1,200 gallons of fun!

[andreidr9]

i wish i can do a monster tank

 

[Mr.Biggs]

#5 heaters set for 78,80,82
#6 The main display MH lighting
#7 heaters set for 78,80,82
#8 actinic supplementation, and sump lighting, also the light movers.
#12 Cooling fans, Outside air intake fan, and the house HVAC fan. This will allow me to run the house heating system incase of power outage.
#10 UPS powering the PLC, control power supply, and the dart on power failure.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


#11 powers all of salt mixing.
#9 Ca reactor, GFCI wall outlets,and future expansion

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[Mr.Biggs]

I made quite the mess today.

I had a catastrophic failure of one of my ion tubes.

The bottom came apart. I was using toilet flanges for the bottom and it looks like the area that one would cut out failed under the pressure.

I will have to empty them, cut the bottom off and put a solid cap on the bottom and look at some other way to get them to stand up.

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[Mr.Biggs]

Went to the big city this weekend and pick up some stuff for the build.

I will be redoing the Ion tubes as I had used a cell core non pressure rated pipe on the first ones. I didn't think that the tubes would have much for pressure on them as I was not restricting the outlet of them, but after the mess that was made I see that I was wrong.

I got my first start in the fish room.

It all starts with the water supply. This is a pic of the original water main in the house. It just so happens to be in the fish room.

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I added new main shut off, a 1/2" raw water tap for the fish room, and installed a water softener with bypass for the rest of the house. The white 1 1/2 PVC will be the drain for the sump under the sink in this corner. It goes to the main drain line on the other side of the wall with the water softener.

I still need to tap the Hot and cold soft water lines for the sink in this room.

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This is the other side of the wall with the drain line extension and the lines going to the water softener.

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[tromblydavid]

Long term detritus removal is needed where it accumulates by either vacuuming or water blasts into any dead or low flow areas. I think it is very difficult to eliminate all areas that accumulate it. The ocean has a place for sediment accumulation which I would assume includes detritus but we typically do not in our systems.

 

[Mr.Biggs]

Tromblydavid, Do you believe that detritus removal is necessary for long term system survivability?

If nutrient balance is maintained in the system long term, and detritus accumulates, doesn’t it become a sedimentary layer and then more of a question of ascetics then the survivability of the system?

Would this build up of a detritus sedimentary layer guaranty system failure?




I’ve been working on the water treatment system some more. I have glued up 3 new ion tubes and have painted them blue they are airing out for a few days and I hope to get them on line and tested out this weekend. I still need to come up with a way of getting them to stand up.

The silicone on the top cap, that holds the threaded reducer, has failed and pulled apart when I disassembled the ion tube. I think I might try a two part epoxy of some type to get this to hold.


This is a pic of the progress on the water treatment system. It has 2 dual inline TDS meters to keep tabs on the condition of the resin. The system has full water pressure on it and you can see no water coming out the end. This is the normal failure state of the system. The two solenoid valves have to be energized for water to flow. The ball valve to the left of the board, holding the TDS meters and prefilters, is off for normal operation and controls the water to the salt mixing. I have been able to peg the 40g/hr flow meter during testing without the ion tubes in place. The bottom solenoid and flow meter is adjustable for a flow of 0 â€"œ 22.8 gal/day and will be ran into a lime tube and used directly for ATO. You can see the top of the old ion tubes in the pic for reference on their proposed final location.


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This pic shows the future location of the ion tubes and sink. The black thing the sink is sitting on is the sump for the room. Now all I have to do is figure out a way to get it through 3-4” of concrete and 2’ of soil. :eek1:


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I’m hoping that I can get the sump, sink, and water treatment done before the end of march as I will be entering the time of the year that my demands at work will increase and I might not get much more done till may.

 

[hidnReefAquatic]

intersting aquascaping ,your lightbill is going to be nuts lol

 

[username in use]

why not make the sand ten inches or so. Its in the sump, so i would make it as deep as humanely possible, unless five inches is the height of the baffles. But you could probably get 9 inches and still have 6 or seven inches of water over it without risking overflowing the tank. How full are you planning on running the sump. I am really interested to hear how it all works out with all the lighting and whatnot. I like the plans though, i dont think enough people see the beefits of the dsb in a sump.

 

[happyvalley]

A number of the circuit diagrams show multiple GFCI's outlets. I was under the understanding that only one is required per circuit. Am I reading the diagrams correctly?

 

[Mr.Biggs]

hidnReefAquatic, I plan on having about 1200W of lighting on the main display and about 440W on the sump. Both of these will be on about 12hr/day my current rate is about $0.075/KWH this works out to about $1.50 a day for the power for the lighting cost.

This rate will be about double in the peek heat of the summer when you figure out the cooling cost with it. However the cost will directly offset the heating cost for 6 months out of the year.

Of course if the president gets his way with the Co2 cap and trade and other green energy programs every one can plan on their electric bill doubling or tripling within the next 4 years. This very well could shut this system down.



username in use, The current planed sump level is 12”. Based on comments mainly from Underwaterparadise the planed bed depth is now 7+”. Any thoughts on how fast the flow over the DSB section should be?



Happyvalley, Good question. You are reading the diagrams correctly.

A GFCI (ground fault current Interrupter) is designed to stop the flow of current (kill the power to the circuit) if the current going into the circuit doesn’t = the current coming out the circuit.

In order for the current to do this it finds an alternative way for the current path to ground (ground fault). Generally this would happen say when a heater or pump casing integrity has broken. The current draw may not be great enough to trip the over load protection but will energize the water in the tank. You stick your hand in the water and now provide and new path to ground. It’s that nice tingling feeling. A GFCI is designed to keep this level of current below the level of human death.

Now you are correct that only one is needed to protect everything in a circuit.

My heater circuits are an example of this. The problem one has with doing this is if one heater has a ground fault it will take all the others on the same GFCI. I will be using ebo jager heaters and in the 20+ years I have used them I have never seen a ground fault with one of them so I feel ok with putting half of my heating load on one GFCI.

Now the skimmer pumps each have their own GFCI, this will allow them to fault and only shut that individual pump down.

If you look I also have a .5A secondary breaker in line with it. That’s about 60W or double the pumps rated wattage. This will allow it to short out and only shut that pump off.

The lighting doesn’t have GFCI protection on it because it will not be going in the tank water, besides a ground fault on the secondary side of a ballast generally will not trip a GFCI. The ballasts will be housed in a NEMA 4x box (wash down protected) and should not need the GFCI.

I could probably run the entire system on one 20A GFCI breaker, but a single fault in the system would potentially cause a system crash.
I estimate that it will cost me about $500 for the equipment to breaker and protect the system the way I have drawn it.

This is less than some ppl pay to get a single line ran for their tanks. IMO it is cheap insurance to set the system up this way.
What does one think the cost would be to replace a tank of this size full of basket ball size coral in 5 years if one skimmer pump died?



Ok so that’s a long answer, but I know there are many others reading this thread who do not post and I hope to teach others the thought process and reasoning for the way I do things along the way.

These are just my opinions and I don’t mean to put off or offend anyone.

If you just like to look at pics and see a larger system being built, just ignore my rants and long winded explanations and enjoy the show.

 

[Mr.Biggs]

I spent last weekend rebuilding the ion tubes only to find out after testing that they will not work well for my application. :mad2:

Looks like I will have change my water treatment system. Make an up grade on my ro system and get some larger storage containers and locate them outside of this room.


Now about that hole in the floor.....

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish Tank Build/?action=view&current=dcp_7074.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish Tank Build/dcp_7074.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


After about 5 min I added a respirator and a pair of gloves to the mix.

A hour and a half later I finely made it to the ground under the concrete with this small hole. That's a cd case for reference.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish Tank Build/?action=view&current=dcp_7078.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish Tank Build/dcp_7078.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Add 1/2 hour and this is what I had.

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I'm guessing I still have about 5 hours of work before the sump is Permanently set into the ground.

 

[JustinReef]

It was probably asked/mentioned already but why the 6' wide?

Seems like this is going to be one of the hardest to view and maintain tanks I have ever heard of. Not to mention keep good circulation, lighting, ect.

I just can't wrap my head about these dimensions. Why not just go like 12' long? Then again, something this big is not something I would ever desire or want to keep myself, so perhaps its just me

 

[N-dog]

so when you say 5 hours you really mean 8 right?

 

[BigTuna321]

looking good,, i bet explosives would have made quick work of that hole :blown:

 

[cnaegler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14562053#post14562053 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mr.Biggs
hidnReefAquatic, I plan on having about 1200W of lighting on the main display and about 440W on the sump. Both of these will be on about 12hr/day my current rate is about $0.075/KWH this works out to about $1.50 a day for the power for the lighting cost.

This rate will be about double in the peek heat of the summer when you figure out the cooling cost with it. However the cost will directly offset the heating cost for 6 months out of the year.

Of course if the president gets his way with the Co2 cap and trade and other green energy programs every one can plan on their electric bill doubling or tripling within the next 4 years. This very well could shut this system down.


Just curious, but maybe you could add solar panels/ wind generators/ hydro generators to the mix. It'll help with the power bill for sure, not to mention the HUGE tax credits. I believe the federal government also gives loans for "green" projects with 1% interest. Just my .02.
By the way, i can't wait to see this puppy up and running.

 

[slumpysix]

An electric chipping hammer or electric jack hammer would have been easier in the hands... LOL! That's a tough one breakin by hand. Good luck on the build... I Look forward to it!

 

[Mr.Biggs]

Justinreef, Good question.

I decided years ago after seeing a 4’ wide tank in operation that the greater depth was something I would build. The current dimensions are about as big as I can fit into this room.

I often times find myself looking down the length of my 6’ x 18” tank and thinking “Yah I can barely make out the other side with all the coral in there, man I can’t wait till that’s the width of my new tank.”

I think I have the lighting and flow covered, but only time will tell.

I own a mask and snorkel and plan on using them with this tank. I will be viewing this tank in a way most ppl do not often times view there reef tank, from the top down. I’m looking at building a device that I can place on the top of the tank, lay down on it and slide around on it to do maintenance or my viewing pleasure.

N-dog, If we add our numbers together we would both probably be closer to the actual time to get materials and do clean up and what not before it’s completely done.

Other methods of getting the hole in the floor would have been faster, but that is all I have on hand to do the job. If I was to rent a jackhammer it would have taken me 5 hours just to get it and return it to the nearest rental.


Sorry for the pic’s best I could do with a cell phone the other camera died.


The majority of the cement out of the way.


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It’s at this time that I’m whooped and need to call in back up.


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That’s me supervising the job with the little one about to disappear in the hole.


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[Mr.Biggs]

And the new room sump finely in place.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish Tank Build/?action=view&current=cid__0315091759.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish Tank Build/cid__0315091759.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I have finished packing the sump and cementing and grouting it in place but don't have any pic yet.

Now to let it dry and get the sink stand built and some more plumbing work.

I have some raw video of my lighting prototype, but the computer that I have the firewire connection on died. I'm in the process of upgrading and fixing it.

I decided to buy a GE Merlin RO system and have it on order.

 

[94supra]

were do you get these size tanks biggest one i seen in stores around me is a 210.

 

[jdjeepster]

Whats the purpose of the hole in the floor again? I may have missed it.