290 Gallon SPS only Frag tank build.

moatdaddy

New member
Hello ladies and gents, and even smelly reefers. My name is Brandon and i have been keeping saltwater aquariums since 1995. I have learned a lot, forgotten some things, and grown as the hobby has. I wish the videos BRS has on youtube today would have given me a guiding hand when i was thirteen years old. The hobby has always fascinated me, haunting my dream when i do not have a tank up. Literally when i was in Iraq or afghanistan i would get lost in huge fish stores. Of course that was why i got lost, I love corals and saltwater fish. I have gotten the opportunity to visit many place and aquariums around the world and have finally bought a house to call home.

I was awarded the garage. My man cave of freedom. Of course for now its a SPS room. Wife got spare bedroom and dining room, no offense to old people but they are only ones who dine in a separate room now imo.

So i have this nice garage space, in sunny Panama City Beach Florida. I am recovering from another surgery from a helicopter accident and i hope this one will make it so i can have mobility to take care of my new project. Enough about me, lets get into the build.

290 Gallon System.

50 gallon rubbermaid frag tank.
300 gallon rubbermaid sump. "For real this thing is silly big," she said.

I know your doing the math and saying thats 350g. well i am going to ensure if somehow the frag tank drains into the sump it can handle the water. the extra 10 gallons is just so the water line is not at spill over point. In the end the system may even be less than 290 and i am okay with that.

Why did i choose rubbermaid tanks?

First i dont care what they look like from the side, and second is cost. Lastly they have a proven record of keeping corals just fine.

Salt. I have some extra salt from a 210 gallon build i tore down a year ago, reef crystal. I will use that for now. I ordered Hw marinemix reefer from BRS. From here on that is the only salt i will use.

Testing Kits. I went with 3 hanna checkers, after watching the brs video i was sold on them and reviews are decent. Salifert for rest. Salinity is with Milwakee digital with a hydrometer for backup.

Lights. I have 3 black boxes on shelves in garage, they are staying there. This is where i am proud to spend the extra bucks. 8x54w sunpower ATI. Bought from ebay and gave a best offer that came in lower than anywhere else.

Bulbs. 6 B+, 1 C+, 1P+

Why did i got with ATI. T5. Simple answer. Reefcentral and BRS videos on lighting. Sooo many gorgeous tanks use T5, and the non directional nature of them crushed LED for me. I dont care if I can simulate a storm, ramp up or down or start a disco party. I want solid growth and color. ATI does that and does it well.

Pumps. I went chinese here, i just hear good things and the cost factor is nice. Doing DC 3000 Jeabo for return. wp-60 for sump movement, and wp-40 for frag tank.

I may change this around and adjust as needed, by no means set in stone.

Live Rock/Filtration.

I want to do something different here than i have ever done before. Normally i go to my supplier in the keys, order a ton of live rock and put it in the tank. let it die off, change a bunch of water and then let it stabilize.

This time is Matrix. The plan is to have Matrix hanging in the sump and main tank in mesh bags. I am thinking 8 in sump 2 in frag tank. every week i will take 2 from sump and 1 from main tank and rinse in saltwater bucket. Thereby removing any built up dietrus. I will be more aggressive with the minimal dry rock i add.

I found last few builds rocks were bacterial havens, until they were deitrus hotels. So i want to be more aggressive about any buildup anywhere.

NO SAND

Not interested, this is not about looks. Also i want to see where fish poo and such builds up so i can siphon it out.

Carbon

I have used the hang on back carbon pumps and filters in the past with success, thing is i probably wont here. I am going to check water color during changes and if it is yellowing will address from there.

Algae Turf Scrubber

My best friend and my most pain. Lesson learned in the past was not to use those stupid clip on CF Reflector things. Holy cow, i would go to clean out my ats, bumb that clip it would drop into the water and :blown:. I would get the jolt of love. Crap i hated those things. The results were undeniable though. This build will be about simple implementation and maintenance. Since sump is the size of a kid pool i will trash and rebuild if it bothers me. I have time on this one.

RODI

6 stage unit, i am undecided on if i will set up a large scale mixing station, i probably will with 55g trash cans. Normally i would just do a bucket at a time but i want to have ability to change a lot of water rapidly if i need to.

Electrical.

GFCI outlets are being installed on its own 20 amp breaker. I may do two depending on cost electrician charges me. Breaker box is right in the garage so it will be fairly easy to add one or two more breaker. Oh and lesson is i will add drip bends to every outlet i use. A will probably build a wall beside the tanks to run powerbars to and attack wiring vertical style.

Humidity

I plan on addressing this issue just have not done my homework on how to solve the problem. I may even insulate the garage door. Not sure.

Fish.

Three years ago i would have said no fish in an sps system to keep nutrients down. Now i know better. I will add a wrasse and tank in frag tank. In the 300g not sure.

Feeding

I would like to do cyclopleeze but not sure if they still sell it. I will be looking into this and appreciate any input.

Dosing.

Manual 2 part BRS.

No ATO

No zeovit. too intensive and i want the neighbor to know how to handle the system when i go to topless beaches. :lolspin:

I will add photos of the beginning of this system and update here and probably do my first youtubing. If that BRS dude can do it and make it look easy I think i can.


TLDR... Dont blame you, problem is these build involve a lot of planning, a lot of equipment, and a lot of patience.

I was critiqued for 11 years while in the army either being a combat engineer or apachee pilot, you can speak freely with how you feel about my build and i wont get teary eyed.

Please give your input and recommendations. Pictures next.
 
Hey Brandon, even though I'm Canadian, I'll say thank you for your service. I am grateful to all the Canadian and American men and women who do what they are told and take care of us while we sleep...
Now.... Hurry the heck up with the fish stuff!! :)
Good start!
Subscribed.

Why no display? Sounds like you got space.. You don't think you might want to see a few of those corals grow into big beauties?
 





So no AutoCAD or fancy software. Probably could have used a ruler but hey it works for me and lays out the design. All subject to change.
 
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Sounds awesome Brandon!! Can't wait to see it develop.

Why no ATO? Have you had problems in the past? In the '90s I built a simple ATO that served me well for many years. I had large break from reefing until 3 years ago, but kept the DYI ATO and it is still working and an integral part of my stability. I don't recommend DYI these days as truly great ATO systems are readily available. Just something to consider, besides it might be able to keep you on the beach longer!!
 
ATO is on the no at the moment list for a simple reason. I will have lots of fresh water readily available and taking a half bucket every morning seems simple enough. I'm not anti ato by any means. Just in a system this large it seems easy enough to dump in fresh water daily. In the end I want things to be run by a neighbor or friend. Say hey this is the water line. If it goes low add water. Instead of this may, although unlikely, fail. If that happens please sweep extra water out of garage and raise salinity. I want a hands on but low complexity system.
 
After some thought and consideration I very well may add an ato due to large amounts of potential evaporation. An ato should keep salinity more stable.
 
While evap won't be as fast of a problem for you I would not hesitate to put an ato on the setup. As with everything saltwater stability is important.

Interested to see your protect grow.

- your not so little brother, from the opposite side of the country.
 




Ammonia, nitrite test kits mia. Will try to hang my ati sunpower off that bike rack. Will see. Also rinsed that gallon of matrix and was unimpressed. Will buy some brs ball ones too I guess. Its all going in those bags for easy maintenance and ability to rotate rinsing them.
 
okay system is progressing nicely, using seed from seachem and will see how it goes, been testing ammonia every day and so far no spike. will be interesting to see if there will be one with these new bacteria induction additives.

Lights are A+, love them so far no complaints. ATS is running smoothly, will decide later on efficiency.

Next step is an split AC unit for garage only. I found out that using ductwork to vent your garage is not allowed unless the garage is sealed. Common sense here is that a running car in your garage can put monoxide into your home. Granted cars cant get into my garage but hey, i hope it adds some value to the home.

Other than controlling moisture and temperature in the garage all is going well. i dumped a few gallons on the floor and simply grinned. I love having this in the garage.

oh and waiting on my dc pump, right now i have my water change pump running my sump to frag tank. so water flow will drastically increase once it comes into play.
 
side note, anyone know a good, safe way to extend their wiring, i really want to clean mine up but most of the cords are just too short. extending them involves twist caps from my experience and i dont want that kind of exposure for moisture to collect into
 
If you're not comfortable with soldering and splicing on a new cord ( and any of us that build these systems should be able to google it and safely do it) just buy a black extension cord from Home Depot in any length - 3 ft, 4,5,10,15. ... And electrical tape them together to keep them tight and moisture out
 
it works, tested and approved. water gets low, the sensor notices there is not water on it, it turns on the pump.

so overflows, did not consider making overflow baffles to protect fish going for a while ride in pvc. my nemo and red coris were above the ATS, lucky its a simple disconnect and they went into the sump. well the 300g Rubbermaid, not sure if i will keep calling it a sump, since it houses more fish and live rock than the frag tank.
 
I did the same thing but with a 100 gallon Rubbermaid for the sump. I built a table over it to hold the frag tank which was nice because I could test and frag right there. The hard part was getting flow in the tank. I was doing high flow and used 2 mp40s 2 wp40s and a 15. It was like a jacuzzi. I used a large beckett sat on a stand as my return as well. I was keeping mostly reef crest corals. The shape of the 50 gallon made it hard to fit a lot of corals but should work well for a frag tank. Good luck, looks fun.
 
piper a picture please, so far i love my man space. i mean i can spill water, who cares. i have easy access to clean water, easy to reach frag tank and wide walk around of the 300gallon rubbermaid. not to mention i thought i would hate top down view of fish and corals, not true at all. fish still see me and hide just fine and i still stand back and watch them. i have had aquariums in living spaces and i dont think i will again until they make a better all in one down the line.
 


here is the new AC unit, it is 115v with inverter. cost 750 from ebay and then 450 to install. it will keep garage at a more stable temperature and help with dehumidifying the air. The system is undergoing its diatom bloom, and the scrubber is helping already, soon it will go from brown to green. Things are progressing smoothly, just need to get control of nitrate and phosphates. I have not decided on a scrubber yet, mostly due to funds. After the AC unit i blew a lot more money than i wanted to. In a month or so i will have some coral and fish photos to go with all this equipment shots.
 


This is my new grow out for chaeto. Low flow slow pump adds water that gravity drains into the big sump.




The pump is now located high in the waterline, i did this so if my drains become plugged it will only pump so much over the frag tank walls. I also changed the height of return. I forgot to turn off my rodi and went to bed. Woke up with my rodi auto top off overflowing. It of course went onto some controllers which caused a circuit flip. My frag tank was nearly out of water for five hours.
 
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