220 Inwall - Plan
- Thread starter bheron
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bheron
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UPDATE
UPDATE
At the suggestion of Marc and some others, I finished shimming/leveling the tank. To my surprise, I actually was able to get it more level than I ever expected!
But, first, some updated pics of the basement...
Primer is on...
The paint and trim is done...
And the doors!!!
Gym - we had two windows put in and they totally change the entire feel of the room....
- should be finished end of this week when the carpet is installed!!!
UPDATE
At the suggestion of Marc and some others, I finished shimming/leveling the tank. To my surprise, I actually was able to get it more level than I ever expected!
But, first, some updated pics of the basement...
Primer is on...
The paint and trim is done...
And the doors!!!
Gym - we had two windows put in and they totally change the entire feel of the room....
- should be finished end of this week when the carpet is installed!!!
bheron
Active member
Update #3 - Leveling
As many of you know that have been tagging along, I've been obsessed with making sure this stand is level, including one blow out with my contractor.
First, I used these metal plates as shims for their durability:
I attached them to all of the verticals that we not completely touching the cement floor.
Then, over the weekend, I doubled it up -- I was worried that so much weight would be resting on such a small area (shim) that I went out and put in a 2nd round of identical shims onto each vertical to give it more surface area.
I also painted these in Rustolem at the suggestion of Weatherson...
So, as of last night, the stand was double-reinforced with metal shims under all vertical supports.
Then, on a suggest by Marc, I cust custom shims, or wafers, to support the rest of the stand (bottom horizontals). The idea was to make sure that every part of the stand bottom was touching the ground or a shim.
I got a piece of pressure treated 2x4 and slowly cut little wedges until I found one that would fit each slot (I never realized how hard it is to cut a pressure treated 2x4 with a chop saw!)
Anyway, it was an EXTREMELY tedious project, but in the end I was quite happy with the results.
Here's a shot of the front of the stand, where it touches the floor. Not sure if you can see the little, brown shims, about 1 3/4 inches wide, between the bottom and the floor...
Here's the same shot, but from the other side of the stand
I have to say, I feel much better that I have these in now!
And, like I mentioned above, in the end this thing is as close to 100% level as someone like me will ever get it. I'd say its, maybe, 1/16" off over 6 feet, if that! I should take a picture of the level I'm so proud! :rollface:
As many of you know that have been tagging along, I've been obsessed with making sure this stand is level, including one blow out with my contractor.
First, I used these metal plates as shims for their durability:
I attached them to all of the verticals that we not completely touching the cement floor.
Then, over the weekend, I doubled it up -- I was worried that so much weight would be resting on such a small area (shim) that I went out and put in a 2nd round of identical shims onto each vertical to give it more surface area.
I also painted these in Rustolem at the suggestion of Weatherson...
So, as of last night, the stand was double-reinforced with metal shims under all vertical supports.
Then, on a suggest by Marc, I cust custom shims, or wafers, to support the rest of the stand (bottom horizontals). The idea was to make sure that every part of the stand bottom was touching the ground or a shim.
I got a piece of pressure treated 2x4 and slowly cut little wedges until I found one that would fit each slot (I never realized how hard it is to cut a pressure treated 2x4 with a chop saw!)
Anyway, it was an EXTREMELY tedious project, but in the end I was quite happy with the results.
Here's a shot of the front of the stand, where it touches the floor. Not sure if you can see the little, brown shims, about 1 3/4 inches wide, between the bottom and the floor...
Here's the same shot, but from the other side of the stand
I have to say, I feel much better that I have these in now!
And, like I mentioned above, in the end this thing is as close to 100% level as someone like me will ever get it. I'd say its, maybe, 1/16" off over 6 feet, if that! I should take a picture of the level I'm so proud! :rollface:
melev
Well-known member
Bryan, just when you thought you had it all done, I give you a little more homework.
Looking at the second to last picture, I can see quite a number of shims which looks great. However, there is really not all that much pressure being put on the horizontal beam (other than transference). However, looking at the corner post, where most of the weight will press down hard, the corner of the stand is floating on the metal shims. I'd like to see you fill any and all voids around the metal shim any way you can. Just pack it with small pieces as necessary. The corners (and center beam) will carry the most downward pressure, and those are the spots that need the most reinforcement possible.
Looking at the second to last picture, I can see quite a number of shims which looks great. However, there is really not all that much pressure being put on the horizontal beam (other than transference). However, looking at the corner post, where most of the weight will press down hard, the corner of the stand is floating on the metal shims. I'd like to see you fill any and all voids around the metal shim any way you can. Just pack it with small pieces as necessary. The corners (and center beam) will carry the most downward pressure, and those are the spots that need the most reinforcement possible.
bheron
Active member
marc! "youre killing me whitey, youre killing me" (I had to quote an old NFL Films "Crunchtime" line).
just kidding. I now know what you mean. Yea, those shims look pretty but they probably wont do much. I'll have to find a way to cut really thin shims to fit in between those open gaps. I couldnt do it with 2x4s anda chop saw b/c the cuts were too small. I needed something else. And, now that I had to give my friends chop saw back, I dont know how I'll cut shims that thin.
any ideas?
in other news - the contractors will be out tomorrow and the carpets being installed in Fri!! the basement will be finished and it only took 5 weeks!
just kidding. I now know what you mean. Yea, those shims look pretty but they probably wont do much. I'll have to find a way to cut really thin shims to fit in between those open gaps. I couldnt do it with 2x4s anda chop saw b/c the cuts were too small. I needed something else. And, now that I had to give my friends chop saw back, I dont know how I'll cut shims that thin.
any ideas?
in other news - the contractors will be out tomorrow and the carpets being installed in Fri!! the basement will be finished and it only took 5 weeks!
tgunn
Active member
bheron said:
I believe the correct type is the pink or blue colored stuff. The pink stuff I got from Home Depot is the brandname Styrospan. I know owens corning makes it as well.
You're basiaclly looking for the kind that when cut or snapped looks like a solid foam, rather than the regular white kind where you can see the little "beads" that make up the foam sheet.
Tyler
bheron
Active member
yea, thanks guys. I saw it last night - exactly what youre talking about, and I didnt think that was it. I saw the white stuff - with the Beads Tyler - and thought maybe that was it? I didnt get any just in case.
I think the stuff youre talking about is what I used for insulation in my tank room:
Is it that? It seems really "tough" and more like it will snap than smooth out if I were to put the tank on it. I also saw the "pink" stuff as well. Similar and didnt have a foil wrapping on it.
I read your thread, marc (and yours too tyler) - I noticed the argument was for tanks that dont have a bottom frame. Mine does (plastic) so the tank is fully supported on it. I think yours is glass and has a think, metal frame, right?
I think the stuff youre talking about is what I used for insulation in my tank room:
Is it that? It seems really "tough" and more like it will snap than smooth out if I were to put the tank on it. I also saw the "pink" stuff as well. Similar and didnt have a foil wrapping on it.
I read your thread, marc (and yours too tyler) - I noticed the argument was for tanks that dont have a bottom frame. Mine does (plastic) so the tank is fully supported on it. I think yours is glass and has a think, metal frame, right?
tgunn
Active member
bheron said:
Yes, my tank is a glass tank. It has no actual frame itself; the sides rest on the bottom pane of glass. My stand is made of steel. I put a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top of that, and then a sheet of the foam.
From the pictures you showed it looks like what you're looking for.
I'm not sure if it helps, but I used Styrospan Extruded Polystyrene:
Here's pics of similar products:
The other stuff is referred to as "expanded foam" and is the white type made of the little beads of foam (see here for a better description of the different)...
Generally the expanded stuff is really inexpensive (like 50% less than the extruded). That's another way to guage the difference.
I think either works, but I have heard some say that the expanded (bead kind) doesn't provide as even of support for your tank.
Later,
Tyler
bheron
Active member
Tyler - yep, thats the stuff I saw in home depot, too. Now I know exactly what youre talking about. I'm thinking that stuff might be a bit too much for what I need. I have a frame arond the bottom of my tank. Does that stuff compress evenly? It looks so rigid that it makes me think there might be gaps if it doesnt compress perfectly.
tgunn
Active member
bheron said:
When my steel stand was made the builder glued in pieces of styrofoam along the edges of the stand (he said I only needed to support the edges; I chose to support the whole bottom to be safe):
I imagine you could cut strips of foam like this as well and just use a spray adhesive to glue them into place along the edge of the stand...
It may seem rigid, but I bet once the tank is filled it'll settle a bit because of the sheer weight. Even half filled my tank settled into the foam a tiny bit... Yours would likely settle more because all the weight is on the edges.
Tyler
melev
Well-known member
My tank has a plastic (not metal) frame around it. The foam it under all of the tank, and I'm sure where the frame touched the foam it compressed it somewhat. With the amount of weight of glass, water, and LR, there must be about 3500 lbs on the foam. While I can't prove it now, I have no doubt the glass bottom is fully resting on the foam with no gap at all.
If your tank has a very thick frame around it, you might have to do a little marking and trimming to have it follow the contour of the tank's base.
If your tank has a very thick frame around it, you might have to do a little marking and trimming to have it follow the contour of the tank's base.
bheron
Active member
Got it fellas. I'm thinking I just need something thinner to simply smooth out any imperfections in the plywood top. I think something that thick might compromise the levelness of my stand. I dunno but I have this thing almost perfectly level.
Have you seen this stuff? I'm sure it will compress a ton under the weight of my setup, but this is more what I was thinking:
They have it at home depot.
FoamSealR Sill Plate Gasket
Thickness: 1/4"
Width: 3 1/2", 5 1/2" or 7 1/2"
Length: 50'
Use FoamSealRâ„¢ ridged sill gasket to fill the gap between the sill plate and foundation wall and prevent a significant part of this loss. As a polyethylene foam, FoamSealR is durable and moisture-resistant so it will provide a tight, uniform fit for years to come.
What do you think?
Have you seen this stuff? I'm sure it will compress a ton under the weight of my setup, but this is more what I was thinking:
They have it at home depot.
FoamSealR Sill Plate Gasket
Thickness: 1/4"
Width: 3 1/2", 5 1/2" or 7 1/2"
Length: 50'
Use FoamSealRâ„¢ ridged sill gasket to fill the gap between the sill plate and foundation wall and prevent a significant part of this loss. As a polyethylene foam, FoamSealR is durable and moisture-resistant so it will provide a tight, uniform fit for years to come.
What do you think?
melev
Well-known member
The rigid foam assures no pressure points. The foam at Home Depot is 3/4" thick, and the stuff you posted is 1/4" thick. Opting for the thicker stuff is wise. FYI, I always recommend installing an acrylic sump with that same foamboard. If it is good enough for a sump, it is definitely tank-worthy.
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