300 Gallon Miracles Aquarium
- Thread starter maik1
- Start date
Vlamimgii Surgeon
Vlamimgii Surgeon
My Vlamimgii Surgeon jumped into the overflow box today! :bigeyes:
I found him after looking all over the inside and outside of the tank today after I fed the fish and he was nowhere to be seen.
I knew is was missing in action because he has NEVER missed a meal before!
I am glad he jumped in the overflow box direction and not any other.
He is now back in the tank and I finally covered up the top of the tank with the mesh that I had for weeks but never got arround to install before.
Maik1
Vlamimgii Surgeon
My Vlamimgii Surgeon jumped into the overflow box today! :bigeyes:
I found him after looking all over the inside and outside of the tank today after I fed the fish and he was nowhere to be seen.
I knew is was missing in action because he has NEVER missed a meal before!
I am glad he jumped in the overflow box direction and not any other.
He is now back in the tank and I finally covered up the top of the tank with the mesh that I had for weeks but never got arround to install before.
Maik1
BigRedMack
New member
tank looks great!
laredo300c
New member
My hippo is the only fish in my tank to get ich, every now and then, I have never added any chemicals , if fish keeps eating , he should be okay, if he stops maybe slowly raise the temp as I've heared ich doesn't survive in higher temp,never tried it, my hippo always recovers from ich
syedjilani
Active member
Use garlic. soak feed in raw garlic paste or use garlic power from kent marin... feed this your fish ll heal up....
I would recommend taking ALL the fish out and putting them all in a (or multiple) quarantine tanks. Treat them with copper and let the display tank sit for a month so all the ich will complete it's cycle and die off. The quarantine tanks would be useful to keep anyways so you could quarantine any fish that goes into your tank.
geaux xman
New member
that stinks man. i was getting all excited looking at the fish pictures then i read the post about the ich.
it'll be rough trying to catch and QT all the fish. which one of the tangs have it? at this point and with the amount of fish you have, i would probably just continue trying to feed it well and stick it out.
it'll be rough trying to catch and QT all the fish. which one of the tangs have it? at this point and with the amount of fish you have, i would probably just continue trying to feed it well and stick it out.
Thank you for your comments and tips, the Hippo and the Goldrim have it the most. I am using Garlic now and dropping the Salinity.
I am running the tank at 79 F now too that is up from 78F (should I go higher?). All the fish seem to eat well.
I have no choice but to stick it out because I do not have a QT set up or big enough for all of my fish IF I could catch them.
I am setting up my old UV system too, it may help.
(I just want you to know that any comments or suggestions are appreciated.)
Maik1
I am running the tank at 79 F now too that is up from 78F (should I go higher?). All the fish seem to eat well.
I have no choice but to stick it out because I do not have a QT set up or big enough for all of my fish IF I could catch them.
I am setting up my old UV system too, it may help.
(I just want you to know that any comments or suggestions are appreciated.)
Maik1
d3hree
New member
Thats a shame Maik,
As regards temperature I have heard/read that lowering it is better. Apparently the parasites prefer the warmer temps to the lower. I have no personal experience of this though.
Hyposalinity treatments are less harsh to the fish, lowering it to 1.009 over a week or so would be better than copper treatments, obviously you would still need to get the fish out.
UV will help kill the free swimming stage of the parasite. After it has hosted the fish for a few days it will become free swimming for a few hours. Then they will reproduce and turn into further free swimming stages searching for more fish to infect.
HTH, best of luck with it!
As regards temperature I have heard/read that lowering it is better. Apparently the parasites prefer the warmer temps to the lower. I have no personal experience of this though.
Hyposalinity treatments are less harsh to the fish, lowering it to 1.009 over a week or so would be better than copper treatments, obviously you would still need to get the fish out.
UV will help kill the free swimming stage of the parasite. After it has hosted the fish for a few days it will become free swimming for a few hours. Then they will reproduce and turn into further free swimming stages searching for more fish to infect.
HTH, best of luck with it!
realtime3d
New member
I don't think you're supposed to do hypo salinity treatments with inverts in the tank. Inverts can't tolerate lower salinity which is why it works against Ich.
I wanted to lower the Salinity to 1.022 from 1.026 over the next 5-6 days, that should not kill the rest of the tank and may help the fish?
The Garlic seems to help, the fish have less spots today.
"Thanks" to the ICH I got my 25 watt UV and 1/2 hp Chiller installed.
The temperature is now at 76F.
Maik1
The Garlic seems to help, the fish have less spots today.
"Thanks" to the ICH I got my 25 watt UV and 1/2 hp Chiller installed.
The temperature is now at 76F.
Maik1
realtime3d
New member
It won't help get rid of ich unless you drop it to a level intolerable to inverts. It might make the fish more comfortable. I've treated it successfully by lowering to 1.011 over 48hrs but only for fish.
d3hree
New member
One of the issues with the majority of residential UV systems is that they are under powered. I would suggest that your 25w UV is waay underpowered for your tank.
What are the flow recommendations for that unit?..quite low I suspect? If you have the water rushing through it from your return pump I doubt that it will have the contact time in the UV to make any difference.
The salinity will need to be lower than 1.022 to have an impact on the ich too....sorry.
What are the flow recommendations for that unit?..quite low I suspect? If you have the water rushing through it from your return pump I doubt that it will have the contact time in the UV to make any difference.
The salinity will need to be lower than 1.022 to have an impact on the ich too....sorry.
Yes I know the UV is only 25 watts with a 750-1000 gph rating but my Chiller wants the same flow as the UV with a 3/4" in and out.
That's why I have it on the left return side of the tank and the right side of the tank has the 1 1/2" return from the sump.
The Dart pump has 3200 gph total so 1000 on the left and 2200 on the right side of the tank.
If I had a larger UV or more time I would get a larger one but this is better than nothing right now I think.
If I shouldn't bother with changing the Salinity down to 1.022 than I won't, just tell me.
Thanks for everyone's help! I appreciate it.
Maik1
That's why I have it on the left return side of the tank and the right side of the tank has the 1 1/2" return from the sump.
The Dart pump has 3200 gph total so 1000 on the left and 2200 on the right side of the tank.
If I had a larger UV or more time I would get a larger one but this is better than nothing right now I think.
If I shouldn't bother with changing the Salinity down to 1.022 than I won't, just tell me.
Thanks for everyone's help! I appreciate it.
Maik1
tchndie
New member
I;ve had ick a couple times in my DT and I don'Do you have a cleaner wrasse?? If not I would recomend getting one! It has helped big time in my opinion. As long as they are eating well and they are not continuously being stressed out then they should recover! Also feed them lots of nori as it boosts there immune system. As how many cleaner shrimp do you have? I have 8 cleaner shrimp and a cleaner wrasse and it helps keep ick out of the picture!! UV sterilizer is nice but also kills all the good bacteria as well!
rnscross
New member
cleaner wrasse and shrimp do not remove ich. Only the treatments below work. Of them the 3 most common are Hypo, Copper and Transfer(much less used than the other 2). Everything else is just remove the visible symptoms, not actually removing ich. Any stress will induce an outbreak.
This is a good read. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
"Know effective treatments are listed below. It is recommended that unless there is some exceptional circumstances requiring some other treatment, one of the following should be used to treat fish that have an Cryptocaryon infection.
Hyposalinity - reduce salinity to 12-14 ppt (equivalent to an specific gravity of 1.009) for at least 4 weeks.
Chloroquine diphosphate or Quinine hydrochloride - non-toxic to most fish and bacteria, but highly toxic to algae and some invertebrates (anemones, corals etc.). Dosage rate is 10 milligrams per litre[1], every 5 days for at least 4 treatments. Works best in conjunction with hyposalinity (under 14ppt) [1].
Three Day Transfer Method - requires two suitable tanks between which fish are transferred, then tank cleaned, every three days for a total of 12 days.
Hydrogen Peroxide - bactericide and caution should be exercised, with treatment in a quarantine tank, as correct dosages for individual species is still in the development stages.
Copper - copper is toxic to fish as well as invertebrates, and level and duration of addition must be strictly controlled.
Formalin Bath - volatile, irritating and an suspected carcinogen. Has moderate antibacterial properties, is irritating to fish gills so water has to be well aerated (some fish are sensitive to treatment) and has algacide properties." (MASA reefpedia)
Hope this helps.
This is a good read. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
"Know effective treatments are listed below. It is recommended that unless there is some exceptional circumstances requiring some other treatment, one of the following should be used to treat fish that have an Cryptocaryon infection.
Hyposalinity - reduce salinity to 12-14 ppt (equivalent to an specific gravity of 1.009) for at least 4 weeks.
Chloroquine diphosphate or Quinine hydrochloride - non-toxic to most fish and bacteria, but highly toxic to algae and some invertebrates (anemones, corals etc.). Dosage rate is 10 milligrams per litre[1], every 5 days for at least 4 treatments. Works best in conjunction with hyposalinity (under 14ppt) [1].
Three Day Transfer Method - requires two suitable tanks between which fish are transferred, then tank cleaned, every three days for a total of 12 days.
Hydrogen Peroxide - bactericide and caution should be exercised, with treatment in a quarantine tank, as correct dosages for individual species is still in the development stages.
Copper - copper is toxic to fish as well as invertebrates, and level and duration of addition must be strictly controlled.
Formalin Bath - volatile, irritating and an suspected carcinogen. Has moderate antibacterial properties, is irritating to fish gills so water has to be well aerated (some fish are sensitive to treatment) and has algacide properties." (MASA reefpedia)
Hope this helps.
