120 build started!
- Thread starter pascal32
- Start date
mr.maroonsalty
New member
Nice looking build!
Rough lumber, is for rough framing; you have skilz, and I would have encouraged you to build a plywood cabinet and face frame it. A good bead of PL Premium below the false top may be a simple solution, as may be a simple 1/8" rip. Another solution would be to come up an equal distance from the bottom, attach straight cleats all around to use as a circular saw guide and make a quick rip all around taking out any crowns up or down.
Rough lumber, is for rough framing; you have skilz, and I would have encouraged you to build a plywood cabinet and face frame it. A good bead of PL Premium below the false top may be a simple solution, as may be a simple 1/8" rip. Another solution would be to come up an equal distance from the bottom, attach straight cleats all around to use as a circular saw guide and make a quick rip all around taking out any crowns up or down.
Trust me, I'm not that talented. I just take chances to try new things and learn from my mistakes!
Thought crossed my mind. I refrained in hopes that I could find another set of 2x6s that is the same width instead of trying to plain level. The creative side of me thought about tacking on straight bars on either side and creating a jig to run the router on to plane everything. for once I decided not to pursue my vivid imagination
here's a writeup on it: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/flattenaworkbenchwitharouter.aspxThanks for compliments. I'm very new to woodworking and have very little experience. I'm still naive enough to prefer the tough look of 2x4's and 2x6s though realistically your suggestion is probably more sound. he suggestion on the PL Premium is an interesting thought. considering the weight distribution that should do the trick! The ripping is also a very sound suggestion - though i question whether I could pull it off. I generally buy nice tools, unfortunately the circular saw is a piece of garbage. I was surprised I got the cuts out if it I did.
care to take me under your wing and teach me how to do things right?
mr.maroonsalty
New member
Sure, what I was talking about was measuring up accurately from the bottom all around to a distance to where a level cut is wanted minus the distance from the blade to the edge of the saws base (usually 4 7/8-5" or 1 1/2"), then using something that is straight like plywood rips attached to that line, you run the edge of the circular saws base right along the cleat making a perfect straight cut all around. Problems you could run into are the blade tracking off if you are taking less than a blades width of material which is best taken care of by taking it slow with a sharp blade. Another problem is cutting at an angle by not keeping the bed flat against the stock, using the wider part of the saws bed against the cleat helps prevent this. Of course, you need to pay attention to keep solid contact the entire length of the side of the bed against the cleat and the flat of the saw solidly against the material for the whole cut.
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tonight made up for this weekends ending! i arrived to a new Fiji Purple bulb which did a great job popping the greens in my current 72. I was hoping for more reds, maybe it's just from reading all the hype on this bulb.
Back to the stand! I picked up a new 2x6 which was unbelievably straight and maintained width within 0.81 mm (yes, I used my calipers in the isles of Lowes!).
I replaced the top and it is within 1/32 flat which I'm figuring is pretty darn good. I was prepared to rip the edges on the table saw, just didn't see a need! Even had the rip blade out. The whole stand is slightly off level (touching edge of bubble), but consistent to one side which means it is not twisted. The area of the house it is going to isn't perfectly level, so some shimming is in order regardless.
I will say that when i built another stand I'm going plywood and skipping this headache.
On an interesting note i was thinking of mr.maroonsalty comment on rough cut wood. I got a straight edge out and was suprised to see this on the original back piece:
end to end the piece was pretty good, though over a 2 foot section there was a 1/8th inch gap.
If anyone goes to built a stand like this get a straight edge and double check!
The sides are glued on and are currently clamped and drying.
looking forward to staining! soon soon soon!
Back to the stand! I picked up a new 2x6 which was unbelievably straight and maintained width within 0.81 mm (yes, I used my calipers in the isles of Lowes!).
I replaced the top and it is within 1/32 flat which I'm figuring is pretty darn good. I was prepared to rip the edges on the table saw, just didn't see a need! Even had the rip blade out. The whole stand is slightly off level (touching edge of bubble), but consistent to one side which means it is not twisted. The area of the house it is going to isn't perfectly level, so some shimming is in order regardless.
I will say that when i built another stand I'm going plywood and skipping this headache.
On an interesting note i was thinking of mr.maroonsalty comment on rough cut wood. I got a straight edge out and was suprised to see this on the original back piece:
end to end the piece was pretty good, though over a 2 foot section there was a 1/8th inch gap.
If anyone goes to built a stand like this get a straight edge and double check!
The sides are glued on and are currently clamped and drying.
looking forward to staining! soon soon soon!
mr86mister
Saltaholic
Everything is looking fantastic Pascal. Can't wait to see the finished product!
backdraft79
New member
Sweet build! I like the look of the stand!
Willistein
Active member
Are you going to put some kind of foam between the stand and the tank? I was thinking of doing something like that since I also went the 2x4 route.
Willistein
Active member
I've seen lots of people put a layer of foam under tanks to help distribute the weight evenly on normal tanks and rimless tanks. I used some felt at one point, not sure how neccessary or effective it is though.
That is a great suggestion. I should have done that. The skins are on, so no flipping the 2 by's now. I'm not worried about it - the stand is nice and flat
tomorrow is staining!Putting foam under rimmed tank could cause pressure points under the bottom pane.It could crack.
Rimmed tanks are generally designed to distribute most of the weight to the four corners and outside perimeter to some degree.Putting foam under the tank could be done as long as you account for this and dont create a pressure point under the bottom pane.
Basically it would have to be a pretty thin layer of foam
Rimmed tanks are generally designed to distribute most of the weight to the four corners and outside perimeter to some degree.Putting foam under the tank could be done as long as you account for this and dont create a pressure point under the bottom pane.
Basically it would have to be a pretty thin layer of foam
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Willistein
Active member
I don't mean the bottom pane, just the 4 edges where the plastic rim is. To distribute the weight to the plastic rim and, in turn, the glass itself, evenly. Looking very nice, Pascal!
well, stupid struck. we picked the stain out of 5 different ones, then I went back to get a bigger can. I must have grabbed the wrong one - I didn't notice it till it was too late. I just kept going even though the color is 99% what i didn't want. oh well. I guess I'll be trying to figure out how to make it red like it was supposed to be tomorrow
Blurry looks really nice.I love the joinery work you did with the router.
Red mahogany has a real nice reddish look and could still be an option if you wanted.It would cover the brown you have if your not happy with it.
Also, just wanted to mention when working with stains that have red in them.The first coat has a tendancy to come out brownish looking and by applying a second coat you'll notice the red come out.Like you mentioned though ,if you got the right can.
Just passing along some thoughts.
Red mahogany has a real nice reddish look and could still be an option if you wanted.It would cover the brown you have if your not happy with it.
Also, just wanted to mention when working with stains that have red in them.The first coat has a tendancy to come out brownish looking and by applying a second coat you'll notice the red come out.Like you mentioned though ,if you got the right can.
Just passing along some thoughts.
Willistein,
sorry , I probably just misread or misinterpreted what you meant.Working on 12 hr days ,wicked tired.
I agree with what you posted above.:beer:
