180g Starphire A.G.E on its way!
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GSMguy
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11991457#post11991457 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
Are the internal Deluxe's recirculating, too?
Edit: just saw your "occupation" LOL :lol: have you seen Sang's sig?
sorry i just meant the externals were recirculating
ive seen sang's sig.
And Cartman has threads on multiple forums i replied too and he called me his stalker soo.....
tbone28
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11962756#post11962756 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
OK, guys. Need your help to figure out what this stuff on my sand is, how I got it, and how I can get rid of it. It looks like a brown, hairy algae
I've tried vacumming the sand, but it comes back. Am I feeding too much?
Water params:
Temp 78-79
Ca 420
Alk 9
Mg 1300
Nitrates zero
PO4 0.02 (hannah)
OK, so this cyano (if that's what it is) is really bugging me. I bought some chemi-clean, but hesitant to put it in.
Someone told me that this stuff can cause a tank to crash. Have you guys used this stuff before?
The thing with my cyano was it wasn't flow or nutrient related.. which it looks like tbone's isn't as well... as i and others mentioned before, its just a stage...
Mine was blowing around in the flow...
i used a product called red slime control. or red slime remover... i think. i used the correct dose and it was gone 5 days later, never to return...
also, it didn't even slightly stress a single coral, fish, or invert that i had in the tank...
Mine was blowing around in the flow...
i used a product called red slime control. or red slime remover... i think. i used the correct dose and it was gone 5 days later, never to return...
also, it didn't even slightly stress a single coral, fish, or invert that i had in the tank...
chris wright
In Memoriam
The chemical free option is to turn of all your lights on your tank for 3 days. Prepare enough water to do a 30% or more water change, and before you turn your lights back on, on the fourth day, do the water change. You'll find that this method is very effective.
Don't cover the tank, just try to reduce as much light as you can. It won't hurt your corals, and to feed your fish, turn on a light for just long enough to feed them.
I plan this so the water change falls on a weekend, so think ahead before doing it, or you will have to do a water change before going to work
After this, then increase the flow, and try to keep up with good nutrient export. The lights out method will take care of algae's too, if you have any. I find this method leaves my system looking really clean.
I would start re-using carbon again too, I think this helps will contaminants in the system.
HTH
Don't cover the tank, just try to reduce as much light as you can. It won't hurt your corals, and to feed your fish, turn on a light for just long enough to feed them.
I plan this so the water change falls on a weekend, so think ahead before doing it, or you will have to do a water change before going to work
After this, then increase the flow, and try to keep up with good nutrient export. The lights out method will take care of algae's too, if you have any. I find this method leaves my system looking really clean.
I would start re-using carbon again too, I think this helps will contaminants in the system.
HTH
tbone28
Active member
I also don't want to use chemicals if I don't have to, but I can't figure out what's going on. The chemi-clean I bought is for removing cyano.
I think Melev used this stuff before, but I can't find where in his 1000 pages of thread he talked about it
I got scared with the chemi-clean cuz someone told me it can cause a tank crash.
I think Melev used this stuff before, but I can't find where in his 1000 pages of thread he talked about it
I got scared with the chemi-clean cuz someone told me it can cause a tank crash.
tbone28
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11995571#post11995571 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris wright
The chemical free option is to turn of all your lights on your tank for 3 days. Prepare enough water to do a 30% or more water change, and before you turn your lights back on, on the fourth day, do the water change. You'll find that this method is very effective.
Don't cover the tank, just try to reduce as much light as you can. It won't hurt your corals, and to feed your fish, turn on a light for just long enough to feed them.
I plan this so the water change falls on a weekend, so think ahead before doing it, or you will have to do a water change before going to work
After this, then increase the flow, and try to keep up with good nutrient export. The lights out method will take care of algae's too, if you have any. I find this method leaves my system looking really clean.
I would start re-using carbon again too, I think this helps will contaminants in the system.
HTH
This is interesting. i remember seeing this thread, but never actually read it. I'm up for giving it a try, but wondering if I need any more flow that I already have with my 6201's.
melev
Well-known member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11995574#post11995574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
I also don't want to use chemicals if I don't have to, but I can't figure out what's going on. The chemi-clean I bought is for removing cyano.
I think Melev used this stuff before, but I can't find where in his 1000 pages of thread he talked about it
I got scared with the chemi-clean cuz someone told me it can cause a tank crash.
Yep, I've used it many times, as well as Blue Life's Red Slime Control. Both work fine. Turn off the skimmer, disconnect any carbon and GFO you run, mix it up in a cup of tank water and dose the system. After 72 hours or so, do a 25% water change, adjust the water level in your skimmer as far down as you can and fire it up. Plan on throwing out a lot of skimmate for the first 6 or so hours. Just replace it with more saltwater.
I've also done the 3 Days of Darkness method which worked just fine. I lost a couple of SPS frags, but my reef looked great and water clarity was noteworthy.
My wifi is slow tonight, and I was getting frustrated reading through your thread 
chris wright
In Memoriam
I lost two tinny frags, but I think my urchin broke them off :lol: IMO if a coral is lost to this method, there must be something unseen that leads to it's demise. Maybe something nocturnal has done the damage, who nows? but not as the result of lack of light.
I think the lights out idea only replicates nature in a way. Think of a big storm over the reef, it may last a few hours to a few days, so it happens in nature to have lights out in a manner of speaking. I find this the most effective method for beating cyano. I tried chemicals when I first started, but I learnt to address the problems, which I believe is primarily nutrient export.
I've read that to survive cyano needs light, nutirents, poor water flow and temperature's above 18 Celcius. Obvioulsy we can't change the temps, water flow is easily fixed, but doesn't remove the actual food source of cyano, just moves nutrients to other area's. Now the light can be cut out which works, but if the nutrients are still in your system, the cyano will come back, and it doesn't need much to come back, hence the big water changes in the outlined method.
I don't believe increased flow fixes the problems, because once solids are broken down, and if not skimmed out, then they fuel nuicence algae's and cyano, But this just my opinion.
So I think you need to look at the amount you feed, types of food, and your husbandry. Are you getting good skimmate? and if not, are you doing regular water changes? These little things will add up to cause problems. Even in a mature tank it can come back.
I'm a big fan of water changes, especially in the early stages of a tank's maturity, as I believe this is the best way to get nutrients out of our systems.
I think the lights out idea only replicates nature in a way. Think of a big storm over the reef, it may last a few hours to a few days, so it happens in nature to have lights out in a manner of speaking. I find this the most effective method for beating cyano. I tried chemicals when I first started, but I learnt to address the problems, which I believe is primarily nutrient export.
I've read that to survive cyano needs light, nutirents, poor water flow and temperature's above 18 Celcius. Obvioulsy we can't change the temps, water flow is easily fixed, but doesn't remove the actual food source of cyano, just moves nutrients to other area's. Now the light can be cut out which works, but if the nutrients are still in your system, the cyano will come back, and it doesn't need much to come back, hence the big water changes in the outlined method.
I don't believe increased flow fixes the problems, because once solids are broken down, and if not skimmed out, then they fuel nuicence algae's and cyano, But this just my opinion.
So I think you need to look at the amount you feed, types of food, and your husbandry. Are you getting good skimmate? and if not, are you doing regular water changes? These little things will add up to cause problems. Even in a mature tank it can come back.
I'm a big fan of water changes, especially in the early stages of a tank's maturity, as I believe this is the best way to get nutrients out of our systems.
tbone28
Active member
Obviously by my cyano posts above, I feed too much :lol:
I've been curious about making my own fish recipe, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I currently have spectrum pellets, formula one and two pellets, cyclopeeze, frozen formula one, frozen spirulina, frozen PE mysis, frozen hikari brine, Rod's food, Artic-pods and seaweed.
I usually drop in a cube of brine, throw in some pellets, or squeeze some Arcti-pods before work, and clamp on some seaweed. When I get home, I'll throw some cyclopeeze, some pellets, spirulina, and either brine, Rod's or mysis in a cup, soak with Selcon, Zoe, and some garlic extreme. I'll clamp on some more seaweed. And if I'm bored, I'll throw in a few pellets before the lights go out.
Once a week or two, I'll add some DT's oyster eggs for the coral.
chris wright
In Memoriam
You should try making your own food, it's not hard, and the fish will love it. Use fresh stuff and try to leave out as much of the commercially prepared foods as possible, as these can be the source of po4. It's ok to add some, just not a lot.
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