<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7699241#post7699241 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by samtheman
More than half the homes in the US have been built with PVC plumbing and so are not grounded. GFCI's are required because thay are a safety device. Bathtub grounding is not required as it does not enhance safety.
Try again. You can ground your tub if you want, just don't claim that it is a safety device.
Um, yeah. That why I was a smartass when I answered your questions before. I am the stupid electrical engineer who refuses to trade off the safety of my fish and corals for the marginal increase in safety a ground probe would add to my person, remember? A ground probe + no GFCI = dead fish and corals on the first equipment failure.
The GFCI is required as a safety issue near water. It should be a code issue to require it on all Aquarium circuits. In fact, I think I'll submit that as a change in the 2008 NEC. Probably not applicable there, though, any more than requiring GFEP receptacles in bedrooms was (and will be replaced by other code requirements in 2008). But at least I'll get some credit for it if I do an intelligent write-up.
It is correct that this is not subjective. Electricity works exactly as it would and is 100% predictable whether you "believe in it or not". No ground (you or intentional probe or an exposed hot
and neutral wire), and NO CURRENT FLOWS. There is no such thing as "stray current". It is a myth to explain the mysterious things that people don't understand. If you do not have a difference in potential, no electrons move. Just like a 1000 ton rock won't roll if it is sitting on solid, flat ground. Lot of power there, but it only does work if you roll it off the cliff and create a difference in potential. On an equipment failure in your tank, the voltage in the tank will rise to 120 Volts above ground potential at pretty much every point with no current flow except the initial minimal "charging" to bring it up to that potential. It then just sits there waiting for you to stick your hand in. No current flow occurs until you do. If you do stick your hand in, then that voltage divided by the sum of the resistances of the path between the exposed hot wire and the neutral bonding point in your power panel will determine the magnitude of current flow. If you add a ground probe, this gives you a very low resistance path back to the panel -- but still not likely large enough to trip a 20 Amp breaker (which trips at 16 Amps over a few minutes to an hour or two up to a few seconds at some point over 20 Amps). The current flow over a few hours or days will cook your tank.
That is why I say a GFCI, which operates at a difference of 5 milliamps current flow in the neutral and hot wires, is highly recommended equipment for an aquarium -- and an absolute must should you decide to use a ground probe (which I do not). The only way to be safer personally than using GFCI protection, I feel, is to develope the habit of turning off your pumps and heaters before you stick your hand in the tank. Or at the very least don't stand on a concrete floor (or wet carpet over a concrete floor) in bare feet.