125 Gallon Upgrade

Dashylock

New member
Picked up a used 125g rr tank yesterday from a local RC member, as well as a new stand. I'm going to be upgrading from a 40 breeder to this standard 6' 125g.



Have a couple questions regarding the plumbing (drilling the stand and sump setup), tank transfer, reinforcing the stand, sealing the stand and making nsw.



The stand I bought is not rr, what kind of bit do I need to drill the Holes for the corner overflows? Are there any diagrams out there that depict where I need to drill the stand? Willing drilling or sawing the stand decrease the integrity and load bearing ability of the stand? The way it sits, doesn't seem like this stand can support 1200 lbs, its an R+J stand.

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I want to seal the inside of the stand with watertight sealant, like Krilz2 and then paint it white for visibility. I assume any latex based sealant should do the job, but what about paint "“ do I need marine paint?



The existing plumbing used 3/4" soft tubing, I want to hard plumb the return and drain as well as incorporate an emergency drain. Should I bump up the PVC size to 1" so that I don't restrict any flow? Do I need a gate valve for every return/drain line?



There is one check valve w union fitting and ball valve on the return right after the pump...should I have an additional check valve after the T and before the opposite overflow? What other fittings would I need to hard plumb this system? Do I need to replace these bulkheads? The return looks like its primed and has barbed connections "“ how would I attach hard pvc to this fitting if I can't remove the barbed connection?

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Here is a pic of the 35 gallon acrylic sump and mag drive pump that came with the tank. It has four chambers, from right to left (drain, skimmer (fuge), baffles, return.) Does that seem like the right orientation?
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Tank Transfer Plans (let me know if this is a good plan), I will not be adding any new livestock so bioload will be the same or less "“ not anticipating a major cycle, a mini cycle yes:

1.Set up all dry equipment and plumbing on 125

2.Remove live rock from 40b and place into totes

3.Remove 50% water from 40 and place into 5 gallon buckets

4.Remove livestock/corals from 40 and place into buckets

5.Take few cups of 40b sand to seed 125

6.Travel 5 miles to new tank location

7.Fill 125 with ~ 50% nsw

8.Add existing live rock (~40 lbs) to 125

9.Add 100lbs new dry aragonite sand and 2 cups live sand from 40b

10.Fill 125 with remaining % of nsw and existing 40b nsw, don't know how or where I can get 100g of nsw "“ don't have the ability to make that much nsw in advance?

11.Turn on pump/powerheads and cross fingers



Will use my existing Vertex 130 skimmer which was overkill on my 40 and my bioload is low enough where I think it can handle the 125g. Will also use 2 (wp25) and if needed a Koralia 1000 gph "“ is this enough flow for the 125?

That's all I can think of for the moment, just want to get this upgrade going! Thanks for reading!
 
Looks like my tank is larger than a 125. Dimensions are 72"*18.7"*25"... I think the tank is too wide for the stand! What options do I have?
 
Well I would do away with that check valve. I would also run 1.5" return to tank. This way you can upgrade pump later on. I would do soft spa line to connect to pump then you can run hard PVC line rest of the way. This way soft line is easy to move pump around when you cleaning sump it also helps with vibration. For drains I would do the herbie system. This would be 2 main drains and two emergency drains as I would imagine that this tank has two overflows with two lines each. So it it would be two 1" main drains and two 3/4" drains. This was you can run 3500 gallons an hour pump with no problem. I had a 125 running a dart pump then I switched it to jebao dc12000. The dc pump kicks butt for $100 you can't go wrong. I will post some pics of plumbing if you like.
 
Well I would do away with that check valve. I would also run 1.5" return to tank. This way you can upgrade pump later on. I would do soft spa line to connect to pump then you can run hard PVC line rest of the way. This way soft line is easy to move pump around when you cleaning sump it also helps with vibration. For drains I would do the herbie system. This would be 2 main drains and two emergency drains as I would imagine that this tank has two overflows with two lines each. So it it would be two 1" main drains and two 3/4" drains. This was you can run 3500 gallons an hour pump with no problem. I had a 125 running a dart pump then I switched it to jebao dc12000. The dc pump kicks butt for $100 you can't go wrong. I will post some pics of plumbing if you like.

Hey Jonny thanks for the input. I just bought all my piping/fittings today, was gonna use 1" hard pvc all the way around for return and drain, and leave 1" spa tubing for pump with a union, ball valve, then a wye fitting. Ya, I didnt plan on keeping the check valve - nightmare waiting to happen!

Yes, the tank has 2 overflows, 1 return and 1 drain on either side. Can you post up some pics of the Herbie setup - how do the 3/4" emergency drains hook into the 1" drains? Could i run a closed loop with 3800 gph, if yes, then I will look into buying a dc12000.

For those interested - started sanding my stand and applying kilz 2 primer; going to paint the stand with a high gloss white marine paint.
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18.7 is weird. either way that is just under 150 gallons.

Ya, its 0.2" wider than standard. I bought a 6' 2x3 and am gonna screw it to the back stand so the excess lip that would hang can rest on it. Hope there is enough durability.
 
I would totally get new bulkheads and redo all the plumbing. It sounds like you are moving? Ideally you should get the large tank up and running first with sand ( if you choose) and either base or live rock. You can the, seed with some sand and rock from your breeder. Let that cycle all on its own before doing a full transfer, unless you want to use the cross your fingers method. I wouldn't. Only way to consider a full transfer is if you used super ultra cured live or base rock and would avoid or minimize a cycle.

I'm currently in a similar situation. I do have the luxury however of going slow which sounds like you may not? My tank has been running for a couple months empty, and I'm going to be adding my first fish soon. Good luck!

Oh, and as far as modifying the stand, just don't touch any beams. If you go through just the plywood, you'll be fine. You can use hole saws, or just cut out rectangular pieces with a jigsaw (easiest).
 
I would totally get new bulkheads and redo all the plumbing. It sounds like you are moving? Ideally you should get the large tank up and running first with sand ( if you choose) and either base or live rock. You can the, seed with some sand and rock from your breeder. Let that cycle all on its own before doing a full transfer, unless you want to use the cross your fingers method. I wouldn't. Only way to consider a full transfer is if you used super ultra cured live or base rock and would avoid or minimize a cycle.

I'm currently in a similar situation. I do have the luxury however of going slow which sounds like you may not? My tank has been running for a couple months empty, and I'm going to be adding my first fish soon. Good luck!

Oh, and as far as modifying the stand, just don't touch any beams. If you go through just the plywood, you'll be fine. You can use hole saws, or just cut out rectangular pieces with a jigsaw (easiest).
Thanks for the advice rovster! 2 of the 4 bulkheads have been PVC cemented to the tank, and I noticed a ton of salt creep around the bulkheads. How do I replace them if they are glued in?

I'm not moving but have to have the tank up by August 19 - gives me roughly 2 weeks. Only issue is that I can't move this thing outside to clean it and I don't have a jigsaw to cut the plywood rectangles on the stand. Im also unsure how to reinforce this stand to give it more structural support...I need some help!

Seriously if anyone is willing to help me get this tank going I will hook you up with frags food and beer!
 
Well I would not do closed loop as I just went through the trouble installing one and I am not impressed by the flow on the closed loop. Here are a couple pics. You should change plumbing as flow will be very restricted with 1" pipe. You will only be limited to high pressure pumps

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Well bulk heads easy to remove and replace. If you need help and your near Pines I can help you out. If you need a jigsaw or something to cut I can let your borrow one. As for structure support post pics of the inner of the stand. I don't believe cutting those rectangles will effect it. I have seen people use uniseals as well for the drains. If you setup your plumbing and stand prior to the move it will make life much easier.
 
Jonny thanks so much for your help...I am in Boca, probably too far. But I will probably need to borrow that jigsaw sometime!

The drains both have 1.5" durso, so I would need to buy 2 1.5" double slip bulkheads and 2 1" bulkheads for the return, is that correct?
Lifegard Aquatics 1-1/2-Inch Standard Threaded Bulkhead https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002HBL9A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Iv53tb137KHH42HH
Lifegard Aquatics 1-Inch Slip Bulkhead Fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DKAKA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_qy53tb171VCGR1NK

I need to take a closer look at your pics when I get home and see if I can mock up a plumbing diagram.
 
Here are some more pics of the stand and sump:

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I was thinking a center 1*4 brace and an additional 1*3 on the top and bottom of each corner, will that be sufficient?
 
Finished sanding the exterior, primed with kilz 2, and added one coat of Rust Oleum Marine Gloss White paint.

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I'd recommend getting bulkheads with threads on the inside so you can remove the standpipes and clean the overflow/standpipes every now and then
 
I'd recommend getting bulkheads with threads on the inside so you can remove the standpipes and clean the overflow/standpipes every now and then

Only needed for the return. Both my drains just slip in, and its been fine.
 
Only needed for the return. Both my drains just slip in, and its been fine.

but are they glued in? if so, how do you clean the crud that settles in the bottom of the overflow? siphoning is a PITA on full size overflows
 
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