wooot winner winner chicken dinner

pssst... For future reference - you can call in and add to your order after you finalize your order with the Diver's Den item you wanted! From the website: "If you would like to order something else, do so after you have finalized your Diver's Den purchase. You can simply place a note in your order online during checkout that states, "Add this order to my previous Diver's Den order," and the shipping charge on your 2nd order will be adjusted (or phone in your order). "

Glad to see fish arrived healthy and happy! :)

Does that mean the 1st order placed on DD will qualify for free shipping if the two orders combine for over 225?
 
Would you guys still treat with prazi or cupramine if his nice and fat good color and eating good? Or just watch him for a few weeks? Didn't know if I should just treat him to be safe than add him or just watch for a few weeks.

FWIW, I have bought several fish from DD and I just observe them. Anything from the LFS is presumed infected and goes straight into treatment.

BUT observe for a minimum of 3 weeks. I try my best to wait 4-6 weeks but sometimes, I can't.


I am lucky to have a fully cycled, live rock filled observation tank with skimmer and sump and chaeto.

Makes observation much less stressful for me. I think the fish appreciate the natural cover as well.
 
FWIW, I have bought several fish from DD and I just observe them. Anything from the LFS is presumed infected and goes straight into treatment.

BUT observe for a minimum of 3 weeks. I try my best to wait 4-6 weeks but sometimes, I can't.


I am lucky to have a fully cycled, live rock filled observation tank with skimmer and sump and chaeto.

Makes observation much less stressful for me. I think the fish appreciate the natural cover as well.

Thats what he is in know but the rock isn't super live it was bulk reef supply dead rock. It was going to be setup as a FOWLR but my friend changed his mind and just kept it up for a QT tank. I might treat with prazi but not for sure this guy is one of the healthiest fish iv'e seen.
 
some more pictures.. Seems to pick at the rock but brian never seeded it with live rock so the tang doesn't have much to pick at good thing he likes mysis shrimp and nori sheets. What do you guys think about me transfering a piece of my rock to this tank while the tang is in it? Or should I just wait till his out?

Pics are under old blue plus bulbs and turned off afterwards fined it better to keep the tank a little dim. Did have him under a whiter light for a few seconds and his red pops out more.
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Still looks great! Is this your friends QT that you mentioned earlier? If so, I wouldn't add anything. Parasites can come in on LR and anything wet.
 
Still looks great! Is this your friends QT that you mentioned earlier? If so, I wouldn't add anything. Parasites can come in on LR and anything wet.

Yea its a 75g that was ment to be a fowlr never happend he got tired of seeing one sick fish and not being able to treat it the right way. And since he lives next door I take advantage of it I will admit
 
If your tank is free of disease and you friend doesn't mind, I don't think a piece of live rock could hurt.

It might not help that much either though. The live rock in the pics look like they have a fair amount of algae on them already.

I've posted this before (sorry if I sound like a broken record), but what I find best is that IF my display tank is healthy and mature, I take a gallon out of the DT to replace a gallon from the observation tank, replace the gallon from the DT with new saltwater. I do that daily.

A bit of work but you get good "healthy, mature" water constantly in the qt and brand new saltwater in dt.

However, if he is eating, I don't think it'll be much of a problem as long as you can get over there to feed him a couple times a day.


Beautiful fish.
 
The divers den page says this guy would max out at 11 inches, but there is no way that is correct, right? I was planning on getting a yellow eye kole tang, but I may have to wait on one of these beauties now!
 
The divers den page says this guy would max out at 11 inches, but there is no way that is correct, right? I was planning on getting a yellow eye kole tang, but I may have to wait on one of these beauties now!

I apologize on the error with the maximum size this species reaches as an adult. This beautiful species attains a maximum size of around 6.5" when mature. I have corrected our quick stats table to accurately list the maximum size of Ctenochaetus flavicauda.

Regards,
 
I apologize on the error with the maximum size this species reaches as an adult. This beautiful species attains a maximum size of around 6.5" when mature. I have corrected our quick stats table to accurately list the maximum size of Ctenochaetus flavicauda.

Regards,

Thats good and bad. The bad part being it would be sweet to see this guy almost a foot long awesome colors. Good part being I can take my time on upgrading.
 
If your tank is free of disease and you friend doesn't mind, I don't think a piece of live rock could hurt.

It might not help that much either though. The live rock in the pics look like they have a fair amount of algae on them already.

I've posted this before (sorry if I sound like a broken record), but what I find best is that IF my display tank is healthy and mature, I take a gallon out of the DT to replace a gallon from the observation tank, replace the gallon from the DT with new saltwater. I do that daily.

A bit of work but you get good "healthy, mature" water constantly in the qt and brand new saltwater in dt.

However, if he is eating, I don't think it'll be much of a problem as long as you can get over there to feed him a couple times a day.
Just curious. Why would the "mature water" do anything? it doesn't have any quantity of the needed cycle bacteria; that great stuff is in the LR & substrate, not the water column Adding "used" water to a QT can be fine; but if the QT isn't completely cycled, it will add organics that can contribute to ammonia---a common problem in a QT. However; if you're 100% sure that your DT is parasite free and the QT is well-cycled; its a great idea. I use DT water in my QT exclusively. It also makes acclimation to the DT easier.

Beautiful fish.
 
Thanks for the pics! Good to see he's doing well.

I bet he's a lot of fun to watch with the different colors on his lips, body, and tail.
 
I apologize on the error with the maximum size this species reaches as an adult. This beautiful species attains a maximum size of around 6.5" when mature. I have corrected our quick stats table to accurately list the maximum size of Ctenochaetus flavicauda.

Regards,

Please, please don't apologize! I am sorry if the question came off as accusatory, but I hope you know how much we all appreciate the excellent information as well as customer service that DFS has become known for! Thank you for the update, and I hope to see another fish of this species in the Divers Den soon!
 
Just curious. Why would the "mature water" do anything? it doesn't have any quantity of the needed cycle bacteria; that great stuff is in the LR & substrate, not the water column Adding "used" water to a QT can be fine; but if the QT isn't completely cycled, it will add organics that can contribute to ammonia---a common problem in a QT. However; if you're 100% sure that your DT is parasite free and the QT is well-cycled; its a great idea. I use DT water in my QT exclusively. It also makes acclimation to the DT easier.

Honestly, I don't know exactly.

But like you, I prefer to replace qt water with dt water. No Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates minimal, phosphates minimal, calcium, alk, mag all where I want.

One reason was newly mixed saltwater depending on brand could be too high in alk, calc, and maybe even ammonia. I thought it might have contributed to a few losses in qt/observation early on with IO salt.

Whenever I used dt water, the fish did great.
 
Honestly, I don't know exactly.

But like you, I prefer to replace qt water with dt water. No Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates minimal, phosphates minimal, calcium, alk, mag all where I want.

One reason was newly mixed saltwater depending on brand could be too high in alk, calc, and maybe even ammonia. I thought it might have contributed to a few losses in qt/observation early on with IO salt.

Whenever I used dt water, the fish did great.

I agree, and you seldom hear much about it. I'm convinced that fish don't do as well in 100% "new', sterile water as they do in"slightly used" water. I have no idea why; possibly the smell/ hormones/ whatever of other life.
 
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