Would love to hear opinions...

[Alex T.]

My tank has reached 2 years old now and I really am not happy with the rate at which sps coral growth is progressing. I use to dose vodka to bring nitrates and phosphates down however every three months or so a cyano outbreak would occur and I would run Slime Remover. I've since switched to MB7 and Biofuel. Things seem to be picking up, but hair algae developed and I've since installed a carbon/gfo reactor from Bulk Reef Supply to try and kill off the hair algae. My liverock seems to be the source of my problems. Every few months when I get the hair algae under control coralline starts growing like mad on the rear panel and on the liverock. Then, with nothing else changing the coralline slowly turns green on the rocks and a hair algae outbreak starts the cycle all over again with coralline slowly dying off.

My system:

1. 150 gallon 72 x 18 x 27 Display
2. 35 gallon sump with 2 filter socks (changed every 2 days) SRO XP 2000
skimmer and BRS Dual Carbon/GFO reactor (Carbon changed monthly/GFO
changed every three days until hair algae is under control)
3. Lighting consists of two 400 watt Radium bulbs in Galaxy
ballasts/Lumenmax Elite Reflectors with two 5 foot VHO Actinic Bulbs
running on ARO Ballasts (Halides on for 7 hours and Actinic on for 10)

My parameters:

1. SG: 1.025 - 1.026 (Reef Crystals)
2. Ca 420 - 440
3. Magnesium: 1350 - 1400
4. dKH: 7 - 8
5. Ph: 8.0 - 8.2
NO3: 0 - .2 (Salifert)
PO4: No idea...don't trust my kits which read zero
Flow: Iwaki 30 with @ 900 GPH and 4 Vortech MP40's on alternating Reef Crest Random Mode (flow's not an issue)

Livestock:

1. Sohal Tang (4 inches)
2. Yellow Tang (5 inches)
3. Christmas Wrasse (4 inches)
4 . (3) Chromis
5. (1) Blue Devil Orangetail damsel
6. (1) Sixline wrasse
7. (1) Sebae Clownfish
8. (1) Crocea Clam
9. (2) Derasa Clams

Feeding:

AM: 1 cube Mysis and small pinch of NLS pellets
PM: Same as AM


I have about 20 frags and mini colonies of SPS corals...no LPS and one zoanthid colony.

I evaporate close to 4 gallons a day so I'm able to keep calcium and alkalinity in check with simple Kalkwasser Dosing from a still reservoir for now.

Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[stangchris]

i had the same prob as my tank hit about 1 1/2, so last year i jumped into the BioPellet craze. ive been very happy with it, at the moment i still run a fuge with just cheato, and a reactor with GFO and Carbon.
the thing with the pelletes is you gotta keep an eye on tumble make sure there is enough flow. keep plates clean and pellets toppped off as they do disolve.

 

[250G]

After giving a read the following comes to mind:

Is just the kalk being used to top-up evaporation? In the event evaporation fluctuates (which it will for many reasons) calcium/alk levels will be inconsistent. This being said, it appears your tank does not have substantial calcium demands as it is lightly stocked (corals use calcium, not gallons). If you are not doing 2 part on a daily basis or running a calcium reactor, it's tough to know you have consistent levels.......and that impacts growth.

 

[allsps40]

I agree with 250G, sounds like a stability problem. For me kalk in the top off works very well to keep things stable but it does not work for everyone. I would switch to a doser and 2 part.

 

[Alex T.]

Ok, my mistake. I should have noted that about twice a week I dose Reefbuilder from Seachem for alkalinity. However the calcium demand
(even with the clams and SPS load) is met with just water changes and kalk top off. My parameters don't budge much at all from what I've listed. I'm always between 7 - 8 in alkalinity even with a large water change.

 

[29reef]

I still agree that it's likely something that is running out. Your comment about your coraline growing then stopping , and eventually dying is an indicator that something isn't right. You need to break that cycle and keep everything in check. It might be magnesium that is lacking. Corals won't calcify if magnesium is depleated IIRC. For me the easiest indicator of health is growth tips. The more you get and the longer you keep them going the more successful you'll be.

 

[allsps40]

^ plus 1

 

[meshwheel]

You cannot run a GFO reactor accurately WITHOUT a low range phosphate test kit! Period! Purchase a Hanna "Checker". Sounds like the GFO is getting exhausted, then as the levels go back up, you start having problems.
You evaporate 4 gallons a day?? Where is the make-up water coming from? Is it RO DI water??? I would check this water as well with the phosphate checker.

 

[Alex T.]

All make-up water is RO/DI, 4 stage Kent High S unit. Prefilters are changed out at 6 month intervals.

 

[Reef Bass]

Your tank setup and general reported water parameters sound good.

That hair algae is going through cycles to me suggests variation in availability of phosphates, possibly from variations in feeding or your gfo is depleting more frequently than it is being changed, as meshwheel suggests.

 

[toothman]

I have a 400 gal tank and think the same thing. I would take a strong powerhead or mag pump and blow all the rocks off and run a clean sock. You really will be surprised how much detritus is in the nooks of the rocks and spaces. I personally at 2 years took each rock and shook it in a garbage can of tank water and replaced them, the tank instantly worked better. Just a thought.

 

[Alex T.]

I wish it were that easy Toothman. All my rocks are encrusted with SPS corals. I might make things worse. I do run filter socks occasionally after I blast the rocks with a turkey baster. Part of me thinks I need a large amount of GFO that just needs to be changed every few days or so until things are under control.

Some have stated that stability or something else is lacking. If it is...I'm at a loss. The parameters I listed haven't budged in over a year.

 

[Alex T.]

I wish it were that easy Toothman. All my rocks are encrusted with SPS corals. I might make things worse. I do run filter socks occasionally after I blast the rocks with a turkey baster. Part of me thinks I need a large amount of GFO that just needs to be changed every few days or so until things are under control.

Some have stated that stability or something else is lacking. If it is...I'm at a loss. The parameters I listed haven't budged in over a year.

 

[RynosReef]

Well to me the big unknown from you original post is the phosphate level. What is it and what are you using to test for it. Also do you have a sponge filter in your sump somewhere between the baffling? This can be a huge contributor to stored up waste feeding nuisance algae

 

[meshwheel]

AlexT,
Does not make a difference if the filters are changed out every six months. If the water running through the reactor is hard water(And not softened first) the DI cartridge will last all of about 2 months max! If your lucky it will last that long.
To start I would do the following:
Purchase a Phosphate Hann checker. Test the tank water as well as the water coming out of the RO DI unit.
I would also purchase a TDS Digi meter to hook to your RO DI unit. Test both. Are you pumping city water through the RO DI unit? Or well water?

 

[reefinder]

Honestly i think you goin WAY overboard with the mb7 and biofuel plus reactor. I Alot of people on this site say zero phosphates no nitrates will make a beautiful system but honsetly thats crap. Relax your tank is still new only 2 years and it will go through algea cycles. Cut the chemicals out of your system and run a good gfo/carbon with an adequate skimmer and you will be okay. Growth will come be patient try not to put your hands and cheicals other than the basics in the tank