250 gallon build thread

I think they are good quality. Why UV? I guess if it is cheap enough but I am not sure what it would do that the ro/di wouldnt do.
 
Well after talking to a few friends I will be saving up for awhile to get tunzes or vortechs. I guess I could always just run Seios temporarily.

As far as heating, I am getting conflicting opinions. The two opinions I have gotten so far have been. Two 500w titaniums with a controller (expensive route). and two 300w, at first and add one more if it isnt sufficiant. Not sure what I will do, probably the cheaper route.
 
Two 300w heaters might work fine and you can always add one down the road if you need it. I think using a controller of some sort is necessary in case a heater sticks in the "on" position which could cook your tank. I have seen and heard of that happening in the past quite frequently. For some reason, self-contained heater controllers are usually cheap.
 
Was messing around in the basement today and making measurements to see what the exact size the fish room was going to be. I was also making decitions on exactly where to put everything.

The next to 2 pics show exactly where the tank will be placed. There will be two viewing panes, the one on the end, (right side) in the hallway and the front in the living area. The stand will be high enough for the display to be seen over my sectional couch. I plan on building a platform inside the fish room to make it so I do not need a step stool to get in the tank.

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The next shows where the 46 gallon corner tank will be placed. This tank is currently at my moms setup and running. It will be torn down and used strictly as a QT. I have never had a QT before, so I am proud to say, I am finally doing it the right way this time. Plus the tank is reef ready so I will use a tote as a "make-shift" sump and use my Aqua C ev150 as filtration on it.

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This picture shows the space between the display and the sink. I plan on placing the 75 I just purchased in between the two on the floor. I will be modifing it by adding baffles and making it into a sump. I think I am going to buy another 75 or 55 RR to place over top of the sump and plumb it into the sump and use it as a fuge/coral grow out tank.

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Here is the 2x6s I plan to use for the stand. All I need it 3- 8ft pressure treated ones for the concrete floor and I can start on my stand.

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The other space in the room will be used for water storage containers and a small workbench for fragging.

More updates to come later, should be starting the stand and plumbing for the sump soon. Stay tuned!
 
Save for the Tunzes, in the long run the power they draw is more of an incentive to me than anything....not counting their reputation for long life, great customer service, and the ability to kick up a sandstorm if given the chance. They will "reach" across that 8ft better than most.

Why using the light like that over the sump? Seems like much unneeded power consumption, maybe a grow out tank but not a sump. You don't need bulbs like that over a fuge, you could use them to supplement the main tank or sell them and use the cash for needed stuff. How about a full basement shot so we can see whats cooking down there.


Will you be framing all the walls up before setting up the tank?

Also in that last pic ditch the Bud, Miller Lite is better for you.
 
still debating on the pumps. Just remember, you can buy 4 seios at 2600 gallons each, for the price of one tunze or vortech. but if I figure out a way to have good ones, I will. Just maybe not at first. The seios will not hurt if used temporarily.

The light over the sump was decided before I knew I was going to do a sump and a fuge. Light will go over the fuge.

The basement is just a plain basement. This is the first step of refinishing.

I collect beer memrobilia (sp?), I drink Coors Light. Miller Lite is NASTY! LOL
 
tanks will moved within the walls, then the walls will be framed, stand built, then tanks put in place. then outside of room finished out
 
sweet tank,have you thought about maxi-jet mods?maybe 4or so to get you by.if you need any help let me know im only of on sunday but if your cooking steaks i can be there monday haha..
 
are you just using the pressure treated as a base for the rest of the stand to sit upon?

i like how you mounted the RO unit by the sink. i wanted to do something like that, but since my resevoir is up high I thought the backpressure of the small tubing might reduce the output. so I mounted my RO unit up high next to the reservoir. Is this not necessary?
it seems to me that when I raise/lower the outlet of my RO, the production rate changes accordingly.
 
I have not used the ro/di to make water in mass yet, so we will see.

The pressure treated wood is just for the base of the stand where it will be in contact with the aquarium.
 
IMO I would use pressure treated on any of your walls/stand where the wood comes in contact with the cement floors. I also used pressure treated marine grade 3\4'' plywood for the top of my stand. An acrylic tank needs supported on the entire bottom of the tank, not just the edges like a glass tank.
 
I will only use the pressure treated on the bottom because if the wood warps, it will mean trouble. That stuff was really green that I got at Lowes. I will use it on the bottoms of the walls too.

Thanks for the advice on the plywood. I had not planned on using it. Glad you mentioned that!!
 
You could save some money on flow by doing a CLS and/or surges. Reefkeeperscorner has a 600 gal that uses surges exclusively, I'll try to look for his thread somewhere. It takes a lot of space above the tank to do surges, but they can create a lot of flow.
 
Skimmer on the way! I got a great deal. I paid 395 shipped on ebay for an Aqua C EV2000! That is right a 2000. It also comes with a Mag 36. I am pumped about that deal! Will post pics soon.
 
Here is the picture of the skimmer. This is the pic that was on the auction. Obviously I do not have it hooked up yet. I will post more pics when I get it. Looks like a monster.

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