240 Inwall Construction (Image Intense)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12794836#post12794836 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Three more months, then you'll need to get that newer larger tank. :p Might as well order it now so it will be on hand in time.
Click to expand...

That or start keeping a few Angelfish. ;)

Bax: Thank you very much.

chrismunn: I really have no clue as to how much water is being displaced by coral. A horrible thought but I suppose that if one were to grind up all the SPS coral in the tank, it would actually only take up a relatively small amount. Maybe 30-gallons or so? Again, I have no clue. ;)

Any difference in water quantity due to ever expanding corals has no bearing on evaporated water altering salinity. This, due to the constant replenishment of top-off water. But I have had to run my calcium reactor much harder to keep up with the growing calcium demands. Currently, I have my bubble count at roughly 120/minute. I also added some time ago the evaporative cooler to my sump. This aides in temperature control but perhaps more importantly, allows me to add more Kalkwasser to the tank via the top-off water. I do definitely have to replenish the calcium hydroxide more now that this cooler, along with a high air turnover within the room, has been added. All this being a good thing for a highly demanding, SPS dominant tank. In addition, I have to add more liquid magnesium now than I did before.

Joseph.
 
So tell us, does it really look as full to you as it does to us in the picture? Realizing that images tend to be two dimensional, where in person you can see those pockets and voids, how does it really look? Care to shoot a new video for us?
 
I lose 14g/day right now an I still can't keep up with alkalinity demand...I think I need to find a better kalk powder.
 
Matt: I use ESV Magnesium as well as their calcium hydroxide and have for many, many years.

Marc: It does look as full in person but there is actually more space between the glass and the structures than the photo depicts. As mentioned, the camera flattens this out and especially so since these FTS's are taken from 14' away with my 100mm lens. So all the caves and coral colony undulations don't get represented well in these photos. But still, it's definitely very tight in there. ;)

As far as a new video goes, not having kids means we also don't have a video camera. I'll have to see if I can borrow one but this may not be anytime soon. I wish I knew someone with one of the new HD cameras. That would be nice but I'm sure the file size would then be crazy though. I'll see what I can do.

Joseph.
 
Beings it was tank support glass cleaning day... I took a few photos from the top. First, here's a shot of the left side (from behind) showing the ORA blue millipora in all its glory. At this time, it's 16" across, front-to-back. Apparently, it likes being under the 400-watt MH. ;)

885_left-top.jpg


And a shot of the right side and the surface exposed caps...

886_top-right.jpg


Just to prove that there's still some swimming room remaining, here's a shot of some curious fat-boys...

887_swimming.jpg


A branch end of the Green Slimer after having turned the main pump off...

888_exposed.jpg


And a macro shot of a Scarlet also exposed as the water level dropped...

889_scarlet.jpg


Apparently, not being submersed and buoyant makes for some heavy eyes. Not to worry... it's claw to the rescue! ;)

890_scarlet-eyes.jpg


Joseph
 
STUNNING! Great shots and love the comments.

So how on earth do you clean that top brace? It looks like the coral is super close to the glass? How much clearance is left?

I still love your tank the most. Anyone else that says they love it, love it less than I do.
fly_raspberry.gif
 
Thanks Weatherson for the top down shots. How did you train that hermit to clean the underside of your glass cross braces? They are spotless.

All kidding aside, how do you clean the underside of the cross brace? It looks like there is only a couple of inches of clearance between the glass brace and the top of the corals.
 
The space between the corals and the underside of the glass is basically where the water level is. Just about an inch.

I robbed the handle/rod from a Kent scraper which is very strong. Then I used a Japanese saw, which has a very thin kerf, to cut an angled cut in the end. This is just thin enough to make for a strong compression fit on the back side of a straight razor. Then, with some body contortion and great care not to bang corals making inadvertent frags, I simply scrape the underside with the razor. I have several different lengths and with different angled blades for different areas. The tallest coral is the Green Slimer and the blade just fits between it and the glass.

854_razor.jpg


Joseph.
 
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