Achilles Torben
Member
Congratulations, thanks for sharing. Unbelievable...
1000 Gallon Build- Here we go- Lots of Pictures
- Thread starter Socaltoaz
- Start date
rickztahone
New member
Love the matching color of the bar much better than the previous color.
BigJohnny
Active member
Everything's awesome obviously. Is it just me though or is the right side of the stand shorter than the left? I know the picture is at an angle but it looks like the floor is not level to the tank. Maybe it was constructed unevenly to level out the tank?
cprice
New member
I'm very confident that is just the distortion if the picture. There is no way the builders would have gotten away with an uneven floor! [emoji16]
Agree. The black paint started peeling off the bar cause of some contamination. Cabinet guys had to repaint it regardless so I told them to do it white. Worked out much better.
Thanks Elliott. I've enjoyed your set up as well. Very nicely done
sfsuphysics
Active member
I realize this is a bit late....sorry I don't read this forum that often.
2 forms of automation that are must have.
1) Freshwater top off, my system is fairly large so I simply have an aqualifter pump on a timer, my sump is larger than most (maybe even yours!
) so I'm not worried about overflow, and the fact the aqualifter moves so little water means that at most I add a bit more once every month or two manually. I should use a series of float switches or something, but the reality is I have a rather small RO/DI reservoir (40 gallons), so even if it was stuck on for a long time, that wouldn't overflow my sump (most of my sump is empty).2) Lighting. Seems obvious, but not turning lights on and off is quite nice, and really has no downside should that part of the system fails.
None of these are done with any fancy controller, ok the top off technically does, as does the lighting but only in an on/off fashion, the true controlling of the lights comes from a $60 Arduino controller (sorry I forget what lighting you're going with, but it probably has its own controller interface). For these two things something like an Apex is absolutely not necessary.
Things I've had automated before, feeding. This was nice, because the fish swarmed me less when I came into the room, however quite a few times I thought there was food in there, but there really wasn't... then there was the mishap of accidentally knocking the whole thing into the tank
I feel like nothing else needs to be automated, while having the pulse of your tank can be nice, and I'm sure an Apex is better than it's predecessor, I got sold (and I mean that literally) an expensive AquaController 3 (said predecessor) and at the end of the day it was a really expensive light timer, and yeah it did allow me to remotely see pH & Temp, but whoopy.
Achilles Torben
Member
I'm not a expect but I like the new colour of the bar much more. I also think that the dark color down and up the aquarium pick up the focus to much. I think also white will lead the focus more to the aquarium. I hope I can say that...
Anyone have experience with this stuff for aquascaping?
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-reef-saver-dry-aquarium-live-rock.html
Or is the stuff from Walt smith real reef rock better at 3-4 times the price? Plan is to lay dry rock and aqua scape and then seed the rock with some pieces of live rock in the tank and sump.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-reef-saver-dry-aquarium-live-rock.html
Or is the stuff from Walt smith real reef rock better at 3-4 times the price? Plan is to lay dry rock and aqua scape and then seed the rock with some pieces of live rock in the tank and sump.
csantanavaz
New member
I used dry rock with my build this time around. Nothing on your scale. But personally I couldn't have preferred it more. Got to take my time with the scape. Allowed the reef cement and epoxy to set properly. And it was far less messier and in general so much better. No phosphate leakage as I run bio pellets so no worries about that either. As you'll be adding some live rock to help seed it I personally think dry rock will be much easier and less stressful in terms of rushing your scape and getting some good shelves and bridges for fish & corals!
I used dry rock and seeded it with a piece of LR from a known tank with no known pests, you can also use sand from a similar source.
BRS rock was high in phosphates (due to dead organisms inside), so I don't recommend.
Marco rock had very low phosphates and was placed directly without issues.
http://www.marcorocks.com
BRS rock was high in phosphates (due to dead organisms inside), so I don't recommend.
Marco rock had very low phosphates and was placed directly without issues.
http://www.marcorocks.com
my experience was with Tonga branch BRS dry rock
rickztahone
New member
I just wanted to say, with regards to those last few pictures, as a photographer I know this effect is called the "pincushion distortion" effect. Typically cameras will have software with algorhythms that deal with this effect to correct it, but sometimes, depending on the lens, it is very difficult to do. This is the case for these pictures, you can cleary see the effect and they can be fixed very easily in an editing program. I am not saying to go through the trouble of actually fixing these, I just wanted others to know that this is only a photograph problem, rather than a build problem 
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