zoanthids and leds
- Thread starter mfinn
- Start date
mfinn
Active member
With my Radions, there is a way to set intensity in the software.
With the Reef Breeders value fixture I had, you set the intensity with a dial ( knob).
Not exact, but close enough.
kegogut
Active member
Thats what I run my LEDs at and I have see pretty good growth definitely atleast the same amount as under my T5s
mfinn
Active member
Yeah I think the dial is basicly regulates how much power is run to the leds.
You just kind of guess how far up it's turned.
Like half way would be 50%, 3/4 of the way would be 75%, etc.
SushiGirl
Premium Member
I just saw someone else's percentage post & smacked my forehead LOL. We were running 100% on both blues & whites on our 20L & the zoas that actually made it for any length of time after buying were struggling. We knocked the whites down about 25% & they've recovered very nicely color wise & are spreading after just a couple months.
My brain hasn't functioned right for months, too many pain meds & surgeries. Boy, do I feel silly! :lol:
My brain hasn't functioned right for months, too many pain meds & surgeries. Boy, do I feel silly! :lol:
I just got and installed Radion Pro's yesterday.
I have my zoa's on a frag rack at about 12".
I am currently using 50% max at high point of the day. (my day goes from 11a-11p)
I am using a custom level.
Would 14k be better? Then just adjust the intensity?
Humm...
My rasta's have bleeched out (browned out) some after I got them.
What do you want to know?
I am getting some sps and lps this sunday.
This might help some people
I have my zoa's on a frag rack at about 12".
I am currently using 50% max at high point of the day. (my day goes from 11a-11p)
I am using a custom level.
Would 14k be better? Then just adjust the intensity?
Humm...
My rasta's have bleeched out (browned out) some after I got them.
What do you want to know?
I am getting some sps and lps this sunday.
This might help some people
ThreeMoneyJ
New member
I'm running 4 AI Vega over a 4 foot long tank. Sandbed is approximately 20 inches below the water line. Lights are approximately 10 inches above the water line.
I have a bunch of different zoa's and paly's from the sand bed up to approximately 4 inches below the water line.
Lights are running 35% white 65% blues 10% green and red. 4 hour ramp up and down with 3 hours of full power.
All of the zoa's and paly's are growing very well. As I add new I start them out under a ledge for some shade and slowly move them into brighter areas over the course of a month until I get them where I want them.
I have a bunch of different zoa's and paly's from the sand bed up to approximately 4 inches below the water line.
Lights are running 35% white 65% blues 10% green and red. 4 hour ramp up and down with 3 hours of full power.
All of the zoa's and paly's are growing very well. As I add new I start them out under a ledge for some shade and slowly move them into brighter areas over the course of a month until I get them where I want them.
kegogut
Active member
I dont think its a "fad". Its just the newest technology. Im sure there was someone saying that T5s were a fad when they just came out. Also LEDs arent just for growing zoas. Theyre being used for growing everything with great results.
While some people are going back to MH or T5 from LEDs,theres many variables in reefing that can cause better growth or lack of,so while some have better growth under LEDs some wont see the same results in their systems with the same exact LEDs.
mfinn
Active member
This wasn't about it being a fad anything.
The thread is about what people are seeing with leds and their zoanthids.
If you don't like them, then go somewhere else and bash them.
BTW, they have been out for a couple years now
channingd
New member
I've always found zoa's to be the most adaptable coral to any light they are given. They just get prettier under the right condition. I moved my from T5 to Led and of course the LED blues just make them pop. IMO LEDs are the best way to display your zoo's, maybe not the best growth but for sure display.
I had D120s for months cranked up to 100% blue and 75% white. I borrowed a friend's PAR meter and found out that some were getting 800+ at the top of the tank and the sand was getting 300+. I have since dialed them down so that the top of the tank is getting 600 and the sand/frag rack is getting no more than 200. Since then I have seen them opening up. Some of the ones that were thriving in uber light (700+) were my Orange Bam Bams and Tubbs blues. The Candy Apple Reds were in high light and they have noticibably gotten smaller and have not popped out any new polyps. All the frags on the rack have started looking better after I lowered the light (rastas, sunny ds, super saiyans, hornets, etc). I would definitely counsel buying or borrowing a PAR meter because you can't just "eyeball" it.
I think as someone else mentioned it's more a matter of what they have been used to before you acquired them. There isn't some magic number for each variant of zoanthid. I will say that the hardier (cheaper) variants seem to be able to adapt a lot easier than the pricy ones. Funny thing about that.
mfinn
Active member
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