29 gallon lighting options

Yeah I know, but since it's using the factory supplied legs that should be taken into account already. As I said it probably won't be noticeable once the rock is no longer white.
 
Reefbreeders photon series. A couple posts above this I just put an 8 month tank shot up and these lights have brought my corals to life . sps and lps
 
Yeah I know, but since it's using the factory supplied legs that should be taken into account already. As I said it probably won't be noticeable once the rock is no longer white.

Even with no optics with the light mounted only a couple inches from the water you will still get a little of the color separation when the water surface is agitated. No way around it other than to mount the fixtures higher or use an LED matrix like Kessil uses. The majority of tanks I think don't have the water level quite as high as yours or are suspending the lights from ceiling or inside a canopy.

Minor issue in my mind, as the "bands" of color from them are very well diffused and not sharp like many LED systems including the radions would create. So, as you said once the tank gets growing I don't think you'll notice it anymore.
 
Even with no optics with the light mounted only a couple inches from the water you will still get a little of the color separation when the water surface is agitated. No way around it other than to mount the fixtures higher or use an LED matrix like Kessil uses.

I'm not sure I agree with you on that point. I use finnex led strip lights on my freshwater tanks and there isn't any separation from the red leds on those. Of course they use more smaller output leds, but also they don't put any optics on so they have a 120 degree spread.
 
Best way is to use led fixtures that use decent whites that don't require red and green led supplementation. But as Zachts stated raising it up is probably the best option. Or open the unit and pop off the optics if you can.
 
Best way is to use led fixtures that use decent whites that don't require red and green led supplementation. But as Zachts stated raising it up is probably the best option. Or open the unit and pop off the optics if you can.

So if I had substituted NW and/or WW for the CW I could drop the Red and Green and used maybe violet instead I would end up with a similar CRI but with less risk of separation?
 
Absolutely, NW makes a huge difference, warm white even more so. I just built a fixture for my 180 that uses high CRI warm and Neutral whites plus some high binning Cree cool whites that are still below 7000k. Violets are a must imo they really add a lot of useful PUR.
 
Back
Top