Re: Zeovit SPS reefs
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8890158#post8890158 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishfanatic06
I am probably going to start running the zeovit system on my tank and I was wondering what your experiences are with the zeosystem. Is there any huge downside to running this stuff? How has the growth and color of your sps improved from running it?
Thank you
for your replies!
I dont know if this is helpful - but here's my take on zeovit in a little more detail. Hopefully other zeousers can add to it:
You can observe the effects - but the whole product range is quite complex, so the key is understanding the system and observing cause and effect, and know what remedial actions to take which requires a substantial discipline to dose one element at a time and in moderate amounts as per the guide or less if the reef is not heavily stocked.
Zeoheads recommend high and exacting levels of SPS husbandary. This should be enough to get the best out of SPS right? Zeo has to prove itself over and above these standards as the acid test of its worth. If one is the type that spends a shed load of money and sees good results in even the feintest glimmer of a change, you are going to be happy. I'm the type that spends shed loads of cash, and goes hyper critical
Here is how the system breaks down:
Nutrient reduction:
All the usual husbandary ie intensive skimming, water change with RO/RI moderate feeding.
The zeo element is to also provide a biological/chemical filter in the zeo-reactor which both reduces nutrients and provides bacteriaplancton. The use of zeolites for this has caused some controversy and the flow rate through the reactor appears critical, as too high a rate is said to cause TN by stripping out nutrients too quickly.
The other feature of the 'basic 4' is the use of regular ballanced bacteria innoculations, bacteria food, and a carbon source. The theory is that in a closed system the bacterial guild become unballanced over time with some bacs becoming dominant and some dying out. You could argue that the bacs that die out do so for a reason, as they dont have the conditions to thrive, however what isnt clear is the role of these weaker bacs as a plancton food source for other inhabitants.
I remain unsure of the value of the zeolites. Its unclear to me what the advantage is of these compared to letting the bacs /skimmer to all the work innutrient reduction. I wonder if its would be as effective to use similar sizes of LR in a zeo reactor to host the bacs.
Regarding the bacs - I have used both Prodibio and zeo bacs, and both have resulted in measurable reductions in NO3 and PO4.
The end result of the use of zeobasic 4 (zb4) is a nutrient limited enviroment, resulting in alage die back including the symbiotic zoos in sps. I can vouch for this IME. The result of symbiotic die back is that underlying color can be seen. However, left at that there is a risk that sps become so nnutrient deprived that they start to bleach - hense the importance of alternative feeding:
Alternative feeding:
Mulm :Shaking the zeolite daily (or LR pieces I would guess) produces bactoplancton. The water goes cloudy and Polip extention extends in response. This is critical to the sytem working. The resulting 'mulm' reflects the make up of the bac strains, bac food and carbon source, and so its nutritional value will reflect that. How one tests, other than through anecdotal experience - I have no idea
However both PE of sps and growth other filter feeders is a sight to behold. The zooplanction in my refugium have multiplied extensively, and the sponges have grown considerably too.
Amino Acids: Fed after lights out, these are important to prevent bleaching. It takes a while to get the dose right to prevent bleaching or excessive darkening - but it does work.
Phols CV: Another food source - contents unknown. I stopped using this a couple of weeks ago just to see if it make a difference and the colors became less vibrant - still the same colors but more matt/dull.
Element management/additions:
Major elements are kept within the usual params for sps tanks, with two significant exceptions:
DKH is recomended within 6-8 with users claiming higher can cause STN in this method. Obviously there are great tank with higher dkh, but that is the zeo recomendation for thier system.
A focus on Potassium has been a major recent development with the advent of a suplement and test kit. Most mainstream salts, with the exception of Seachem Reef are below NSW levels, and I have notice real gains in growth and vibrancy since paying attention to it. An interesting Q here is why do some tanks look superb without supplementing for K? I dont know - maybe something to do with the zeolites, or the enhanced growth rates that can be achieved with this method? I remain impressed in my reef though.
Minor element additions:
ZeoSpur 2 and B Ballance: Real stars in the range - these expell zoos from sps revealing underlying color. So powerful, that you need to have mastered the above before even experimenting with caution. You dont need to develope sutble powers of observation with these, but disciplin is critical.
Macro elements: Replenishes elements and effects growth rates. Easily checked by with holding doses - the reef slows down.
Iron, Potassium Idodine, Floride, Iodine: Used to tweak colors. Again easily checked by adding or with drawing doses.
All this takes time money and energy to implement, and is not for those who want quick fixes, because:
1) OD on these can cause more problems than they solve so feeling onces way cautiously is needed;
2) SPS respond to slow steady shifts in environmental conditions - that is thier nature.
I'v come off the fense to being quite impressed with the system after 4 months, and happy for any experienced sps keeper with good color already who are interested in the method to come an visit to assess for themselves.
It wont turn genetically brown sps into oregan torts, and some specimones when introduced go down hill then re-emerge looking different but attractive, and its a joy to watch something with a hint of clor turn in a LFS trun out to be something quite special after a while.