Zeovit - System

Finally got through this entire thread. Very informative. I tried this system on my new upgrade (125 gal.) for the first 2 1/2 months, but had to quit using it. I followed the 14 day start up guide and then the regular user guide to a tee. I only used the "Basic 4" during this time period. About 2 weeks into this system, I noticed what I thought was diatoms, no problem, I thought it would resolve itself in a few weeks. It did. However, a golden brown substance reappeared within a few days after I thought I was through with the diatom period. I started to think this stuff was something other than diatoms. I sought help on the Zeovit forum, submitted photos when requested, but no one on this forum was able to help me. It was suggested that I cut back on the amount of Zeostart I was dosing, I did. Brown stuff still on sand bed. It was suggested that I should stop dosing all together for a few days. I did. The brown substance seemed to dissipate a little but as soon as I began dosing again, it (brown stuff) reappeared. It was suggested that I should try using Coral Snow and Biomate together, I did. I continued to dose the Snow and biomate for approximately 3 weeks. The brown substance was still on my sand bed and would seem to come back with a vengeance after cleaning the sand bed during water change. To be honest, I received very little help from the Zeovit forum, specifically, the "more experienced" members. Most suggestions came from posters with maybe a month more experience than I had with this system. Since I could not determine what this substance actually was, I decided to stop dosing any Zeovit products and began running GFO. Almost immediately, the brown substance subsided and my sand bed was clear again. I really wanted to be successful using this system. I believed in it, researched it while I was waiting to start up my new tank. I would really like to try again. However, I'm afraid to because my tank is doing well right now and don't want to disrupt what is working.

As I read through this post, I heard the argument as to whether it is necessary, other tanks doing just as well without using the full Zeovit system etc.. Unless I missed it, I did not hear an argument as to what, if any, are the advantages to using the Zeovit sytem. As I previously stated, I would like to try my hand at this system again at some point, but feel that there is simply not enough help/advise out there. I'm not really sure if this is my rant or just my 2 cents. Sorry for the long winded post.

Hey, sorry to hear about the ISsues. and I understand your frustration, but systems like Zeovit, or in general bacterioplankton systems, are alot more hands on and require alot of fine tuning and observing and .... which is different for each system. There is just so much experience and observations to share, the rest lies in the hand of the user ... with GFO, you add it to a reactor, make sure its moving, and forget about it, if corals pale out, you use less. that is not the case with Zoevit, when you have more than 10 variables at all times, flow of reactor, amount of stones, start3, bak, biomate, GAC, CS, ZZ, and so on. and as result trouble shooting from outside is much much harder.

for example, Cyano bacteria ... its a bacteria. in Zeovit, we add additives, to grow bacteria, but get disappointed when the photosynthesis bacteria Cyano grows ! well to me thats not a fail, that just means bacteria are taking up nutrients, now you have to shift the balance away from cyano, and towards Zeobak bacteria ... make the environment more appealing to Zeobak ...

now let me ask you something, you say you really want to make Zeovit work for you, why is that ? your answer to this question, will also be your answer as to why Zeovit can accomplish more :)

with Zeovit, reaching the balance is not that easy, and maintaining it even harder to accomplish. again, cause of the variables, but this exact "problem" is why the system can accomplish more !

perhaps after 2.5 months the system and the sand fully cycled ? maybe you were dealing with dino which Start3 could feed ? [remember, the bad dino, is the same algae that keeps our corals alive], maybe too much feeding ? could be alot of different reasons.

but at the end, if your current method is working, keep it the same, one of the most important steps in keeping a nice reef tank, is to feel good about it, then you will be motivated to do more :) when you feel like you have topped the growth and coloration with current GFO method, then look into Zeovit again ... it can possible take your reef to the next level.
 
i was dosing 2ml of zeostart daily on my 260 net system. when i back off to 1 ml daily the brown slime seems to lessen. im at a loss of what to do..

also every time i turn the flow up to help with extra nutrient removal i end up bleaching corals.

Hello,
to reach the balance, you want to dose the LEAST amount of Zeostart3, to keep po4 from rising.

the flow, has only a small margin to play with. you can not run it higher, it will bleach, and RTN corals from base up. same goes with amount of Zeolith stones, dont go over the max recommended. it would increase the rate at which nutrients are processed, while you want to increase the capability over long run .

if you like, share with us your dosing and maybe we can help.
 
here is my dosing now.

260 net gallons . medium stock
2.6 liters zeolites. flow at 130-150gph now. higher seems to cause problems with tips and base bleaching.
1 ml zeostart daily. was 2ml -10 days a go
6 drops zeobak 2 times a week. lowered from 10 drops -10 days ago.
20drops of cyanoclean daily started last friday.

sponge power stopped . was 10 drops every other day. last doses 2 weeks.
bio mate stopped . was 2 times weekly 10 drops.
1 tsp zz stopped. 1 dosing weekly.
10ml coral snow stopped.
 
and how are the corals looking now ? when you say "bleach" what exactly do you mean ? coral loosing its color ? or coral loosing its Tissue ? if color, then thats the point ! ill explain. ... you want to clean the water, and make corals consume bacteria to get their N and P and ... fix. corals will lighten up, and at that point you need to start feeding them. if system is young, start with CV, if over 6-7 months, then Xtra might be good too. at 130 GPH, you are at the min flow. it can go up to like 200 GPH safely. [make sure to measure how long it takes to fill a 1 L jug, then calculate the GPH that way. dont forget L to G conversion.]

algae Issues ? or just brown slime/bacteria growth on sand ? if algae Issues ... then its nutrients, if just slime on sand, then its bacteria overgrowth in sand bed, either siphon sand with water changes, or place the end of the hose in sump, in a filter sock, and just siphon sand that way, u wont be removing water. sand sifting stars, or some snails can help move the sand around.

also make sure you have NSW values, KH at 7, CA at 420, and mg not that high. [burned tips are caused by lowered nutrients and higher alk]

Sponge power, IMHO is one of the main parts of Zeovit system.search on AA articles about importance of sponges in a reef. I get best results, dosing SP once weekly, 3x the value recommended.
 
definitely hair algae issues. i usually measure 1/2 gallons for flow. set at 12 seconds for 1/2 g. 150gph

when i say bleaching i mean rtn/stn/tn for the most part. usually starts with polyp retraction. seems to happen every time flow increases more then 150-180 gph.

im at 7.5 dkh , cal 400, mag 1300, k -400 , no3-2 / phos 10ppb.

3 cups carbon passive.
 
yea thats not something anyone can help with remotely.

I can keep asking about different parts of system, till we get to the culprit, but reading these threads, you have the knowledge to go thorough and find the culprit yourself, then ask on here how to solve it.

where is the algea growing ? and you can guess the other questions I am going to ask lol what rocks, what sand, what water, how long the tank been up, what fish, what feeding skimmer, ....
 
i know its difficult to pinpoint. my water is always 0 tds ro/di water. red sea blue bucket salt.

algae is on rocks an back glass. tank is 10 months old. i have 25 fish. and feed 2 times daily. combo of nori, pellet,and rinsed frozen.
 
If I have hair algae on the rocks what does it mean? Rocks leaching no3 ? Other than handling plucking is there any other way to get rid of it ?
 
hi honkit, for now you need to just use the basic 4, zeolith stones, zeo bak, start 3, and carbon. stop all other dosing.

I will swap out the dosing of zeofood 7 with sponge power. Besides that, I see no need to change my dosing regime for now as I am seeing good colouration and excellent growth rates.
 
I will swap out the dosing of zeofood 7 with sponge power. Besides that, I see no need to change my dosing regime for now as I am seeing good colouration and excellent growth rates.

Corals may lighten a little as you decrease Zeofood. If you have not already, try adding CV and Xtra. Run CV for two weeks and then start Xtra. Coral colors will go to another level, metallic and three dimensional.
 
Corals may lighten a little as you decrease Zeofood. If you have not already, try adding CV and Xtra. Run CV for two weeks and then start Xtra. Coral colors will go to another level, metallic and three dimensional.
Sounds good.

Let me give sponge power a go for the next few weeks until my next zeolite stone change.

I will then add CV and Xtra (or Xtra Special).
 
I had the same problems with zeovit and brown powder on the sand. I tried all of the suggested techniques and never got rid of the stuff after 6 months. I stopped zeovit and went back to biopellets and it is gone.
 
I had the same problems with zeovit and brown powder on the sand. I tried all of the suggested techniques and never got rid of the stuff after 6 months. I stopped zeovit and went back to biopellets and it is gone.

glad u could solve the Issue. thats the whole point, isnt it ?
 
Some hobbyist think Zeo is a magic methodology that will solve their reef keeping woes. Zeo requires or shall I say demands to used by hobbyist that understands the fundamentals of reef keeping, to include problem solving. Zeo is unique as it provides the framework for hobbyist to manipulate coral colors and to some degree growth rates. Understanding how variables, such as reactor flow, Start3, Bak, and nutrient levels are related is the first step, which is enough for most. Introduce other elements for example, CV, Xtra, Spur2, and corals will change in a matter of days, some call it the Zeo look.

I am often asked questions from new Zeo users and the first question I ask them is "Why do you want to use Zeo?" The answer to that question will determine if Zeo is the right methodology for managing nutrients. Depending on a number of factors, carbon dosing and GFO maybe the best approach. If your looking for a challenge and love to experiment, Zeo is the correct choice. Also, if you can look at your corals/tank and determine something is off, Zeo is for you. Is Zeo the perfect methodology, no. Will Zeo cure ich, no. Don't laugh, someone asked me that at one point. Can you have a successful system with the bare bone basic 4, yes, but why stop there, have fun with it.
 
Nicely said !

I often tell new users to just go on the Zeovit forum, and read G. Alexanders comments and recommendation to others, after reading 200-300 of them, you should know the basics of the Zeovit. the rest is just experimenting, observing, processing, and then experimenting again.

lol the ich cure thing may have came from me ... I made a post once somewhere, saying I feed my fish ALOT, Zeovit takes care of the nutrients caused by it, this keeps my fish fat and healthy, and less prone to parasite like ICH. next reply was, so Zeovit cured ich ? :facepalm:
 
I'm a soon to be new Zeohead when I start my 14 day cycle when I get back from vacation. I have an advanced degree in electrical engineering so I think the comment about experimenting is exactly what drew me in. I think the more hands on implementation of Zeo also seems attractive to me.
 
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I love zeo tanks and the color. When I started the tank I wanted to go zeo. But as the tank matured I noticed that I already have good parameters. 0 nitrates, phosphates etc. So I did not go zeo. But I do have excellent maintenance schedule. I followed most of your advice. Import and export. Every four days I do 5% water change. I run bare bottom so everything is syphoned out. Even my refugium has no sand. Even that is syphoned out. So I am removing as much nutrients if not all every four days. Its such a simple concept.

But now I have small frags so I can get my hand in there. Eventually it will be full with large colonies and very hard for me to reach places. Then I think I will need zeovit or some other bacteria to break the nutrients. I see people with new tanks going zeo and wonder if its really needed. I already have ULNS.

But man some of your tanks will large corals I don't know how u guys clean around it. Then I am going zeo or biopellets. Till then I am happy syphoning out the detrius.

When I started the tank ayear ago I was so scared in maintaining good water quality. But with help from all you guys I learned the basic concept of removing nutrients before they became a problem. I don't think new tanks need zeo. But established tanks need a better way to transport nutrients in which zeo can help.

I still have a couple of years till I get there. Then I will join the zeo club. I do love the colors though.

Why I wrote it all down in along post. If a newbie reads it he can understand when to implement zeovit and take full advantage of it.
 
Also for some reason I thought zeovit system would be expensive. But BRS had a good price of 199 for the starter pack. It took a lot of control not to buy it. Lol
 

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