Zeovit

let me explain a bit of the system. ZeoFood is designed to feed the corals, not the bacteri (it does to a degree), it is the ZeoStart2 that is the carbon source and feeds the bacteria. It is very concentrated and I dose only 2ml per day for 1000l/250gal, split into two dosages. If you are not using zeoliths, then I would half this dosage.

Download the guide at Zeovit/Korallen-Zucht to get a better overview of what does what.
 
I've been using Warner Marine's Amino's before and saw more coloration in my blue tort. That's why I switched to the ZEO amino's. As the the carbon source many non-ZEO tanks have plenty of DOC that I think the bacteria will feed from.
 
Ricky,

I am not sure what you're trying to say? Amino Acids are a nitrogen source that bacteria will utilize, but not to the degree of Carbon.
 
So here is a quick question any know a good way to lower my KH? It use to be around 6-7 and now I am at 10. I do regular water changes and all any other advice waould be helpful.
 
Switch to Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt. I had the same problem with high alk and now it hovers around 8 dkh.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12463376#post12463376 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jeff
Switch to Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt. I had the same problem with high alk and now it hovers around 8 dkh.

I use to use tropoc marin but have switched to the seachem reef for the high K levels in their salt. thanks though
 
Seachem salts will read a good 1 dKH higher than actual alkalinity, due to their high boron content, which most test kits read as KH. If you are reading 10 dKH, then the actual alkalinity is probably around 8.5 dKH.

I have found that my calcium reactor will often raise my Alk, if it clogs a bit.
 
Wow see ive been using seachem salts for awhile now and i new the kh was off some but i didnt know it was 1dkh, wow thats great to know.
 
Ricky, I would agree with CanaryGirl...typically, DOC is an acronym for Dissolved Organic Compounds....Which is what we are trying to remove by dosing a carbon source along with heavy protein skimming. Personally, I have NEVER seen an article where DOC meant Dissolved Organic Carbon!

I'm no chemist, but isn't all carbon organic?
 
No there is inorganic.

Dissolved organic carbon (DOC) is a broad classification for organic molecules of varied origin and composition within aquatic systems. The "dissolved" fraction of organic carbon is an operational classification. Many researchers place the dissolved/colloidal cutoff at 0.45 micrometers, but 0.22 micrometers is also typical.

The DOC in marine and freshwater systems are one of the greatest cycled reservoir of organic matter on Earth. The majority of the DOC is caused by different sources, depending on the focused body of water. In general, organic carbon compounds are a result of decomposition processes from higher organic matter such as plants. When water gets in touch with high organic soils, a certain amount of these components can be drained into rivers and lakes as DOC.

DOC causes an increased growth of microorganisms, as it is a food supplement. Moreover it is an indicator of organic loadings to streams, as well as terrestrial processing (e.g., within the soil, forests, and wetlands) of organic matter. In the absence of extensive wetlands, bogs, or swamps, baseflow concentrations of DOC in undisturbed watersheds generally range from approximately 1 to 20 mg carbon/L. There is a high degree of variability in carbon concentrations across ecosystems. For example, the Everglades may be near the top of the range and the middle of oceans may be near the bottom. Occasionally, high levels of organic carbon indicate anthropogenic influences, but most DOC is natural in origin.

The biodegradable DOC fraction (BDOC) consists of organic molecules that heterotrophic bacteria can utilize as a source of energy and carbon. Within the context of drinking water quality, some subset of DOC constitutes the precursors of disinfection byproducts, and the BDOC constitutes the nutritional resources that can contribute to biological regrowth within water distribution systems.

I ganked that from wikipedia.


So does this imply that when DOC breaks down from food, etc, the bacteria quickly consume the organic carbon portion of the DOC?
By us adding more carbon it gets to break down the rest of the DOC?
 
Agreed, why would we add something to our tank if we are trying to get rid of it? I don't see why we would add a nitrogen source (Amino Acids) to our tank if we are trying to get rid of it. Why does't KZ make amino's that do not contain nitrogen?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12467623#post12467623 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rickyrooz1
Agreed, why would we add something to our tank if we are trying to get rid of it? I don't see why we would add a nitrogen source (Amino Acids) to our tank if we are trying to get rid of it. Why does't KZ make amino's that do not contain nitrogen?

Amino's are nitrogen. No way of getting around it ;) The difference is between organic and inorganic sources. Certain trace elements, vitamins, and amino's are necessary for optimal bacteria growth.
 
When I think of Amino Acids I think of Isoleucine, Alanine, Leucine, Asparagine, Lysine, Aspartate, Methionine, Cysteine Phenylalanine, Glutamate, Threonine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Glycine, Valine, Proline, Arginine Serine, Histidine, and Tyrosine. . . not nitrogen.
 
so i was looking at my media reactor today after i was stirring the rocks and i was thinking to myself if it would make a big difference in what section of the sump i put it in. if i put it in the section with the skimmer, the skimmer can pull out more of the bacteria when i stir it. on the other hand, if i put it in the section with the return pump, more bacteria goes to the corals before it has time to come back to the sump and get picked up by the skimmer.

where do you guys put your zoalith reactor? how many times do you stir it? i stir it in the evening after lights out when coral polyps are out more and feed. do you dose the carbon source and/or the bacteria directly in the reactor? or anywhere in the tank.

thank you!
 
Well, after dosing 1/2 teaspoon of potassium daily since last thursday, i have noticed much increased polyp extension on my monti cap. The color hasn't returned, but it definitely looks much healthier... So far I have dosed 3 teaspoons of potassium. How much more do you think I should dose before I take a little break?? Is a good rule of thumb to use the color of the frag?? I really should just invest in a test kit...
 
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