Wrasse disease ID, take 2

[jaybfresh]

A couple weeks ago I received this Carpenter's flasher wrasse in rough shape. He barely moved and did not eat for several days. He developed a spot on his head that some here felt might have been Uronema marinum based on some poor pictures I posted.

Now he is much more active with a great appetite. I don't believe it is Uronema based on other pictures of the disease. He has no symptoms now other than this spot, which is whiteish in color on the head, and extends slightly to a browinish spot on top of the eye. It's whiter and more pronounced than shown in the picture. I've treated with Cuprmarine and Maracyn 2, but have not tried formalin. He did have one freshwater dip that he did not handle well at all. Any ideas on what may be causing this infection?

 

[GTR]

I'd go with bacterial infection generally speaking. After two weeks just about any "disease" would have spread.
Btw, I've never meet a wrasse that liked freshwater dips of any duration. I usually dip them in treated SW.

 

[jaybfresh]

Thanks for your input, and lesson learned on the freshwater dip. Should I treat with Maracyn 2 again or is there a better medication available?

 

[csilverio]

I'd go with bacterial infection generally speaking. After two weeks just about any "disease" would have spread.
Btw, I've never meet a wrasse that liked freshwater dips of any duration. I usually dip them in treated SW.

Hello,

I know wrasses don't like freshwater dips, but can you explain what do you mean by: treated SW?

Thank you

 

[GTR]

I do a lot of dips with SW and prazi or hydrogen peroxide, 10 minutes to several hours. I do the same with some antibiotics, all several hours. I can't treat the whole system with some meds due to the size and load.

 

[ThRoewer]

What do you mean with wrasses not liking freshwater dips?
I doubt any saltwater fish really likes being "dumped" into a bucket with freshwater but I doubt 5 minutes will kill or even harm them (unless they are still tiny babies).
Many fish like to put up a show, playing dead, lying on their side and the like when first placed in freshwater but should recover quickly and then behave rather normal.
The only alarming sign would be excessive jumping to get out.

 

[GTR]

I doubt a 5 minute dip is going to do much. Almost all fish hit the bottom of the tub when first added to freshwater. Those that tolerate it well will shorty resume normal behavior for a fish surrounded by 4 dark walls. lol
IMO anything less than 8-10 minutes is useless. In a well prepared freshwater dip I can go upwards of 15 minutes with clowns, damsels, tangs, butterflies and angels without losses attributed to the dip. I've killed wrasses and anthias in half that time. Don't even consider dipping a good size harlequin tusk unless you have a piece of plywood and a stack of cinder blocks to cover them. lol

 

[jaybfresh]

Maybe he was weakened from infection, but with this particular wrasse I was not comfortable going past 2 minutes. I believe it set back any recovery he was having for a couple days afterwards.

 

[ThRoewer]

Well there certainly are fish that may not handle it well or are to dangerous to even try. I would for sure not want to dip a lionfish.

As for the time - some articles and books say 3 to 5 minutes is sufficient but I usually go up to 15 minutes if the fish shows no signs of distress.

As for this wrasse, If it doesn't get worse or is actually healing and the fish shows no other signs of being sick like heavy breathing, not eating, reclusiveness,... I would just leave him alone.
Almost 4 weeks ago my fridmani female developed a gashing hole in her side. But in all this time she didn't show signs of discomfort or being sick so I didn't catch her out of the DT for treatment (not that I would have known against what) and let her handle it herself. At some times the hole looked so deep that I didn't think she would make it.
But the last few days the hole started closing and today only some discoloration indicates where the hole was.
I think I would have lost her if I had put her into a HT and started treating her on a guess what it may be.

Sometimes it is better to leave the fish alone and handle it by themselves. Often all they need are good water conditions and healthy food.

 

[csilverio]

I doubt a 5 minute dip is going to do much. Almost all fish hit the bottom of the tub when first added to freshwater. Those that tolerate it well will shorty resume normal behavior for a fish surrounded by 4 dark walls. lol
IMO anything less than 8-10 minutes is useless. In a well prepared freshwater dip I can go upwards of 15 minutes with clowns, damsels, tangs, butterflies and angels without losses attributed to the dip. I've killed wrasses and anthias in half that time. Don't even consider dipping a good size harlequin tusk unless you have a piece of plywood and a stack of cinder blocks to cover them. lol

Hello again,

I usually follow the same procedure (10-12 minute dips) and as you said I had a few months ago a bad experience dipping a harlequin tusk, so if possible I would like to understand a little better the method you use for preventive dippings in wrasses.

I don't quarantine fish, but I usually like to dip them before put them in DT.

I also agree with you when you say that anthias don't support well freshwater dips.

Thank you