250 gallon build thread
- Thread starter michealprater
- Start date
Thanks Kribbz. Let me know when I can pick up the 75.
Everyone, Kribbz cut me a heck of a deal on his 75. I am going to install baffles and make it my sump. Still looking for a 75 rr for cheap to use as a fuge.
The fuge will be installed over top of the 75 sump.
I also wanted to share some questions and answers Kraash and I discussed on messenger last night.
He asked me about moisture and temperature control of the fish room and basement.
Moisture control will be simple. In my old house moisture was a problem in the basement, so we had a nice dehumidifier. In the new house this is no longer a problem, so wa-la! I will use it in the fish room.
As far as room temperature i plan on installing a fairly large vent on the end of the tank that faces the hallway. I will mount a box fan there, then I plan on mounting another box fan on the other end of the lights blowing towards the box fan by the vent. This should be plenty of ventilation to keep the lights cool and remove a large amount of heat from the room. Plus this will help in heating the basement which is pretty cold year round. For the summers I plan on tapping off the duct work to put a vent in the room for AC.
Any comments?
Everyone, Kribbz cut me a heck of a deal on his 75. I am going to install baffles and make it my sump. Still looking for a 75 rr for cheap to use as a fuge.
The fuge will be installed over top of the 75 sump.
I also wanted to share some questions and answers Kraash and I discussed on messenger last night.
He asked me about moisture and temperature control of the fish room and basement.
Moisture control will be simple. In my old house moisture was a problem in the basement, so we had a nice dehumidifier. In the new house this is no longer a problem, so wa-la! I will use it in the fish room.
As far as room temperature i plan on installing a fairly large vent on the end of the tank that faces the hallway. I will mount a box fan there, then I plan on mounting another box fan on the other end of the lights blowing towards the box fan by the vent. This should be plenty of ventilation to keep the lights cool and remove a large amount of heat from the room. Plus this will help in heating the basement which is pretty cold year round. For the summers I plan on tapping off the duct work to put a vent in the room for AC.
Any comments?
I purchased a cordless circular saw on clearance from Lowes and it did not have a blade. Then the blade I got at Wally world did not fit. I need a 6 1/2" blade, if Ace doesnt have one, I may have to take another trip 1/2 hour away to the nearest Lowes to get one. Probably will not get started on the stand. Still need a sheet of 3/4 plywood anyhow.
Stand is up and going, will try to post some pics tonight.
Here is the start of the stand, miles from being done, it will be a built like a German tank when I am done. It will be kind of high because it will need to be seen over top of my sectional.
Some one asked for pictures of the rest of the basement, nothing really that great to look a except cludder.
Here is one view, note the gym equipment, because if you meet me you will know where I got these jacks! LOL. off to the left is the sectional I refered to earlier.
DJ equipment I am trying to sell to support this build.
Here is my wife's make-shift salon. We had it set up down there before she opened her own salon in Highland.
Some one asked for pictures of the rest of the basement, nothing really that great to look a except cludder.
Here is one view, note the gym equipment, because if you meet me you will know where I got these jacks! LOL. off to the left is the sectional I refered to earlier.
DJ equipment I am trying to sell to support this build.
Here is my wife's make-shift salon. We had it set up down there before she opened her own salon in Highland.
Ok, I got my stand finished up today. Things are moving quicker than I expected. Amazing what happens when you put your mind to something, and have all Saturday to devote to a project.
Here is a couple after the frame was finally done.
I ran to the hardware store right before they closed to get a piece of 3/4" pressure treated plywood to put on the top. I had them rip it down for me. Once I got it on, I thought about scrapping the whole project and just using it as a bar, LOL!
At the hardware store I also got a sheet of polystyrene, which is normally used to insulate the outside of houses, and cut it down to use it as the foam under the tank. Here is the finished product in place.
Now all I need next is to pick up the 75 gal and put it in place for the sump, still looking for a 75rr to mount over it for a fuge, then I will go ahead and frame the room. Then the next step will be to install the 46 corner rr for a quaranitine.
Stay tuned!
Here is a couple after the frame was finally done.
I ran to the hardware store right before they closed to get a piece of 3/4" pressure treated plywood to put on the top. I had them rip it down for me. Once I got it on, I thought about scrapping the whole project and just using it as a bar, LOL!
At the hardware store I also got a sheet of polystyrene, which is normally used to insulate the outside of houses, and cut it down to use it as the foam under the tank. Here is the finished product in place.
Now all I need next is to pick up the 75 gal and put it in place for the sump, still looking for a 75rr to mount over it for a fuge, then I will go ahead and frame the room. Then the next step will be to install the 46 corner rr for a quaranitine.
Stay tuned!
chadscamaro
New member
I would suggest to cripple in some 2x4 or 2x6 on your uprights outside between the top and bottom perimiters. I takes the pressure off the screws and should make it alot stronger. Thats how we built all my stands in my store and its always better to be safe since wood is fairly cheap and you will have 3000lbs on top of the stand.
I am not sure I understand. i do not know what cripple means?
chadscamaro
New member
Put a piece of wood against your upright posts between the top and bottom frames. It should be a tight tap in fit to releive pressure of the screws holing the frame up and will make it a lot stronger imo. Does that make sense ?? Basically it will make your upright posts double the size and the outside pieces that get crippled in there will take alot of the weight load especially off the screws.
adammreef
New member
this is what he means by cripplers just 2x4 or 2x6 studs to support the weight instead of the weight of the tank being on the frame that is only screwed hope this helps.
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5576/standdr5.png" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>
<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5576/standdr5.png" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/></a><br/>
chadscamaro
New member
Exactly ! Thanks for the help.
Oh, that makes great sense. I will do that. Thanks.
First set back....
I was working on putting the cripplers in, and my uncle came over to lift. I figured I would include lifting the aquarium onto the stand into our workout, LOL. Anyhow we got it on there and as I was putting in the center cripplers in I noticed a gap between the tank and the center of the stand. 3/16" on the front and 1/8 in the back. It is going to be tough to find 2x6s with less camber. I am thinking of pulling the tank off and shimming the center of the plywood up. What do you all think?
I was working on putting the cripplers in, and my uncle came over to lift. I figured I would include lifting the aquarium onto the stand into our workout, LOL. Anyhow we got it on there and as I was putting in the center cripplers in I noticed a gap between the tank and the center of the stand. 3/16" on the front and 1/8 in the back. It is going to be tough to find 2x6s with less camber. I am thinking of pulling the tank off and shimming the center of the plywood up. What do you all think?
ncox38
New member
I had the same issue, thats why I went to MDF. I put about 4 coats of paint on it before I screwed it down to seal it. Because its more rigid than plywood it was easier to shim and get level. Not that scabbing on those cripple studs is a bad thing, but a galvanized wood screw has at least a 250# shear weight. so 12 screws could have held that stand together, with no problems. Just for future reference.
I kind of thought that also, but they will not hurt.
So you do not think I can make it work with the 3/4" plywood? It was kind of expensive, hate to just scrap it.
So you do not think I can make it work with the 3/4" plywood? It was kind of expensive, hate to just scrap it.
fareforce
Premium Member
Here is my tank build thread. I did a custom stand (still in the works) that will hold about 15,000 lbs, and uses 23/32" plywood. Tons of pics to help you through the process too. Let me know if you have any questions.
Personally I dont like "gorilla" built stands like the one you are doing because they give the wood on the stand to much oportunity to wrap under damp conditions. Just my opinion though.
Personally I dont like "gorilla" built stands like the one you are doing because they give the wood on the stand to much oportunity to wrap under damp conditions. Just my opinion though.
OK.............
It is in-wall build, why would I make a finished stand???
Do you have any advice for the problem I am having for the stand I built, or did you just want to link your build?
It is in-wall build, why would I make a finished stand???
Do you have any advice for the problem I am having for the stand I built, or did you just want to link your build?
fareforce
Premium Member
Sorry I skimmed over the thread while I was at work. I missed that is was an in-wall.
What I would do if you want to continue with the stand you built is put a 3/4" ply top on it. Screw it down nice and tight. Get the stand put in its final resting spot. Cover the top with visqueen (probably spelled it wrong). Build temporary sides to hold the visqueen tight, and give you about a 1" lip over the top of the 3/4" plywood. Then drop a 1/4" - 1/2" layer of self-leveling concrete on the top. Let it dry, remove the temporary sides, put your foam down and presto. perfectly level!
I already have the 3/4" on the top of it. That is not a bad idea.
