300 gallon tank, 96*48*15

lllosingit. It's good lookin stuff. Plus, I shouldn't have much of a cycle so I can get it going quicker.
 
I finally got the guts up to drilling 3 more holes in the tank two nights ago and put in a $250 plumbing order to MD last night. I still need to drill the holes in the stand and put in extra bracing before shimming the stand.
 
I used hole saws from Menards. They turned out to be fairly aggressive bits and the cuts weren't as smooth as I hoped. The end product was fine, but the drill got stuck easy. I would recommend hole saws with smaller teeth if you can find one.

Marcus
 
Picked up some spa flex last night. Can't wait to plumb the closed loop! Things go well and I'll be water testing in a week or two.
 
A local store had a 4'*4'*~15" tank with a 1000w radium over it. It looked good, but had a large fan blowing on it all day to keep the temp in check. I'm planing bathroom vent fans for the room, but have high hopes of not having a fan over the tank.

Finished making the bottom of my tank look like swiss chees last night. I still have more bracing to add. I'll try to post more pics when I can.
 
Here is a pic to show the 6 holes in the bottom. One in the center for the drain, on center left for input to the OM 4way, and 4 outputs in the 4 corners.

47076holes_in_tank2.JPG


Here is a pic of the 2*6 bracing I added for extra support.

47076bracing.JPG


Here is a pic of the shims leveling the tank. Dan the Man has been helping my out with all this. He brought over a $300 level and showed off how good he is. Got to have the right friends in this hobbie.

47076shims.JPG


Expecting plumbing on wednesday. I'll post when I have more. Also, wife secured the first fish. She decided to get a sohol for her tank, which is ok for temporary quarters for the sohol, but after my tank is established, he's mine!!!:thumbsup:
 
I'm going to sound ignorant, but I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know about those terms. Itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s just a pvc pipe sticking straight up in the center. A durso would have a 180 degree bend at the top with a hole for air, right? What is a stockman?

Marcus
 
mwood said:
What is a stockman?

The only way to sound ignorant is to sound like you know it all!!

Stockman is similar but it has a round cap and has holes drilled in it. Both help quiet the wooshing water fall sound. I'd suggest one or the the other (though I've only used durso's).

Very easy to build and easy to tune
 
When in IA Pet, it just had the pvc as a drain. I never noticed noise, but maybe I wounldn't in a LFS. I don't want anythink that would inhibit flow as I thought about 2000 gph if the drain can handle. The only thing I need is a flat screen for the top. Dan had a nice one off his Tunze wave box.
 
I personally would not trust that stand with 2400 lbs of water/LR/etc

I would do a little work to it before adding water mostly the cross braces!
 
The stand IMHO as an engineer is more than capable of handling 2400 lbs. Each 2x4 can take about a 5000 lbs load on end without splitting, depending on construction techniques.

The ONLY concern I do have is that the cross braces do not have a 2x4 under the ends, so that they must distribute their load through the nails/screws to the vertical 2x4. As viggen stated, you may want to put a second 2x4 under each vertical column to take the load of the 2x6 at the ends. Also, you may want to add another 2x6 cross member where the other vertical 2x4 columns are and do a similiar vertical 2x4 arrangement 9ege two 2x4, one of which is under the 2x6 to take its load). I would be more concerned for long term strength, not on initial fill.

Most people here tend to overbuild their wood stands (myself included). Also, I'd be concerned about preserving the wood. I used an oil based primer and epoxy to completely seal the wood and make it waterproof. Just my 2 cents...

HTH

Bryan
 
as a funeral director :) LOL

IMHO I wouldn't trust it due to what you stated about the nails supporting the weight. That in itself to me shows it cannot safely hold the weight over the long run. I would also add a 3/4 sheet of plywood to the bottom of the stand to eliminate any shifting/moving of the sides.

Simply screwing in a 2x4 under the cross members would drastically improve the strength of the stand
 
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