1,000 gallon build finally under way

I

iseemax

New member
Will have pics of the tank up soon and will keep them coming as we go along.

I am starting this thread to help me keep track on the tanks progress
As well as sharing my achievements and set backs along my way.


Tank info and construction specs:

1" thick acrylic
Dims: '8x'4x'4
Stand: currently '3
From ground up: '7
Center overflow allowing 360 walk around
 
Immediate concerns with the tank....

-Light penetration To the sand bed.
4 feet of water is a task (considering the LED path for energy efficiency)

-Center overflow. Seems to really restrict aquascaping ideas.

-Creating and generating decent flow in the tank without 50 power heads.
Would a wave box mounted and hidden to the center overflow be efficient?

-Water return to tank is at BOTTOM of the tank. Would only feel slightly secure with a series of check valves in the event of an outtage. Even checks can fail and leave me with a 1,000 gallon mistake.

-Searching for proper return pump (also prefer energy efficient and VERY quiet)

-
 
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SWEET! Who is building your tank? I love the idea of a 360 walk around! As far as the returns go, I have considered a tank similar in design and planned on running the returns through drilled LR to near the surface of the tank and actually bringing the LR to just above the water surface. Powerheads wont work in an "island" tank. Where would you mount them and run the power cords? CL is a must IMO. I am assuming a basement sump?
 
Tank is already built. Tank was delivered from a fish store in northern california that went out of business not long ago and has been sitting dry for about 4 months now... Arrived in flawless condition minus some very hair line scratches in the inside of the tank that might not even be visible once filled with water. Still considering just having them buffed out for extra measure.

Sump will be under stand with possibly x2 SWC cone skimmers (250-a1)
Considering bringing the stand down about 4"-5" so sticking with a skimmer that has a max of 2" in height is going to be the key here.

I wish I had the room to run the sump in a completely seperate area of the house but that is not an option at this time so planning on making the most of what I can do waste removal wise with what I have.

The tank came with 2 sumps. A skimmer I have yet to ID as well as a large return pump I also have not ID'd.
 
As far as hiding power cords.... In the overflow there is enough room for another 1" bulk head. I will be drilling that out and installing and sealing up a dry pipe that will run from the bottom of the tank to the surface above the water line so I can run an extension cord for all the lights and possible wave box.

I personally like the idea of the water returning directly into the bottom of the tank since providing a heavy flow will possibly become an issue, water returning directly tO the bottom of the tank will ensure that the entire tank is guaranteed enough o2. Just worried about failing check valves will keep me on edge
 
iseemax said:
As far as hiding power cords.... In the overflow there is enough room for another 1" bulk head. I will be drilling that out and installing and sealing up a dry pipe that will run from the bottom of the tank to the surface above the water line so I can run an extension cord for all the lights and possible wave box.

I personally like the idea of the water returning directly into the bottom of the tank since providing a heavy flow will possibly become an issue, water returning directly to the bottom of the tank will ensure that the entire tank is guaranteed enough o2. Just worried about failing check valves will keep me on edge
Click to expand...
Just a thought ... if your overflow box is big enough, I would bring the return up through the overflow and into the tank. I have a check valve on my return line to the tank and it never seals 100% from the start. I ended up installing an air brake, to stop the siphon on that line as an extra measure. Good luck on the build. Neil
 
::edit::

I will check and see if I have enough room. Good idea

Not sure I would have enough room for that to happen with my current overflow box but it's never to late to consider removing this box and going a little more custom to make the tank drain proof
 
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iseemax said:
Prefer to try and make the tank as energy efficient as possible so MH is not an option. Looking at led options
Click to expand...

An energy effecient 1000 gallon reef tank? Thats funny!

I speak from experience, running a 1000 gallon fish only, 1700 gallon reef and 2000 gallon Freshwater.
 
Would I be able to add a reverse check valve at the top that would prevent water from exiting that return when it's under water pressure BUT it would act as a air supply in order the break syphon?
 
iseemax said:
Would I be able to add a reverse check valve at the top that would prevent water from exiting that return when it's under water pressure BUT it would act as a air supply in order the break syphon?
Click to expand...

Sounds risky to me.

If its mechanical it will fail. Then what? Your return pump will be shooting water straight up in the air.
 
Jeremy Blaze said:
An energy effecient 1000 gallon reef tank? Thats funny!

I speak from experience, running a 1000 gallon fish only, 1700 gallon reef and 2000 gallon Freshwater.
Click to expand...

Maybe not as energy efficient as a nano BUT...
As energy efficient as possible...
Anything is possible with proper planning....

Please let me know if I'm leaving something out....

-x1 energy efficient return pump (brand?)
-x2 skimmers (70w per pump)
-x4 led fixtures (120w per unit. Prefer stronger)
-x2 large heater
 
Jeremy Blaze said:
Sounds risky to me.

If its mechanical it will fail. Then what? Your return pump will be shooting water straight up in the air.
Click to expand...

This would act and be place a little below the water line and inside the tank. If pressure is added to a check it's job would be to close. If you reverse the pressure if it's placed backwards in the line it should be able to draw air correct? Unless its sealed from salt creep or something or the other?
 
iseemax said:
Would I be able to add a reverse check valve at the top that would prevent water from exiting that return when it's under water pressure BUT it would act as a air supply in order the break syphon?
Click to expand...

Let me explain what i did ... The return from the sump, in adjoining room goes up and over back to the tank to two returns that are halfway down on the back of the tank. What i did was to put a tee in the return, at the highest point, and reduce it down to a John Guest fitting and ran that down to the tank just above the water line. When everything is running properly that little line is also running water in it from the pump. If the pump stops then is draws air back into to plumbing and breaks the siphon. Hope this explains it better. Neil
 
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Is this going to be a fish only tank?

Heating and cooling can be difficult. What about the house/ room that its in?

Evaporation can do a lot of damage.

Trying to keep the tank at 78 and the house at 68 will also cause a lot of evaporation and make your home HVAC system over work itself.
 
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