL THIS SUMP WORK? I DONT WANTTO FLOOD THE FLOOR.
HOW DO I MAKE IT SO IT IS FLOOD PROOF?
IS THE REF. HIGHT TO HIGH OR TOO LOW OR OK?
DO I FEED IT WITH A SPRAY BAR OR A ABOVE WATER LINE PIPE OR BELOW WATER LINE PIPE?
RIGHT NOW ITS 3/4 INCH INTO A 1/2 INCH BALL VALVE AND PIPE IS THAT OK?
IS THE RETURN ARE (PUMP) GOOD , BIG OR TOO SMALL?
THE SUMP IS A 30X12X12 FOR A 58 GALLON OCEANIC WITH A MAG 5 PUMP? GOOD?
I NEED SOME FEED BACK . THIS IS REVISION # 3. IVE BEEN LEARNING ALOT. THANKS FOR THE HELP AND COMMENTS...
 
looks awesome actually :) thumbs up from me!


the only thing you could improve is adding a checkvalve to the return end... that way when you shut off the return pump the syphon is broken and you dont overflow your sump from your main tank or refugium... other than that it looks perfect.
 
THANKS. DOES THE CHECK VALVE REDUCE WATER FLOW? i am also planning to use flex pipe on the return to eliminate the 90 degree bends>... where can i get a 3/4 inch check valve???????? home depot ,, lowes?????????
 
no... i havent found any checkvalves at hardware stores. your best bet is probably either marinedepot or drsfostersmith

oh and the 90 degree elbows really wont hurt too much... i say leave it as is
 
I like to avoid check valves. They don't operate unless your main pump turns off, this often leaves them immobile for very long periods of time. Salt, calcium, algae eventually get to them, and when you need them to work, they don't. They offer a false sense of security.
A syphon break hole is a better option. They too, can be effected by salt, calcium algae but you can easily see them, and poke them out with something as you do regular maintenance.
I see a lot of ball valves. You should know that it's okay to restrict flow OUT of a pump, but not okay to restrict flow IN to your pump. If you have a ball valve between the tank drain and sump, don't use it. Restricting flow that way is just begging for your tank to overflow.
 
The siphon break that Larry mentioned is indeed better than a check valve. That would a small hole drilled in the return, on the inside the tank portion, usually just at the water line or slightly over the water line so you can see the small stream of water coming out to visually check the hole is clear. If you go with the hole above the water line, be sure and drill it so that it is angled down ;) BTW, I find that 1/4" drill bit is usually sufficient for siphon breaks. If you insist on a check valve, get a true union check valve so that you can remove and clean it monthly. Otherwise it will just jam open with biofilm after a few months of operation and be no more usefull than just a straight pipe.
 
they also sell clear check valves so you can see how they are doing... syphon breaks are fine, they just put a lot of bubbles into the water column when the pump is reactivated
 
May i add that I have 2 syphon break holes opposite each other just in case one does get clogged at the time of need...better safe then sorry IMO.
 
The syphon break holes can go in the overflow to reduce any bubbles. My only concern is the baffles, they seem a little high. My preference would be to lower the outside baffles to about half the height of the sump. That should almost eliminate the sump from overflowing if the power or pump fails.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7583498#post7583498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Conceyted
wow ... caps lock for dummies
Click to expand...


Not everyone is informed on Internet ettiquette. It's better to inform than belittle.

On the Internet, typing in all caps is equal to SCREAMING AT PEOPLE. (you can kinda see what I mean, right?)
I promise that we will hear you just fine if you release the caps lock ;)
 
The syphon break is just a small 1/4" hole drilled into the return pipe around the same height as the water level in your display. If you're using the All-Glass or Oceanic mega-flow kit the elbow for the loc-line has the hole pre-drilled for you, although many opt to make it larger because salt creep will clog it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7584087#post7584087 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DgenR8
Not everyone is informed on Internet ettiquette. It's better to inform than belittle.

On the Internet, typing in all caps is equal to SCREAMING AT PEOPLE. (you can kinda see what I mean, right?)
I promise that we will hear you just fine if you release the caps lock ;)
Click to expand...
oh i meant it in a joking way. I sincerely do apologise! I was at work typing on my phone and forgot the smiley face :)
 
well i forgot the cap locks. at work we inventory items in the store rooms in capital letters only. sorry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!anyway back to the story. how will lowering the baffles effect the working aspect of the sump. wont the water flow over the baffles???? this is the part i dont understand. arent you trying to let the water flow over and under? if it was lower how will it reduce bubbles and the effectiveness of the baffles? i hope i make sence. i lost myself on that one>>>>>lol>>>>> that is the part that is puzzling me. the height of the baffles . ive seen many other peoples sumps and refugiums and the all vary. real high with 1 - 2 inches of space between the top of the tank and the same for the bottom. then there are others that have there sumpwith 3-5 inches from the top and 2 inches from the bottom. im just not sure. is the height of the refugium ok. when the water flows out of the fuge is it necessary to have a baffle there to catch the bubbles??????????????????
 
Lowering the outside baffles should not hinder the bubble trap, you reduce the bubbles by pulling water from the bottom. The sump will work fine as you have it setup, the problem occurs when the main pump is stopped. The sump your running is a 20L right? So if you run the numbers you get the sump can hold about 1.5 gallons per inch, the 58 gallon holds about 2.75 per inch. So for every inch of water back siphoned you'll want about 3 inches in the sump. Say you loose 2 inches from the display you'll need 6 inches in the sump, in this system half the height. Plus in your sump you split the sump up for a fuge and that will require more space on the drain side.

Hope this made sense.
 
From your pictures looks like your water level in the left compartment with the skimmer will be too high for the skimmer to work properly. You also do not have enough capacity to hold the tank water in an event the main return pump is shut off, with or without check valve and siphon break, JMO..

6" baffle plates should give you enough water to keep the skimmer pump and main return pump submerged and operating nicely.
 
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