Hummm...
I've spent some time reading all pages here.
It's a very informative thread!!
I have to admit that I've never tried the actinic only when introducing any zoanthids in my system. That will be something to consider trying next time, even though I never had problems with the polyps not opening for too long after dipped and introduced.
I just want to leave here some of my thoughts too, hoping to contribute and participate...
I use Lugol's solution or iodine tincture dips for every single new zoas before I put them in my display tank. For every 8 - 10 oz of fresh water, or tank water, I use 3 to 5 drops of Lugol's or iodine tincture and let it set for 3 -5 minutes at a time. The treatment described works great!!! Nearly 100% of even damaged zoas treated that way are recovering in a short period of time. All the zoas are cleaned with tweezers in order to remove decaying organisms like sponges and other creatures like small crabs and such.
I truly believe that some species of zoas are more vulnerable to bacterial infections than others. The vulnerability could be related to the needs of such species, affecting their metabolism little by little, once it's so hard to determinate the optimal parameters and conditions for each of the individual colonies we have in our systems. And we just can't supply all their needs, specially because we really don't know what those specific needs would be, most of the time. So the solution is to find a common denominator for the artificial environment we want to create. That is the combination of the best light, water motion, chemistry, temperature and food particles. A stable and good maintenance schedule is very important. Partial water changes and optimal filtration. Strong skimmer and occasional detritus removal.
The best environment offered to many species of zoas in closed systems are still, generally speaking, clean water, moderated to relatively strong water flow, stable parameters and strong light. Those are the basic requirements IMO.
A system with poor water quality, low water flow, sudden daily changes in water params and inadequate light will contribute to bacterial infection problems of many types. Even fishes will suffer, as many of us know already!!
I don't blow the zoas, but I do siphon them out carefully once in a while to remove access detritus. That is to prevent any of the weird stuff read in this long thread!!! I'm having success since I've done that, but I do that every 3 months or so.
I did have those inexplainable zoa infections in the past!!
Another measure I've taken, and I believe that is the best decision I ever did for my zoas, regardless bacterial infections, is to target feed them small amounts of dry coral food. Some of the colonies I've lost in the past could be saved if I knew that before!!! I actually was able to bring many colonies out of "melting", target feeding them. That includes small tiny species of zoanthus!! They were melting without films of any sort on them. That type of melting, I believe, is a lack of nutrients or starvation. I believe that after a while the zoas just can't rely on zooxanthellae alone, specially if there is lack of the so needed nutrients to be absorbed or from particles. Quality food particles are very welcome and should be part of zoas' maintenance in aquaria IMO. Target feeding stimulates polyp contraction and improves color and reproductive rates.
To feed my polyps I turn off water pumps and feed only small amounts of particle foods, waiting them to close with the food. They open a while later, digesting their food. I use Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy and other dry coral foods.
I also believe in the administration of amino acids and vitamins in small scale. I've been using such additives but really can't proof anything because haven't done any tests myself.
The zoanthid's immunization system is boosted with the use of food particles, amino acids and vitamins and therefore they are strong to fight agains any bacterial attempt. Also, if they don't get weak because of the lack of feeding, bacteria doesn't take advantage and I would attribute my success to it.
Melting is not aways bacterial infection, but starvation due to their need of food particles and absorption of nutrients from the water.
Very good thread!!
I'm sure many could add much more to it !!!
I'm looking forward to read more...
Thanks to Spirofucci for bringing this to my attention after so long!!
Nice avatar, by the way!!!!
Grandis.
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