1000 Gallon Build- Here we go- Lots of Pictures

I regularly run to 84F. Accelerates coral growth rate. I shut down the lights above that until the tank cools under 83F and repeat.

Reminds me of the thunderstorms in the tropics.. it gets dark for a bit while things cool down, then the sun shines again. No harm.
 
How could two 34W reactor pumps warm 1000 gallons of water?

1 btu is the amount of energy to warm 1 gallon of water 1F. To maintain 1000 gallons at 3 degrees more than equilibrium should require about 900 watts, unless I don't understand the way the equation works.
 
How could two 34W reactor pumps warm 1000 gallons of water?

1 btu is the amount of energy to warm 1 gallon of water 1F. To maintain 1000 gallons at 3 degrees more than equilibrium should require about 900 watts, unless I don't understand the way the equation works.

Which is exactly why I was shocked as well. Didnt think that would make a difference and all of a sudden when I cranked the power down, temp is back to 80.

Im at a loss myself.
 
Are you sure one of those pumps isn't drawing way more power than it's supposed to/has a problem? Do you have a Kill a watt ($20 power draw measuring device) you can put in front of them to measure?
 
Are you sure one of those pumps isn't drawing way more power than it's supposed to/has a problem? Do you have a Kill a watt ($20 power draw measuring device) you can put in front of them to measure?

Very possible. I dont have that device but will see if I can get around to checking. Regardless, temp is stable now and the only change was to lower the power on the pumps.
 
Just a thought, I know you have you have your sump in your garage. Do you warm up your cars in the garage for extended periods of time? I know I warm up my exotics at least 10 minutes before I take them out. Maybe the fumes from the cars are getting into the tank?

My cousin had a rabbit he kept in his garage decades ago and one day it died, presumably from his mom warming up the car in the garage even with the garage door open.

Good point.. and off topic... why would you warm up an engine for 10 minutes? most exotics are built for high revving corner carving(so they make design considerations such as ensuring oil still reaches various areas while corning at high speed and other considerations-they have to be careful to not allow too much blowby at idle, yet maintain enough pressure under acceleration) and I've heard various things, but it mainly comes down to engine design. For example, most dragsters can't idle for long or drive at low speeds, they overheat.. most studies show idling a vehicle for an extended duration, even on exotics, actually causes problems... What are you solving by idling the engine for 10 minutes? getting the oil to temp is most common. Run the right oil for the outside temp and that isn't a problem.. and let it warm up (via driving it normally) to get it the oil to optimal viscosity.. which is in the 190-220 range depending on type, but around 210F for w30 and 200F for w20... but the problem with idling an engine is that it isn't operating at peak efficiency.... leaving residue, carbon build up, etc... -and living in a cold climate like I do, there are other issues with extreme cold temps and idling an engine..which is why most people utilize an engine block heater, not that the car wont start, but the damage that can be done at extreme temps while idling. With that said... the engine isn't really what you are paying for with an exotic.. that's probably one of the least expensive components... as far as how inexpensive you can get a similar sized(and weight) engine to output that much power, you can get 1000hp out of a 350 sbc for around 10k...
 
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Here are my test results:


07-12-2017 Ammonia (NH3-4) Good 0 0.000 - 0.050 mg/L
07-12-2017 Nitrite (NO2) Good 0.005 0.000 - 0.100 mg/L
07-12-2017 Phosphate (PO4) Good 0.22 0.000 - 0.250 mg/L
07-12-2017 Nitrate (NO3) Good 18 0.000 - 25.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Silica (Sio2-3) Good 0.5 0.000 - 0.500 mg/L
07-12-2017 Potassium (K) High 458 350.000 - 450.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Ionic Calcium (Ca) Good 202 100.000 - 400.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Boron (B) NA NA 3.000 - 6.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Molybdenum (Mo) High 0.4 0.000 - 0.300 mg/L
07-12-2017 Strontium (Sr) Good 8.7 5.000 - 12.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Magnesium (Mg) Good 1170 1100.000 - 1400.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Iodine (I) Good 0.04 0.030 - 0.090 mg/L
07-12-2017 Copper (Cu) Good 0.07 0.000 - 0.100 mg/L
07-12-2017 Alkalinity (meq/L) Good 3.35 2.500 - 5.000 meq/L
07-12-2017 Total Calcium (Ca) Good 400 350.000 - 450.000 mg/L
07-12-2017 Iron (Fe) NA NA 0.000 - 0.010 mg/L




FYI- I lost an emperor angel and flame angel Im so frustrated right now- have no clue whats going on. If anyone sees anything obvious- let me know but I dont see anything so out of whack that I would lose all these fish in a short period of time.
 
Are the fish eating right up until they die? Or do they start acting a little shy and not eating maybe a day before? It kind of sounds like something bacterial, but not a fast killing version like I've seen in the past. Argh, sorry to hear about this!
 
Good point.. and off topic... why would you warm up an engine for 10 minutes? most exotics are built for high revving corner carving(so they make design considerations such as ensuring oil still reaches various areas while corning at high speed and other considerations-they have to be careful to not allow too much blowby at idle, yet maintain enough pressure under acceleration) and I've heard various things, but it mainly comes down to engine design. For example, most dragsters can't idle for long or drive at low speeds, they overheat.. most studies show idling a vehicle for an extended duration, even on exotics, actually causes problems... What are you solving by idling the engine for 10 minutes? getting the oil to temp is most common. Run the right oil for the outside temp and that isn't a problem.. and let it warm up (via driving it normally) to get it the oil to optimal viscosity.. which is in the 190-220 range depending on type, but around 210F for w30 and 200F for w20... but the problem with idling an engine is that it isn't operating at peak efficiency.... leaving residue, carbon build up, etc... -and living in a cold climate like I do, there are other issues with extreme cold temps and idling an engine..which is why most people utilize an engine block heater, not that the car wont start, but the damage that can be done at extreme temps while idling. With that said... the engine isn't really what you are paying for with an exotic.. that's probably one of the least expensive components... as far as how inexpensive you can get a similar sized(and weight) engine to output that much power, you can get 1000hp out of a 350 sbc for around 10k...


I start the car and head back inside to finish getting ready. Main reason is to bring oil temp up before I take it out. I started off with an E60 M5 and that car's engine is notoriously known for going out when not properly warmed up before driven. Now with my lambo and porsche, I have just developed the same habits. When oil temps are up, I drive them like I stole them.

I would have to disagree with your statement regarding the engine being the least expensive component of a car. For my E60 M5, a low mileage used engine cost $25k to replace and that's just a BMW engine. I don't even want to think about how much a porsche or lambo engine cost to replace.

Sorry to the OP, I hope you find out what is causing these fish death. Have you checked for diseases?
 
Those water test results look great. I'm wondering about nutrition also, but I don't see how that would start killing this many fish all at once. You didn't have a cucumber or something else toxic die?
 
It's two fish- both angels. That's why I thought of diet.
Other possibilities could be injury - rabbitfish spine poisoning, rockfall
Then diseases - bacterial, viral, parasite
 
We have seen issues like this in Los Angeles. It turned out that it was chloramines in the tap water. Even with a 5 stage RO/DI there were still issues. Losing Fresh and Salt Fish.

I stopped the fish loss by add (2) of the CHlora blockers from BRS to each RO unit and then running through 2 chambers of DI resin.

The water districts don't always report when and what they are adding to the water.

Dave B
 
We have seen issues like this in Los Angeles. It turned out that it was chloramines in the tap water. Even with a 5 stage RO/DI there were still issues. Losing Fresh and Salt Fish.

I stopped the fish loss by add (2) of the CHlora blockers from BRS to each RO unit and then running through 2 chambers of DI resin.

The water districts don't always report when and what they are adding to the water.

Dave B

Crap- I thought I had a pretty kick *** ro di system but you might've right Dave. It might be the damn chlorine. Ok- I'll run some tests when I get home. On the road for a few days.
 
I wish I had found this thread when I first joined RC. Almost 2.5 hours later and I just finished... and the videos didn't even work so I could have easily spent another 30 minutes on this thread haha.

Sorry you lost your coral last fall. Hopefully you figure out what's causing the fish deaths soon.
 
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