Your Electrician Here

[Billybeau1]

Who said anything about continuous 3500 watts. I highly doubt his figure is continuous, rather maximum at start up. I could be wrong but most manufacturers error on the side of caution and there is a big difference between start up amps and continuous.

My current system with 3 motors, a heater (on), an air pump and lighting is drawing 435 watts or about 3.75 amps. I find it hard to believe that anything added to my system will draw a continuous 3500 watts.

 

[cmbspd]

I have a relatively standard 2x250w MH, 4x54wT5 + moonlight light that came with a used tank setup. It has no brand name on it. Each type of light has its own switch on the fixture. The one downside is that the MH and T5s operate off of the same power cord so that I cannot operate them on separate timers to get the dawn/dusk and crazy coral fluorescence. I'm a moderate electrical novice so I can safely follow standard wiring instructions (can rewire standard outlets with pigtails GFCI and follow a diagram to figure out how to add in a light switch for instance), but I'm no expert and there were a ton of wires when I opened up the hood - most of which were covered with a generic white insulation sleeve. I would like to rewire if I get to the point of really understanding the setup.

Would it be easier/better to:

1) try to install separate power cords for the MH & T5? I think that I have a rough idea of what the circuit should look like now, but figuring which wires are which will take a lot of effort.
2) or try to figure out how to incorporate the timer into the on/off switches in the hood. I think that this would only necessitate figuring out how to interrupt the hot wire that leads from a particular switch with some sort of timer but I'm not sure if this is as safe or easy as it sounds.

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[BeanAnimal]

Who said anything about continuous 3500 watts. I highly doubt his figure is continuous, rather maximum at start up. I could be wrong but most manufacturers error on the side of caution and there is a big difference between start up amps and continuous.

My current system with 3 motors, a heater (on), an air pump and lighting is drawing 435 watts or about 3.75 amps. I find it hard to believe that anything added to my system will draw a continuous 3500 watts.

My small 75 gallon tank:

  140W return pump
  110W CL pump
  100W skimmer pump
  400W Halides
1000W heater
   60W Actinic
   50W powerheads (filtration, etc)
   40W air pump
  150W Fuge lighting

That is about 2000W plus inrush so for my purposes (2) branch circuits are needed for reliable operation of the equipment. I chose to use (3) circuits to help isolate critical equipment and hedge against a fault bringing down the entire system

It is never a bad thing to spread equipment over several branch circuits

 

[Billybeau1]

I see the numbers Bean, but, put an amp probe on your circuit and see what it is actually drawing. I think you'll be surprised.

I do agree with your splitting up circuits logic though. For a number of reasons.

 

[Billybeau1]

I have a relatively standard 2x250w MH, 4x54wT5 + moonlight light that came with a used tank setup. It has no brand name on it. Each type of light has its own switch on the fixture. The one downside is that the MH and T5s operate off of the same power cord so that I cannot operate them on separate timers to get the dawn/dusk and crazy coral fluorescence. I'm a moderate electrical novice so I can safely follow standard wiring instructions (can rewire standard outlets with pigtails GFCI and follow a diagram to figure out how to add in a light switch for instance), but I'm no expert and there were a ton of wires when I opened up the hood - most of which were covered with a generic white insulation sleeve. I would like to rewire if I get to the point of really understanding the setup.

Would it be easier/better to:

1) try to install separate power cords for the MH & T5? I think that I have a rough idea of what the circuit should look like now, but figuring which wires are which will take a lot of effort.
2) or try to figure out how to incorporate the timer into the on/off switches in the hood. I think that this would only necessitate figuring out how to interrupt the hot wire that leads from a particular switch with some sort of timer but I'm not sure if this is as safe or easy as it sounds.

Any advice is appreciated!

I like your second idea. That way you do not compromise the system. Just make sure to use the same wire size.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I see the numbers Bean, but, put an amp probe on your circuit and see what it is actually drawing. I think you'll be surprised.

I do agree with your splitting up circuits logic though. For a number of reasons.

Most people would laugh if they knew how often I ran around with the Fluke 335 in hand ... I just did it again to size a whole house genset

 

[cmbspd]

I like your second idea. That way you do not compromise the system. Just make sure to use the same wire size.

Thanks. I agree that this is probably the way to go. Advice on what sort of timers could be wired in?

Here is my situation again
-----
I have a relatively standard 2x250w MH, 4x54wT5 + moonlight light that came with a used tank setup. It has no brand name on it. Each type of light has its own switch on the fixture. The one downside is that the MH and T5s operate off of the same power cord so that I cannot operate them on separate timers to get the dawn/dusk and crazy coral fluorescence. I'm a moderate electrical novice so I can safely follow standard wiring instructions (can rewire standard outlets with pigtails GFCI and follow a diagram to figure out how to add in a light switch for instance), but I'm no expert and there were a ton of wires when I opened up the hood - most of which were covered with a generic white insulation sleeve. I would like to rewire if I get to the point of really understanding the setup.

Would it be easier/better to:

1) try to install separate power cords for the MH & T5? I think that I have a rough idea of what the circuit should look like now, but figuring which wires are which will take a lot of effort.
2) or try to figure out how to incorporate the timer into the on/off switches in the hood. I think that this would only necessitate figuring out how to interrupt the hot wire that leads from a particular switch with some sort of timer but I'm not sure if this is as safe or easy as it sounds.

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[kicbox89]

Ok, I have double 48" retro t5. Can I make each into 2 24" t5's?

 

[uncleof6]

Ok, I have double 48" retro t5. Can I make each into 2 24" t5's?

No. T5 ballasts are application specific. You would need two 24 watt ballasts.

Jim

 

[ebacon]

I have a arctic 1/3 hp chiller that up till yesterday worked flawlessly. I made some plumbing modifications and now the chiller trips the gfic. I. Suppose it is possibble some water got into the back of the unit but it has been unplugged for 24 hours and still trips the gfi. What does this mean exactly. Can it be fixed or is it toast? I know basically it means there is an uneven balance in the unit but how could I go about correcting?

 

[Dactylopterus]

Do I have stray voltage?

Do I have stray voltage?

I've used two methods to measure stray voltage:

-AC V reads 24,3 Volts, 50 V with the heater ON
-mA- even µA, reads 00,0 mA

Which one of the two methods is correct to know if I have stray voltage?

Do I have a problem when the meter reads 50 V?

Can anyone explain me?

Thanks,

 

[Davidmmeyers]

Hi. Newbie here.
I have a deep fish only tank (30 in deep ). 180 gallon tank. So i was thinking about lighting it with lighting metal hallide is the way to go,, 48 inches wide by the way... S.. When I look up lighting I see lots warehouse applications for metal hallid and t-5 too. Why does "fish tank lightning" cost so much and "warehouse lighting" cost so much less. is the a difference.. Why can't I use a warehouse light for my tank..it is an "in wall"in a dr office. no one will see ..neat an issue.? Hmm...help..... Thanks david

 

[BeanAnimal]

David... Welcome to Reef Central.

You are going to need to start your own thread in the proper forum (new to the hobby) if you expect to get an answer. If you have never used an online forum, it may be best if you spend a little time browsing around and learning how things work. In general, posts are organized by subject and you have posted in a DIY forum where you are not likely to get much help.

I will ask that a mod move your post so that it will be answered.

 

[jkienzpac]

wiring a gfci to a wall switch

wiring a gfci to a wall switch

Can a gfci receptacle be directly powered from a wall switch in order to turn that receptacle on and off?

eg. a gfci receptacle to power a pump. I want to be able to turn the pump on and off with a basic wall switch. Can a ( non gfci) hot wire go directly to the switch then to the line side of the gfci receptacle, to power the receptacle on and off? I heard somewhere that the gfci should not be wired in this fashion but don't recall why. Maybe something about the power going through the gfci first.
If this is the case should I first run the hot to the gfci line side then run the load side to a switch then a second receptacle?

Is this one reason to use a blank face gfci if i wasn't going to use the first gfci receptacle for anything?

planning on several circuits and multiple gfci's, for pumps, chiller etc.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[BeanAnimal]

Can a gfci receptacle be directly powered from a wall switch in order to turn that receptacle on and off?

Yes

eg. a gfci receptacle to power a pump. I want to be able to turn the pump on and off with a basic wall switch. Can a ( non gfci) hot wire go directly to the switch then to the line side of the gfci receptacle, to power the receptacle on and off?

YES

I heard somewhere that the gfci should not be wired in this fashion but don't recall why.

Some specific GFCIs are designed to trip and require manual reset when they lose power.

Maybe something about the power going through the gfci first.

The switch (and any other devices on the LINE side are NOT protected.

If this is the case should I first run the hot to the gfci line side then run the load side to a switch then a second receptacle?

That is an option if you want the switch (wet hands?) protected as well.

Is this one reason to use a blank face gfci if i wasn't going to use the first gfci receptacle for anything?

YES that is a possible choice.

[qupte]planning on several circuits and multiple gfci's, for pumps, chiller etc.[/quote] A well advised option.

 

[uncleof6]

Can a gfci receptacle be directly powered from a wall switch in order to turn that receptacle on and off?

eg. a gfci receptacle to power a pump. I want to be able to turn the pump on and off with a basic wall switch. Can a ( non gfci) hot wire go directly to the switch then to the line side of the gfci receptacle, to power the receptacle on and off? I heard somewhere that the gfci should not be wired in this fashion but don't recall why. Maybe something about the power going through the gfci first.
If this is the case should I first run the hot to the gfci line side then run the load side to a switch then a second receptacle?

Is this one reason to use a blank face gfci if i wasn't going to use the first gfci receptacle for anything?

planning on several circuits and multiple gfci's, for pumps, chiller etc.

Thanks,

Jeff

Not with the newer ones. With the newer ones, if power is removed, the GFCI will trip. This includes turning it off with a switch. It will become annoying at best, to have to reset the GFCI every time you turn the switch back on. The only way to do this, is to install a GFCI breaker, and control a standard outlet with a switch on that circuit. Or load the switch off the GFCI (bean beat me to the draw)

Be aware of the code requirements, with GFCI installations. Most GFCIs are now required by the manufacturer to be installed in an "in-use" cover when installed out doors or in any other wet location. The AHJ will determine if your aquarium constitutes a wet location. To not install a listed device in accordance with the instructions is a violation of NEC 110.3(B). This code section also pertains to such things as multi outlet assemblies........ for those that may tune in.


NEC 110.3(B) All electrical equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with the listing requirements and manufacturer’s instructions.

 

[Nexenn]

Trying to wire this up for a DIY kalk Stirrer

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-GM22.html

Was going to get a 6vDC converter and wire a potentiometer to it so I could control it between 1.5V and 6V to control the speed. What would be the best pot to buy from radioshack? I have a hard time figuring out what ohms I need. What equation could I use to determine what pot to use in other circumstances?

Thanks in advance

 

[BeanAnimal]

Not with the newer ones. With the newer ones, if power is removed, the GFCI will trip.

It is my understanding that this is still ONLY on specific models labeled as such. It appears that if there was a push by the NFPA for this, there was enough push-back that it is not going to happen. Nobody wants to run around a facility and reset GFCIs every time there is an outage, and in many cases such an act is a safety concern for lighting, access control and other processes that should auto restart but by code MUST be GFCI or AFCI/GFCI protected.

I do know that OSHA approved portable GFCIs MUST be reset after a power outage. This is for portable power tool safety (and a PITA).

Be aware of the code requirements, with GFCI installations. Most GFCIs are now required by the manufacturer to be installed in an "in-use" cover when installed out doors or in any other wet location. The AHJ will determine if your aquarium constitutes a wet location. To not install a listed device in accordance with the instructions is a violation of NEC 110.3(B). This code section also pertains to such things as multi outlet assemblies........ for those that may tune in.

That is another whole can of worms... But the NEC/AHJ has no jurisdiction for and user cord and plug utlization devices. So if there is any concern, then you simply BUILD your own cord and plug power snakes that PLUG into an existing receptacle or receptacles.

FWIW, I have an antire case of RED DOT bubbles sitting next to me, waiting for the new NEMA control panel upgrade...

NEC 110.3(B) All electrical equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with the listing requirements and manufacturer's instructions.

They have no jurisdiction over end user devices, thus the section can really only be applied at the time of construction, and to hard wired equipment

 

[jkienzpac]

thanks guys,

Since I'm going to have a dedicated circuit for my return pump and want to have the switch protected as well, would a gfci breaker be more reliable than a gfci receptacle or a blank face gfci. My only thought was I didn't want to run out to breaker box if gfci trips, but if more reliable I would consider running a gfci breaker switch.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Then all your "eggs" are in one basket. Any single faulting device (or a nusiance trip) will bring down the whole tank. It is a much better idea to protect devices singly or in groups by using multiple GFCIs.