Indeed a good read. Once thing that stuck out to me is that the author himself uses the continuous water change method. He does mention doing the occasional larger continuous water change but uses the smaller daily water change method like what I would suggest. This quote from him reflects my feelings as well.
"These changes are slightly less efficient than single batch water changes of the same total volume. A continuous water change of 30% exactly matches one batch 26% water change. As with very small batch water changes, these have the advantage of neither stressing the organisms (assuming the change is done reasonably slowly), nor altering the water level in the aquarium. The ease of doing such changes automatically also makes it far more likely that busy or lazy aquarists will actually do them."
The key in my mind and experience is that nitrate levels will be the best indicator of the effectiveness of the water changes. Start off with smaller water changes and if the nitrates are detectable, increase the amount until you find the correct balance. With continuous daily water changes the parameters in the tank will be much more consistent which will make finding the correct balance in terms of monthly or weekly volume much easier. Obviously other factors like Calcium levels and Alk need attention in a reef system. For larger tanks with minimal calcium uptake, no additional supplementation may been needed however in a reef system with lots of corals taking up the elements, calcium and Alk dosing or a calcium reactor may be required. At this stage, I don't think any of those factors are a real concern for Sam. At least not until he gets a bunch of coral in his system. There isn't really anything in there taking up those elements and if his salt is being mixed to 1.025 or 1.026, his calcium and Alk levels should be fine for now. He also doesn't have a load and because of that, there should be much if any detectable nutrients at this stage.
