1,200 gallons of fun!

Underwaterparadise, Your comments about the DSB concerns me. I think they have a lot of merit. I’m not sure how to go about redesigning the sump area though. I have made provisions for the skimmer algae farm in this layout. This is a problem that I have with my current setup.

I’ll post a diagram of my proposed room layout as this should help with a better understanding of space limits.

Coralfragger101, I used a white silicone adhesive.

If you look close in the second set of pic’s the first has not been glued and #2 & #3 have. It’s a 1 ¼ th by 1 ½ slp. The silicone fills the square hole and has a bead around the fitting on the flat part of the cap. There were two types of caps at the store. The one I pick allowed this fitting to rest inside of the raised hole without modification the other cap I would have had to sand off the threads of the fitting. The other fittings on the cap are drilled and tapped with a ¼” npt, they have Teflon tape on them.

The 1 ½ inch pipe is not glued or attached to the cap it is press fitted during filling of the tubes.
I will show pic’s of this in the future, but I didn’t take any when I was experimenting.


I did some testing of the water treatment system last night.

I’ll have to use more thread tape on the top cap in the future as they leak a little bit.
I will never push 4gal/min as the diagram had shown.
I have a 40gal/hour flow meter in line with the ¼ poly flow tube I was getting 10gal/hour after the beds had settled.

TDS readings on the system after about 10 min. Tap water was about 300ppm, Exiting the (+) cat ion about 800ppm. Exiting the (-) an ion 0. Exiting the (+/-) mixed bed 0.

I haven’t tested any other parameter of the finished water, but have added it to my lime water reservoir for ATO.

Over all I’m satisfied with what I’m seeing. I will be buying new fittings so I can run a 3/8” poly line. Line will be fed from a ½” copper line tapped off the main water line.
 
Room Layout

Room Layout

Ok this is a diagram of the room layout.

Tank stand is about 36”. There will be a platform on the left with steps. This will be for the short ppl in the house to get a good view, as well as make it easier to get into the tank. The sump is in green and the skimmer section is off set for easier removal and cleaning of the cups. There is plans for a light divider between this section and the rest.

Should I put a wall with a door on this section? What do you all think?

Sump layout.. Is there any way of keeping the same foot print and have it function better?


<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=roomlayout.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/roomlayout.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
only if i had the room for a 8' foot tank lol. What i love about large tanks is that you can aquascape so naturaly, if that makes sence.
 
Yeah, I know the feeling. I wish I could get a huge tank to aquascape and have some nice unicorn and vlamingii tangs. I'm still following this though :)
 
Redesign the sump with the return section in the middle, this way you can split the drains into the DSB area and the skimmer area. Put a ball valve on each and control the flow into each section, real slow for the DSB and open for the fuge area. Both of these sections will flow into the return zone.

HTH
Rob
 
I would like to maintain the 18" section on the right hand side of the sump for the skimmers location and have 100% of over flow water dumping into this section first.

I would not be opposed to splitting the water after that. or a redesign of the rest of the sump.

Anyone got any ideas on this?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14453207#post14453207 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mr.Biggs
I would like to maintain the 18" section on the right hand side of the sump for the skimmers location and have 100% of over flow water dumping into this section first.

I would not be opposed to splitting the water after that. or a redesign of the rest of the sump.

Anyone got any ideas on this?

Exactly, most of the flow will go to the 18" skimmer chamber then "T" it off and run a line to the DSB section with very little flow, both of these will dump into the return section in the middle.

Basically you can keep your same design just move the return chamber to the middle of the sump.
 
Underwaterparadise, I appreciate your help.

I'm not sure that I'm picturing in my mind what you are trying to convey to me. Is there any chance of you posting a quick drawing?
 
Sump Redesign

Sump Redesign

This is a diagram of the sump redesign based on the input so far.

one can see it's relationship to the tank stand. It has a 100% of the main display water entering the skimmer section.

The 2 frag sections will be BB.

coralfragger101, I don't know if I'll use the detritus removal system, but if you look at the 3 green spots and the green line going to the return pump line it could be incorporated with some bulkheads and a ball valve.

moving into the chaeto section the water splits and will have a reduced flow going into a 7"+ DSB with an eggcrate stand and some rubble rock.

Power heads can be incorporated latter if needed to roll the chaeto balls.

openings in the front of the stand should allow for decent access to the cramped frag section, chaeto removal, pump replacement, return line screen cleaning, and access to easy water change fill valve.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=newsump.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/newsump.jpg" border="0" alt="new sump"></a>
 
Why are you so set on having 100% of the display water enter the skimmer chamber first? The water will still be traveling to fast IMHO.

A simple "T" in the drain line and a few ball valves and you can have a 90/10 split or 95/5 if you want.
 
The reading thus far as been great can't wait to see where the project is at 1yr from now!!

Was I the only one who noticed the beer fridge in the drawing?? Or just the only one to comment?? :D
 
I feel that making all the water pass through the skimming section is important for over all skimming efficiency and water quality.

you can't really see it on the diagram but the intent is to have about 12" for normal sump level. I'm thinking of putting a bulkhead (the green dot) about 10" up and plugging it with a cap that has a hole drilled in it that will flow about 300 - 500 gal/H into this section. The baffle will be about 14" tall and will only have water going over it in a failure of the the chaeto outlet. (If the ball plugs it.)

The T and valve may be easier then drilling a hole with a bulkhead, but I just feel that strongly about passing all the water by the skimmers first.

Do you Think the 300-500GPH is to fast for a 45gal DSB section?
Should it be reduced further?
 
coralfragger101

I really like the detrius removing concept. I wonder why there isn't much interest in it?

I also wonder what the right size holes and pvc size is for maximum detrius removal?

Can one of the engineer / nerds calculate this for us ?

Thanks
Happy Valley
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14466131#post14466131 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by happyvalley


I really like the detritus removing concept. I wonder why there isn't much interest in it?


Not sure if this was meant for me, but I don't do a lot of direct detritus removal.

I look at it as a building block of a complex food web.
Look at some under a microscope and you would be amazed at what is all living on it.

In turn things (pod and such) feed on the things living on it.

I use a power head in the main tank and blow it around and use it to feed the coral and other stuff in the tank.
The coral, snails,mini stars and other stuff really comes to life to feed.

It creates quite a snow storm so to speak and will take a few hours to settle and move it's way to the sump to further be broken down and exported through the skimmer and chaeto.

I feed nothing to the system as far as food goes except fish pellets once or twice a day some times skipping days.

I don't know if I'm setting my self up in the long run for "Old tank syndrome" as this set up has only been in my care for 2 years or so.


Next up....

MY proposed power distribution.
 
Power Distribution

Power Distribution

This is a diagram of my proposed power distribution.

30A 240V breaker coming off the main panel.

Outside disconnect switch with a plug to attach a portable generator (3500W) in case of long term power outage (>6hr).

The 240V is split into two separate 120V legs and is divided to every other row of breakers.

The power is setup to balance the load and try and keep the system going in case of a single leg loss.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=breakerlayout.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/breakerlayout.jpg" border="0"
alt="Photobucket"></a>



This shows the first 4 circuits.

#1 The first half of the pumps for the 3 skimmers.

#2 The Dart will be powered from a UPS on an alternating cycle of 5 min on 10 min off in case of power failure controlled by the plc. This should give plenty of time to get the generator going.

This system of power backup (generator and UPS) should cost about $700 - $800 to implement and provide a good insurance for a 3-5 day power outage.

one can also see future expansion if power heads are needed.

#3 The second set of pumps for the 3 skimmers.

#4 The VFD drive and closed loop motor with some of the controls and feedback.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
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