2300G Cylinder - Preview

[Diablo]

wow that sure is a long weekend ... wish i could take a weekend vacation that lasts for a month

My life is one constant party!

I got home today to find something waiting for me...

Two Abyzz 420 eco pumps plus two of these babies... carbon fiber poetry of form :

I was previously going to use a ring thruster, but when the company I was going to use told me that a key component supplier had gone out of business and that they were redesigning I had to search elsewhere. Enter stage left the Panta-rhei Hydro Wizard.

At 100% these things would boil my tank, but I will run them at about 30% surging to 50% intermittently.

I had these in the bath this afternoon. At 30% I got solid flow. At 70% surge I had water all over the floor!

A couple more shots for good measure. Hydro Wizard control gear:

Hydro wizard from front on.

My house is slowly progressing. Joinery is about 70%, tiling is completed, electrical and plumbing fit-off has started, carpet will be within the fortnight. I have started work on the sump, refugium and crypto tanks. First job is leveling the floor (like setting a shower base)... about 1/2 way through. I will take some photos tomorrow. Meanwhile, here are a couple of shots of the house.
Pantry joinery in Sydney blue gum:

Study desk & drawers; solid recycled messmate top, Tasmanian oak drawers:

Study bookshelf; Tasmanian oak:

Ensuite: Solid messmate bench; silky oak veneered drawers and cupboards; Sicis Iridium mosaics in iris degrade; polished concrete floor:

Laundry: Tasmanian Oak veneer cabinetry with Caesar Stone (manufactured stone-resin composite) bench-top in Glacier; Sicis Murano Smalto mosaics in "coral"

Main bathroom: Solid messmate bench; silky oak veneered drawers and cupboards; Sicis Iridium mosaics in fern degrade; polished concrete floor:

Out of image quota for this post!

 

[robvdv]

Okay. That's bonkers.

 

[Diablo]

A couple more...

North side deck (to be) area. Now with red retractable awning:

Front entry. Wifey doesn't like the door. Will paint the frame same blue as iron and the door same red as awning:

Winter garden:

Master bedroom with awning:

Just in case you forgot what the aquarium looks like:

 

[Beaun]

Coming along nicely, those hydro wizards are beasts.

 

[Elliott]

are you planning to use one Panta-rhei Hydro Wizard for circulation in the tank? how often do you suppose you'll need to clean it? If it needs repair what will you do for back up?

 

[Zuska]

wow AMAZING tank build!!! cant wait for the water to go in and see all the fish and coral in their!

 

[Diablo]

are you planning to use one Panta-rhei Hydro Wizard for circulation in the tank?

No Elliot, I am using 2 x hydro wizards plus 2 x Abyzz 420 ecos on closed loop. Hydro wizards as per below:

how often do you suppose you'll need to clean it? If it needs repair what will you do for back up?

I recon about once every 6 months. If I do one at a time it should be OK.

For me the selection of a robust propeller pump is all about electrical efficiency. At 100%, the hydro wizards draw ~600W. However, propeller pumps have an inverse cubed relationship between power and RPM, so at 30% speed, the power should drop to around 20W and at 50% surge should be ~70W.

These things are clearly hydro-dynamically engineered. Their shape looks very similar to the intake bell of an industrial propeller pump.

 

[Diablo]

Coming along nicely, those hydro wizards are beasts.

:inlove: Yes they are. It's been a while since I've had so much fun in the bath!

wow AMAZING tank build!!! cant wait for the water to go in and see all the fish and coral in their!

Me too Zuska... it feels like its been years... oh wait... it has been years.

 

[Elliott]

you will have plenty of flow, to say the least, nice pumps

 

[Diablo]

BTW Elliott, sincere thanks for pressure testing my decisions. Unlike some threads here, I am not seeking design by committee... I have a fairly clear idea of where I am headed, but nevertheless, it is handy to have one's approach scrutinized by experienced members.

 

[Elliott]

BTW Elliott, sincere thanks for pressure testing my decisions. Unlike some threads here, I am not seeking design by committee... I have a fairly clear idea of where I am headed, but nevertheless, it is handy to have one's approach scrutinized by experienced members.

:thumbsup:

along those lines, if I remember correctly, you were planning to run your QT on the same system as your DT and rely on a UV to prevent disease from entering your DT, I'd rethink this if I were you

far better to run separate systems without water contact, dealing with disease is a significant problem on many fronts with a volume the size of your DT

 

[kookie_guy]

This is incredible. Love seeing stuff like this. Just makes my imagination run wild. Then suddenly my wife appears and smacks it back to reality. lol

 

[cmtbears21]

Wow...this is unbelievable...cylinder tanks have always been my favorite and I will be bookmarking this thread to see the progress.

Keep posting pictures!
-Matt

 

[dahenley]

i like how people like the build, but i always look back at when it started...
(officially posted in july 2008) (this baby has been in the planning stages for a long time.... no matter who wants to see this come together, you know he does...)

 

[Chris Witort]

I have a question about the flow provided by the recirculation pumps. I haven't read every post so forgive me if this has already been sorted out, but if those pumps draw from the inside of the overflow box I would question whether a toothed overflow could handle the amount of water you will be asking it to pass. You might want to test it before you finalize the design.

 

[Diablo]

I would question whether a toothed overflow could handle the amount of water you will be asking it to pass. You might want to test it before you finalize the design.

Thanks for raising this Chris. I have similar concerns. The purpose of this partition is threefold:
1) to force good surface exchange by ensuring that most circulating water has to go within an inch or two of the surface
2) to keep fish and anemones out of intakes
3) to hide equipment and the actual overflow behind

I can achieve the first with just a straight weir. RE: the second, I'm not sure how else to achieve it... any suggestions? I am not convinced that a comb design will cope with the flow. Maybe I should use egg crate instead?

 

[robvdv]

I am not convinced that a comb design will cope with the flow. Maybe I should use egg crate instead?

I have a somewhat similar design on one of my small tanks. I had to recut the teeth to cope with the flow. The teeth clog very quickly too. Annoying, because the pressure was so great on the tank side, I nearly lost an anemone to the small gaps on the side of the acrylic insert where the water rushed into the back chamber. Rather over-design for flow, IMO.

Is there any way you can get the pump and overflow assembly to slide up and out for easy removal and cleaning?

 

[Diablo]

along those lines, if I remember correctly, you were planning to run your QT on the same system as your DT and rely on a UV to prevent disease from entering your DT, I'd rethink this if I were you

I appreciate your efforts to try to straighten me out on this one, but we'll have to agree to disagree. This may be a high profile almighty stuff-up, but here is my rationale.

Ich is always present... outbreaks do not materialize out of the ether, but rather changes occur within systems to induce outbreak.

Pathogenic disease processes are a consequence of:
1) Pathogen load: healthy immune systems can cope with a small pathogen load, however in outbreak scenarios, immune systems are overwhelmed by the sheer number of pathogens. If one can ensure that newly introduced fish do not substantially change the pathogen load, then the introduction of that fish will not induce an outbreak in and of its self (if it is aggressive or if the tank is over-crowded, the introduction of the fish may elevate stress levels).
2) Immune response: When animals (including humans) are subjected to prolonged stress, immune systems weaken and allow them to become ill, in some cases at normal environmental pathogenic loads

So, the processes by which introducing a new fish in to a system causes global outbreak are as follows:
a) Fish is already sick (maybe asymptomatic). The disease process progresses, the fish exhibits symptoms and the fish becomes a source of overwhelming pathogenic load, spreading the disease to otherwise healthy population.
b) Fish is in a heightened state of stress by new environment (physical, social and chemical). Immune system depletes, fish becomes sick, etc.

If you follow the above, here is why I believe my approach is better:
i) by correctly sizing and using a UV, I can ensure that 999 out of 1000 pathogens originating in the "acclimatization" tank (AT) do not make it to the DT. This keeps the pathogenic load in the DT within normal environmental ranfges, preventing disease outbreak.
ii) By providing a low stress acclimatization tank, with good hiding places and the same good water as the display, I hope to prevent stress induced disease outbreak.

Despite best efforts, most quarantine tanks are suboptimal from an environmental perspective; in general, the water quality is poorer than display systems', the environment provides low sense of security and some people treat constantly with "preventative" medication. All of these things have great potential to induce stress and stress associated disease.

I will have a treatment tank should I need to medicate, but this will not be the mainstream path in my system

I have noticed a large number of threads of late where people have wiped out the entire contents of their quarantine tanks... "thank god I didn't put them straight in my display", not recognizing that the quarantine is part of the problem.

I will either be right or wrong. Let history judge.

 

[bullitr]

I use to have the same belief since I never had a bad outbreak until this year and it's very very deadly,i lose almost every fish I own, some of them are 6 years old or older. So to me separate system is needed since you already have one.
Herbtana really works to boast immunity but I will not take a chance with your set up.
it's very difficult to catch fish in that monster of a tank when outbreak start.I only have 435 g display and it's almost impossible to catch the wrasse without draining the tank..I think it's a good to put copper then prazi pro for a month then use herbtana for 10 days after to boast immunity.
Btw all the new fish I added last to my tank was on captivity for a while or on my LFS for atleast 3 months and still dies .

I know you are not looking for advice so I apologized if i offended by my unwanted comments.

I appreciate your efforts to try to straighten me out on this one, but we'll have to agree to disagree. This may be a high profile almighty stuff-up, but here is my rationale.

Ich is always present... outbreaks do not materialize out of the ether, but rather changes occur within systems to induce outbreak.

Pathogenic disease processes are a consequence of:
1) Pathogen load: healthy immune systems can cope with a small pathogen load, however in outbreak scenarios, immune systems are overwhelmed by the sheer number of pathogens. If one can ensure that newly introduced fish do not substantially change the pathogen load, then the introduction of that fish will not induce an outbreak in and of its self (if it is aggressive or if the tank is over-crowded, the introduction of the fish may elevate stress levels).
2) Immune response: When animals (including humans) are subjected to prolonged stress, immune systems weaken and allow them to become ill, in some cases at normal environmental pathogenic loads

So, the processes by which introducing a new fish in to a system causes global outbreak are as follows:
a) Fish is already sick (maybe asymptomatic). The disease process progresses, the fish exhibits symptoms and the fish becomes a source of overwhelming pathogenic load, spreading the disease to otherwise healthy population.
b) Fish is in a heightened state of stress by new environment (physical, social and chemical). Immune system depletes, fish becomes sick, etc.

If you follow the above, here is why I believe my approach is better:
i) by correctly sizing and using a UV, I can ensure that 999 out of 1000 pathogens originating in the "acclimatization" tank (AT) do not make it to the DT. This keeps the pathogenic load in the DT within normal environmental ranfges, preventing disease outbreak.
ii) By providing a low stress acclimatization tank, with good hiding places and the same good water as the display, I hope to prevent stress induced disease outbreak.

Despite best efforts, most quarantine tanks are suboptimal from an environmental perspective; in general, the water quality is poorer than display systems', the environment provides low sense of security and some people treat constantly with "preventative" medication. All of these things have great potential to induce stress and stress associated disease.

I will have a treatment tank should I need to medicate, but this will not be the mainstream path in my system

I have noticed a large number of threads of late where people have wiped out the entire contents of their quarantine tanks... "thank god I didn't put them straight in my display", not recognizing that the quarantine is part of the problem.

I will either be right or wrong. Let history judge.

 

[Diablo]

Lawrence, thank you for your insight. No offense taken. I would be a fool indeed if I discounted peoples experiences.

Can you tell me how you were set up when you had the outbreak?