dreamreefer
New member
have not heard of a dark blue thin film or seen it myself...does the film cover over a few polyps or individual polyps? I've seen zoos turn black or dark blue but that is on individuals, and it is not a "skin"...
Zoos closing and dissolving???
- Thread starter gman0526
- Start date
Avi
Premium Member
well, it can cover a good number of the polyps in a big colony...Blowing water over them will loosen and dislodge some of the blue "skin" and then rubbing with the end of the turkey baster will dislodge some more. This is what I did last week and the colony seems now to have fully recovered. In the past, I have experienced losses though.
As far as the color is concerned, it really does appear to be a dark "Navy" blue color. It covers the neck of the polyps and the face of them, as well.
As far as the color is concerned, it really does appear to be a dark "Navy" blue color. It covers the neck of the polyps and the face of them, as well.
dreamreefer
New member
that's interesting, again, never heard of before.i"ve seen black ones dislodge though, maybe they're the same...
cmb88
New member
was reading and
was reading and
good discussion.. awhile back a guy asked about heartworm pills for dogs...I am a vet tech the name of the pill is heargaurd...but i cant see how dissolving this pill will help!! be careful
as for the rest i have had a similar problem..gooing gooing gone everything else healthy in tank good advice thanx.. i was thinking of just sacraficing that zoo for tanks sake thanks
was reading and
good discussion.. awhile back a guy asked about heartworm pills for dogs...I am a vet tech the name of the pill is heargaurd...but i cant see how dissolving this pill will help!! be careful
as for the rest i have had a similar problem..gooing gooing gone everything else healthy in tank good advice thanx.. i was thinking of just sacraficing that zoo for tanks sake thanks
b0wenj
Premium Member
Just wanted to give an update on my issue.....After taking the whole colony out of my main tank and putting in a new bucket of freshed mixed salt and a powerhead and leaving it there for about 3 weeks with somedays of all darkness and others light I finally moved my zoas back to my main tank and my problem seems to have gone away. The zoanthids that started to die did but the rest lived. I only waiting 3 weeks because I had other things going on and had no time to move them back sooner. I was only going to wait a week.
In my main tank I put back my carbon 3 weeks ago when this started and my zoanthids now seem to be thriving again since adding them back.
In my main tank I put back my carbon 3 weeks ago when this started and my zoanthids now seem to be thriving again since adding them back.
happyface888
New member
Intresting thread, I am having the same problem atm, but there is no white or blue film on mine. I notice that my zoas are turning small and the stems are shrivled up like s stick and the heads dont look so big anymore. I have no idea what to do atm. I am going to do a water change and run some carbon and hope that they will do better.
seapug
Premium Member
Glad I found this thread and that I'm not the only one who this is happening to. I've always found Zoas to be about as carefree and easy as a "coral" can be, but in the past month I have had three colonies do the "withering" thing. The polyps get umbrella shaped and small then the stems get skinny and eventually dissolve away. I see no nudis and have no cheesy film stuff. The affected ones sit right next to others that show no symptoms. All have been in my tank for no less than 4 months. Very strange. Wish I knew what the hell was going on....
I have the same problem with one of my small colonies, but its starting to recover.
About two weeks ago I started changing my dosing methods. Instead of putting in a whole bunch of alk buffer once a week i starting putting in a little bit every top-off (about 2 days).
About a week in to this dosing regime i got this brown slime/fungus on one of my small colonies of palys. I'd blow it off with a baster but it would keep coming back. About 1/3 of the colony died off before I smartened up.
Here's what I did.
I couldn't remove the colony, so I gave my DT a strong dose of iodine. the first dose got dumped into the tank, and the second dose got administered by a baster right onto the affected area of the palys. The fungus has since stopped, and the paly's are recovering slowly.
Now here's what I think triggered it. When i was testing my alk, I was taking shortcuts. Instead of adding one drop, capping and shaking the test tube, I initially added 5-6 drops, then went drop-by-drop. When I noticed the paly problem I tested everything, and when I did my alk test drop-by-drop (as per instructions) my alk was at 15dkh.
No water changes were done. Just the iodine treatment and I stopped adding alk buffer, but added calcium to bring the alk down.
HTH
About two weeks ago I started changing my dosing methods. Instead of putting in a whole bunch of alk buffer once a week i starting putting in a little bit every top-off (about 2 days).
About a week in to this dosing regime i got this brown slime/fungus on one of my small colonies of palys. I'd blow it off with a baster but it would keep coming back. About 1/3 of the colony died off before I smartened up.
Here's what I did.
I couldn't remove the colony, so I gave my DT a strong dose of iodine. the first dose got dumped into the tank, and the second dose got administered by a baster right onto the affected area of the palys. The fungus has since stopped, and the paly's are recovering slowly.
Now here's what I think triggered it. When i was testing my alk, I was taking shortcuts. Instead of adding one drop, capping and shaking the test tube, I initially added 5-6 drops, then went drop-by-drop. When I noticed the paly problem I tested everything, and when I did my alk test drop-by-drop (as per instructions) my alk was at 15dkh.
No water changes were done. Just the iodine treatment and I stopped adding alk buffer, but added calcium to bring the alk down.
HTH
Hypertek99
In Memoriam
Well guys a few of us have been doing an experiment and i think we may have a solution to the Zoa's melting problem. A few of us started dosing vitamin c tablets in our tanks with melting zoas and it seems to boost the immune system of the zoas. The polyps started to get big again and opening longer. Our problem was that the zoa would just all of a sudden get skinny and sometimes the top of the polyp would just squeeze up and then they start to melt with the skin peeling away then brown ooze comes out and then it's dead in like a few days. Well the vitamin c seems to have stopped it. You can e-mail me at Snoopy7671@aol.com if you have questions as my pm here don't work.
Hypertek99
In Memoriam
It's not verified yet as there's like 3 of us doing this if anyone else has melting zoas want to try maybe we are on to something.
mathias999us
New member
Any updates on the vitamin C approach?
Pufferpunk
New member
There is a huge thread on "Treating With Vitamin C", at this forum & you should try to read as much of it as possible. See the before & after pics I posted on the 1st page. This thread is all about the exact problems I had before dosing Vit C. All my zoas are growing on large rocks & there is no way to dip them. The VC is working, not just with my sick zoas but the growth rate & polyp size is amazing on my healthy ones! Nevermind, my LPS/SPS have doubled/tripled in size! The amount of C in Selcon & Kent is minimal to the amounts I am dosing. I'm up to 45mg/gal, 2x/day.
Skeptic_07
New member
I read that this sort of condition can be brought on by certain water parameters. high temperature, low salinity and i forgot the third parameter... its in aquarium corals by borneman in the disease section its called zoanthid condition 2 or something like that. He describes almost exactly what this guy is saying, zoos close and refuse to open and then begin to melt away. This happened to me once and i still have no idea why. Around august of this year I bought a frag of these really really cool pinks. They were open the day i put them in the tank. Each day after that i noticed less and less polyps were open until they were all closed about a week later. Then some gunky looking stuff started to cover the polyps and they slowly began to melt away. A month later the colony was reduced to just a few polyps. The thing is, i had zoos and palys living all around them FINE! The 'film' never spread to any other colonies and all of my other polyps seemed happy and thriving. Could it have been my water params? i guess it couldve been but then you'd have to say that some varieties are weaker than others when it comes to water quality and stress and some are more prone to this type of illness.
Great thread. Good info on zoas that seem to "melt" away.
Pufferpunk
New member
I made a typo, it's not 45mg I'm adding, it's 4500.
i no expert but i like to share my experience i had these fungus attack every time when i change activated charcoal or change my t5 tubes this was i did
i try iodine dip never helped
but i placed the whole colony in t5 lights in pure actinic with more flow tada they are opening after a week placed them in shaded area and slowly moved them up slowly it works i did it couple of times
i try iodine dip never helped
but i placed the whole colony in t5 lights in pure actinic with more flow tada they are opening after a week placed them in shaded area and slowly moved them up slowly it works i did it couple of times
