1,200 gallons of fun!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14640714#post14640714 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 94supra
were do you get these size tanks biggest one i seen in stores around me is a 210.
Click to expand...

Custom, built at site location.
 
damn our cost for a kwh over here in aus is about 20c i wish i was in america hang on a minute great barrier reef america hmmmm nahh
 
jdjeepster, The hole was made to put a floor sump in the room.
The tank will be housed in the lowest level of my home. The sewer line to the house is about 4' - 6' feet higher then the floor.

It will serve two main purposes.
The first is to pump the waste water from the utility sink that I'm installing in the room.
The second is a backup emergency system should any major leaking occur in the room it will be pumped to the sewer system instead of flooding the basement.

This is what it looks like with the room sump finally in place.
You can see the corrosion resistant sump pump sitting in the bottom. The white 1-1/2" PVC line will be tied into the house sewer line.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=dcp_2282.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/dcp_2282.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


With the lid on. The return pump (Dart) of fish tank will also be tied into this line for the ease of performing water changes.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=dcp_2281.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/dcp_2281.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


HEY! Look what I found when I returned home from work today.:)

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=dcp_2264.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/dcp_2264.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
is there a float switch to turn the pump on and off automatically?

here is los angeles i also pay $0.20 per Kilowatt hour. some pay even more with other providers for tiers of sevice above the allotted baseline.

Carl
 
The RO unit is rated at 750 - 1000 gal/day.
Cost about $390 shipped to my door.

It's designed to be a tankless on demand system for home use. When ran for larger quantities of water use like I plan on putting it through it requires greater water pretreatment. That combined with my low water pressure and low water temperature and the need to have a large water storage reserve I'm estimating 2x - 3x that cost before the water treatment for my system is compleat.

This is about 2x the cost of what I had budgeted for the water treatment system. :mad2:


The ro filters for the Merlin as compared to a pair of standard reef tank filters.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=dcp_2271.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/dcp_2271.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


The system housing compared to a 12oz beer bottle. This is one way of placement of the housing.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=dcp_2273.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/dcp_2273.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


This is the other way that the system can sit. That's a standard 10" filter on the left and the larger Merlin's prefilter.
They advertise it to last 6 to 12 months of use.

:p :rollface: ha ha ha.


When you read the fine print I can't even get my system up and running without exhausting it. That's why the need for greater pretreatment of the water with my system.


<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=dcp_2278.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/dcp_2278.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Reefski's, Yes there is a float switch on the sump pump. If you look close it's between the white PVC and the round motor.
 
I love the sump in the floor. I have always wanted to be able to pull the power in the room and rinse down the walls, pumps, sumps, tubing, outside of tanks etc once per year to handle salt spray and creep. Then run a dehumidifier and fan for a half day or so . Actually skip the dehumidifier, you're in Wyoming! Do it in January when it's as dryer than the Sahara with the central heat on (I grew up in Northern MN...)
Great Build!
Kudos!
 
hammolw, I might actually get a dehumidifier for the winter months as the level of evaporation I'm expecting is 15 - 30 gal/day. It is a lot drier hear most of the time and I would like to get the house up to about 60% RH.

I moved out of MN a few years back in the month of August. I took out my humidity gauge and hung it on the wall, I thought it had been damaged in the move. It was reading 12% :) this is after seeing 60% - 90% on a regular basis.



I have been working on the sink, sump and water supply. I redid some plumbing in the house to get rid of a 1/2" piping bottleneck in the system.

I have ordered and received some prefilter parts.

I also got some check valves and a true union ball valve for the waste line.

I got these from bulk reef supply.

This is my second order with them and I have been very pleased with the packing and speed that they get to me. I will be ordering the rest of my check valves ball valves and gate valves from them.


Now for some Diagrams.

This is a top down view of the tank stand.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=Standtop.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/Standtop.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Front view of the tank.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=tankfront.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/tankfront.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Side View.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=tankside.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/tankside.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
This is a main display top down view of my thoughts on the piping for the flow. If you compare it to the pic at the start of the thread you will get a better idea of what I'm thinking.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=flowtop.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/flowtop.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>



This is a side view of the tank and the general thought of the flow pattern. Keep in mind that the closed loop will be on a VFD drive linked to a PLC (programmable logic controller) so that I can control speed and duration of this system. I also have included in the drawing a built in system safety future. I will have the ability to replace the bulkheads on the tank with out having to take it down and drain it in case of failure in say 5 or 10 years.

<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=flowside.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/flowside.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>





I have rebuilt my computer and got a new cable for my video camera.

I have put the raw video of my prototype light system on my computer.

Now all I need is some software and to figure out how to get 35min of video into 5 or 6 min of footage that won't put you to sleep. I plan on speeding it up so that you can better see the light movement and way it works. I also plan on trying to explain some stuff about it as well as finding a place to host it.

These are all things that I have never done before so there will be a bit of a learning curve. I hope to have this done within the next month.
 
I've been following this thread since i found it, but I have a few questions for you, if you don't mind. So... your tank will be a DIY woody, correct? It'll also be 6' width? I'm just curious, since i've also been looking into building a woody for my new house. I planned to build a 8'l x 4'wx 27"d wide tankand kinda want to compare notes with you. Do you have any worries about all your butt joints bursting at all? Obviously, it'll be a 4' sheet of plywood with a 2' rip added to make it 6', on both sides and the bottom sheet. I'm just curious because i don't know the strength of the epoxy used to coat the inside.
Also, do you have any pictures/websites/links to the light movers that you speak of. I'm excited about that idea because that way i could minimize my power costs and still have adequate light for my SPS.
I noticed you installed a sump in your basement. I'm supposing this is only for your tank related water? I'm planning on a similar design but i'll have a "powder " room downstairs as well.
Well, thanks for your time! Everything is looking pretty good so far. I like the depth of your planning.
 
Keep in mind that every time you divide the output of the pipes, you drop the pressure ALOT! So with that diagram, you'll have about 20 outlets that are just barely dripping any water at all.

This is the reason that cappilaries aren't pushing 120/80 blood pressure. The arteries are split so many times that the red blood cells are actually slowed down quite a bit. I believe it's around 20 mmHg pressure at that level.

I just don't want you disappointed thinking that all these outlets will be squirting water at a high rate because it just won't happen.

Aaron.
 
Cnaegler, I’m happy to help in any way that I can. Yes it will be a DIY woody. 6’ wide is also correct.

Keep in mind I have never built anything like this in my life. :)

This project may become an expensive successful way not to build a 1,200gal system, thus the reason for the hole in the floor. :)

First off there will be no butt joints in the tank build.

The side will be one sheet of plywood cut to a 6’ length. The tank height will be less than 48” tall so this will not be a problem.

I will be creating an outer frame of 2x6 and 2x8 that will contain the glass and plywood for added strength.

The only place that I will have to use two sheets of plywood will be the bottom of the tank. These will be 4’x6’ with a tong and groove joint epoxied together and then have a seconded epoxy pour on top of it. These two sheets will also be contained by the 2x frame.

This diagram shows the top down of the stand. The blue line shows the division line for the two 3’x8’ plywood sheets that will be screwed to wood stand. The orange and yellow rectangles are the 2 sheets described above.




<a href="http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/?action=view&current=Standtop2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s104/mrbiggs_photo/Fish%20Tank%20Build/Standtop2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


I’m going to hold off on the links to the light movers till after the video is posted and will include them then so it will be easier for others who reference it in the future to find it.

The sump I have will be only be used for the tank and wash tub. It could be used for a toilet drain but you would have to put a turd pump in it to chop up the solid waste.
I hope this helps out.




dogstar74, I’m not an engineer so I don’t know how to do the calculations on the flow but this is what I’m thinking and hoping for.

I have decided to go with a reeflo hammerhead pump. It will pump about 4,000 GPH @ 15’ of head.

I will be using flow accelerators, they clam up to 4x the pump rate so 16,000 GPH. There are 13 outlets that I will have on this pump = 1,230 GPH on each.

Now I know that what you say is true so I was hoping that I could get 200 â€"œ 300 GPH or about the same as a maxjet 1200 out of each outlet.

If this true I think I can make it work with the PLC by creating a pulsed wall of water timed to the frequency of the tank to form a wave or surge like action in the tank.




If this all works out as I’m planning I will be able run a 6’ x 8’ mix reef tank with only 1,200W of lighting on the display and < 600W for flow and skimming.

Look around you will see a lot of 180 gal tanks that use more power than that. This would make my system one of most energy efficient mixed reef system there is.

Now as stated before I have never done anything like this before so this may become one of the largest mushroom tanks there is. ;)
 
Mr.Biggs
Premium Member

Registered: Nov 2002
Location: WY
Occupation: Systems Control Tech.
Posts: 314



Cnaegler, I’m happy to help in any way that I can. Yes it will be a DIY woody. 6’ wide is also correct.

Keep in mind I have never built anything like this in my life.

This project may become an expensive successful way not to build a 1,200gal system, thus the reason for the hole in the floor.

First off there will be no butt joints in the tank build.

The side will be one sheet of plywood cut to a 6’ length. The tank height will be less than 48” tall so this will not be a problem.

I will be creating an outer frame of 2x6 and 2x8 that will contain the glass and plywood for added strength.

The only place that I will have to use two sheets of plywood will be the bottom of the tank. These will be 4’x6’ with a tong and groove joint epoxied together and then have a seconded epoxy pour on top of it. These two sheets will also be contained by the 2x frame.

This diagram shows the top down of the stand. The blue line shows the division line for the two 3’x8’ plywood sheets that will be screwed to wood stand. The orange and yellow rectangles are the 2 sheets described above.







I’m going to hold off on the links to the light movers till after the video is posted and will include them then so it will be easier for others who reference it in the future to find it.

The sump I have will be only be used for the tank and wash tub. It could be used for a toilet drain but you would have to put a turd pump in it to chop up the solid waste.
I hope this helps out.



Yes, Mr.Biggs, that does help out.
I don't know why i didn't figure out that the sides where going to be laid down...DUH! Makes total sense now that you show me on the diagram.
I must admit, i'm pretty envious right now. A tank of this size is a dream for me. I've subscribed to this thread so i'll be interested in seeing it's progress!
I appreciate the time you took to answer my questions.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14715663#post14715663 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cnaegler
I must admit, i'm pretty envious right now. A tank of this size is a dream for me. I've subscribed to this thread so i'll be interested in seeing it's progress!
I appreciate the time you took to answer my questions.
Click to expand...

I have seen other comments similar to this and I would have to say Dreams do come true.

I would hope my thread is inspirational to others rather than making them envious or jealous. This system has been a dream and inspiration of mine for years. It isn’t by luck or chance that I’m building it. It is happening only because of choices and actions that I have taken over years. You are now only seeing the results of that. The time I take to post here is a way that I feel that I can give back to others. When I first started reading on RC I was inspired by others large system and am thankful they took time to post hear.


I want any one reading this to know that it is possible for you to create or have something similar if you choose to.


If you’re a high school dropout working a dead end job earning $8/hr it won’t cut it. IMO you have made a bad choice, but you have the ability to change it.

I understand that there are ppl who work hard at McDonalds to support their families and this is the best job they have ever had. I would like to thank you for being a productive member of society. You have the ability to choose to do other things in your time away from that job that will change your situation.
 
Well, i said envious, but, not in a bad way. I guess you best described it by saying "inspirational". I had originally planned a "woody" myself but scrapped the idea because of the amount of light i thought i would need. I currently run (3) - 400 watters over my 180 bowfront so i thought " Holy crow, i'd need approx. 6-8 lights for a 48"wx 96"l tank". BUT, your lighting system has " inspired" me again to go with a larger tank. I would have never thought of light movers. Luckily, i live where power is still reasonable but, it still runs $150- $200/ month just for my three tanks. I couldn't imagine 6-8 400watters or even 250's.
Thanks for the kind and inspirational sentiments. That's why i love RC, everyone (pretty much) is willing to bend over backwards to help or share their wisdom.
 
Wow! I should've watched the video before i posted. That is too cool! Let me ask you, can you program the light rail to move from one end to the other over the period of a day to similate the sun moving across the sky or is it pre-programmed to move back and forth. Also, could you plug it into, let's say, an aquacontroller and have it move from one end to the other? I like the fact that the light rail only uses 5.5 watts. Thanks for your time.
 
lookin great. make sure to put a trap and maybe a backflow preventer on your line from the sump to sewer. the trap is a must and the backflow preventer is for piece of mind
 
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