I plan on looking into getting an auto top off set up as well as maybe possibly a good Aqua controller
1,000 gallon build finally under way
- Thread starter iseemax
- Start date
I plan on looking into getting an auto top off set up as well as maybe possibly a good Aqua controller
Okay I think I understand exactly what you did I really think it will work in my case because I don't want to see any plumbing or any wires outside of the tank only a freestanding tank.
Maybe I got a little lost in the read but I looked at the foot valves in the link you gave me and I can't seem to find the purpose of what the football would do.
@subshop
Okay I think I understand exactly what you did I really DONT think it will work in my case because I don't want to see any plumbing or any wires outside of the tank only a freestanding tank.
Setting up the returns to run above the waterline within the overflow would seem to be the only option I would think.
Okay I think I understand exactly what you did I really DONT think it will work in my case because I don't want to see any plumbing or any wires outside of the tank only a freestanding tank.
Setting up the returns to run above the waterline within the overflow would seem to be the only option I would think.
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
An aquacontroller will make top off easiyer, but it still won't eliminate the humidity that will be in your house.
I have seen several homes and hvac systems destroyed by large aquariums.
Is this going to be a reef or fish only?
How big is the room it is going in?
What temperature fo you keep the house?
What temp do you want to keep the tank?
How are you going to control the humidity in the house?
What about power? Are you going to wire in dedicated circuits?
What about weight of the tank?
Is it going on slab? Or does your house have a basement or crawlspace?
These are very basic questions that must be addressed with a tank this size.
Maybe you already have the answers, if so please share.
I have set up several large aquariums d would be happy to share my experinces with you if you are willing to listen.
Btw, a foot valve is a one way check valve that goes on ghe intake side of the pump. When the pump shura off water pressure closes the valve preventing the water from running out and creating a siphon effect from your display.
Is this going to be a reef or fish only?
----FOWL mostly. Maybe some frog spawn here or there with some larger shrooms and toad stools & leathers. Other then that just fish.
How big is the room it is going in?
----22x18.... 8' floor to ceiling
What temperature fo you keep the house?
-----70-74deg
What temp do you want to keep the tank?
----78 deg
How are you going to control the humidity in the house?
----- haven't considered this yet, thank you for bringing this up.
What about power? Are you going to wire in dedicated circuits?
------ was not planning to based on trying to build the tank
To energy efficient specs. I had a 500 gal in the same location. I'm planning on using less electricity with this tank then my 500 gallon.
What about the weight of the tank?
------ the floor is on a full concrete slab
----FOWL mostly. Maybe some frog spawn here or there with some larger shrooms and toad stools & leathers. Other then that just fish.
How big is the room it is going in?
----22x18.... 8' floor to ceiling
What temperature fo you keep the house?
-----70-74deg
What temp do you want to keep the tank?
----78 deg
How are you going to control the humidity in the house?
----- haven't considered this yet, thank you for bringing this up.
What about power? Are you going to wire in dedicated circuits?
------ was not planning to based on trying to build the tank
To energy efficient specs. I had a 500 gal in the same location. I'm planning on using less electricity with this tank then my 500 gallon.
What about the weight of the tank?
------ the floor is on a full concrete slab
iseemax: congrats on landing a biggun. Was this the 1,000G tank from Capital City Aquarium in Sacramento? Hope you don't mind me tagging along and asking Jeremy a few questions that may help both of us out. If you feel I am derailing, let me know and I'll start a separate thread.
Jeremy Blaze:
Heating and ventilation was my biggest oversight when setting up my tank. I have a 770G (10'x3'x4'H) setup in a small (detached from my house) pool room. The room is only 18'x11'. There is no air heating for the room. I am running 1,800 watts of electric aquarium heaters to maintain 78F (costs me about $125/month in eletricity here in NorCal...just to run the heaters). If I keep the windows closed, the humidity gets out of control and condensation starts to build up on the skylights and windows. If I crack a window, the humidity seems to subside, but then I am letting cold air into the room and the heaters have to work double time.
What are the best options in regards to keeping humidity down? Options I am considering are:
1. Leave the window cracked and install a bathroom exhaust fan wired to a Ranco so that it comes on when humidity in the room gets above a certain level.
2. Build a canopy for the tank and run an in-line fan (also controlled by a Ranco) to exhaust air directly from the canopy.
3. Run a free standing dehumidifier unit for the whole room.
Thanks in advance.
Jeremy Blaze:
Heating and ventilation was my biggest oversight when setting up my tank. I have a 770G (10'x3'x4'H) setup in a small (detached from my house) pool room. The room is only 18'x11'. There is no air heating for the room. I am running 1,800 watts of electric aquarium heaters to maintain 78F (costs me about $125/month in eletricity here in NorCal...just to run the heaters). If I keep the windows closed, the humidity gets out of control and condensation starts to build up on the skylights and windows. If I crack a window, the humidity seems to subside, but then I am letting cold air into the room and the heaters have to work double time.
What are the best options in regards to keeping humidity down? Options I am considering are:
1. Leave the window cracked and install a bathroom exhaust fan wired to a Ranco so that it comes on when humidity in the room gets above a certain level.
2. Build a canopy for the tank and run an in-line fan (also controlled by a Ranco) to exhaust air directly from the canopy.
3. Run a free standing dehumidifier unit for the whole room.
Thanks in advance.
d3hree
New member
On a 48" deep tank I think I would be tempted to use whatever budget you have set aside for LEDs to add solar panels to your home and be energy efficient that way. As regards to pumps, Laguna are the most energy efficient/cheap pumps I have come across. 16000 lph for 160w. Red dragons are slightly better but will cost 4x more.
I am building a 52" deep tank. Addmitedly there will be a 6" DSB. I have 400w Lumenarcs but lately I have been thinking that I will probably have to increase those to 1kw ballasts.
I am building a 52" deep tank. Addmitedly there will be a 6" DSB. I have 400w Lumenarcs but lately I have been thinking that I will probably have to increase those to 1kw ballasts.
danfeig
.Registered Member
At the present time I am looking at 400 Watt MH's along with T5 V-HO's. I am concerned about using LED's with my depth. I don't like the "disco light" appearance that I have seen on the bottom of several tanks using LED's. My concern surrounding solar tubes is algae growth.
Tank
Tank
I too am getting close to setting up a 1,000g tank (120"x48"x40"). I plan on using the Coralvue all-in-one lighting that contain 2-400w MH, 2 T5 & LEDs in one nice fixure. Going to put 4 of the 48" fixtures over the tank.
Might want to take a look at them.
Someone raised the humidty question. I'm going to solve that by having the tank in the garage similar to Steve (oregonreef.com) and using a garage fan to constantly move the humid air out and pull in fresh air from the crawlspace.
These large tanks take a ton of planning, but are doable.
Tank
I too am getting close to setting up a 1,000g tank (120"x48"x40"). I plan on using the Coralvue all-in-one lighting that contain 2-400w MH, 2 T5 & LEDs in one nice fixure. Going to put 4 of the 48" fixtures over the tank.
Might want to take a look at them.
Someone raised the humidty question. I'm going to solve that by having the tank in the garage similar to Steve (oregonreef.com) and using a garage fan to constantly move the humid air out and pull in fresh air from the crawlspace.
These large tanks take a ton of planning, but are doable.
aldiaz33, iseemax... It seems that you both have or are going to have a humidity problem. But the only solution that will work for the both of you is a dehumidifier. You both have very different set ups it sounds like. ALdiaz33 a simple solution for you is a combo heating/air conditioner/dehumidifier. Look them up on the internet. You could easily get one for around $1000 for the unit. You will be able to control heat and air and be able to keep the humidity down. The units are not that bad as far as energy consumption. I want to say they were like 5-7 amps of usage. This idea would work for you iseemax if the room you will have the tank can be isolated. If not then the easiest idea would be a dehumidifier. It is tough when your tank is viewable from 360 degrees to figure this out. You cant really vent the air out of the house from the tank. Maybe if your house is a single story you could run a vent line into the attic and tie into a a vent line for the plumbing. Or run a vent line to the attic and out the side of the house. Either way never just vent the air into the attic. Eventually you will get mold into the attic. Hope something helps and an idea comes about. Either way dont overlook the humidity.
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
I would use light tubes on tanks this big. On my old 1200 gallon reef, which was 36" deep, I ran 400 and 1000 watt metal halides.
Humidity, and temps are the biggest issues.
I would not attempt to fit a tank this size in a typical home room.
A better bet is to build a room for the tank, seperate from the rest of the homes HVAC system. Cool or heat this room as needed ( most likely cool)
Vent the room at a minimum.
Again, I have seem homes and building destroyed by the evaporation, Salt creep, etc
The cost of running a tank this large is much greater than most would ever imagine.
Water changes, not just buying salt, but your water and sewer bill, RO unit maintinance, Heck, just stocking the tank will be very costly, as will feeding, calcium and buffer supplements, etc.....
Not too mention the thousands of pounds of sand needed, Live rock, etc..
Heck a mag scraper for the front glass can cost over $100. Or just buy a wetsuit and a scraper Like I did!
Humidity, and temps are the biggest issues.
I would not attempt to fit a tank this size in a typical home room.
A better bet is to build a room for the tank, seperate from the rest of the homes HVAC system. Cool or heat this room as needed ( most likely cool)
Vent the room at a minimum.
Again, I have seem homes and building destroyed by the evaporation, Salt creep, etc
The cost of running a tank this large is much greater than most would ever imagine.
Water changes, not just buying salt, but your water and sewer bill, RO unit maintinance, Heck, just stocking the tank will be very costly, as will feeding, calcium and buffer supplements, etc.....
Not too mention the thousands of pounds of sand needed, Live rock, etc..
Heck a mag scraper for the front glass can cost over $100. Or just buy a wetsuit and a scraper Like I did!
Jeremy Blaze
Former Reef Addict
Why not?
d3hree
New member
I didnt mean solar tubes, I agree re the algae, I meant solar panels that would provide electricity.
A lot of very good information being passed around. With the humidity seeming like it might be an issue I'm now actually thinking of keeping the tank at my condo as opposed to my main home. I spend more time at the condo due to being closer to my job. At least with the condo I can try and get this thing up near a wall with a window that I can leave cracked and perhaps install some small fans that come on once the humidity reaches a certain point?
Will post pix soon.
Getting ready to start pulling apart and rebuilding the stand (which needs a lot of work)
Will post pix soon.
Getting ready to start pulling apart and rebuilding the stand (which needs a lot of work)
