$40 S.Gigantea

1. I would go the full treatment... just like with people. Shortcuts on treatments aren't your friend. I have cut them back one day with no ill effects, but a reinfection of resistant bacteria is not a fun time. I have tried 3 times in the past on rescue anemones and the only success I had was broad spectrum treatment and then using my clowns as little nurses. They kept most everything in the tank for picking on it and were messy eaters. I have never tried dosing the zoos before, but I am curious about your findings if you attempt it. It took about 3 months on my one survivor rescue to regain color. From a transference component, I would be curious to see how much would be adopted into the tissue. Probably a good test in the HT so you can control the outlier Zoos. I would assume that it would take a noticeable dosage to get it to supersede the natural ones.

If only we had about 5 more, we could test a couple variations (injection, feeding, etc). Hmm... ~wanders off to find some bleached anemones~

2. You are fine running the pump below if you have an inline valve that prevents back siphoning. They cost about $1-2. I have used them since I had an airline flood 15 years ago. None since that time.
 
1. I would go the full treatment... just like with people. Shortcuts on treatments aren't your friend. I have cut them back one day with no ill effects, but a reinfection of resistant bacteria is not a fun time. I have tried 3 times in the past on rescue anemones and the only success I had was broad spectrum treatment and then using my clowns as little nurses. They kept most everything in the tank for picking on it and were messy eaters. I have never tried dosing the zoos before, but I am curious about your findings if you attempt it. It took about 3 months on my one survivor rescue to regain color. From a transference component, I would be curious to see how much would be adopted into the tissue. Probably a good test in the HT so you can control the outlier Zoos. I would assume that it would take a noticeable dosage to get it to supersede the natural ones.

If only we had about 5 more, we could test a couple variations (injection, feeding, etc). Hmm... ~wanders off to find some bleached anemones~

2. You are fine running the pump below if you have an inline valve that prevents back siphoning. They cost about $1-2. I have used them since I had an airline flood 15 years ago. None since that time.

No worries, I am going to do the full treatment, and yes I have an inline valve.

Thanks for sharing.
 
4pm PST, 6 hours post initial treatment.

Not looking so good :/

I turned off the white led lights and just left on the actinic.





 
This is the biggest hurdle to get over. Goal is inflated 100% of the time, not 100% size, but inflated 100% of the time. It's hard to say what triggers the deflate. Million dollar question. IME, too much light is the biggest trigger of deflating, but other things can trigger it too. Good call to kill the white lights early.

After lights out, did it re-inflate? If so, (if it was mine) I would consider reduce intensity of light, maybe raise up a couple inches?. And another thought. When I had mine in the little containers, I was able to kick up the current, and it could pull in to find protection. When I water changed, I'd take a mj400 and blast the heck out of it, to blow the string snot around the foot away. Then suck up the junk off the bottom with water change. They can handle quite the breeze, as long as the foot has anchored well.
 
This is the biggest hurdle to get over. Goal is inflated 100% of the time, not 100% size, but inflated 100% of the time. It's hard to say what triggers the deflate. Million dollar question. IME, too much light is the biggest trigger of deflating, but other things can trigger it too. Good call to kill the white lights early.

After lights out, did it re-inflate? If so, (if it was mine) I would consider reduce intensity of light, maybe raise up a couple inches?. And another thought. When I had mine in the little containers, I was able to kick up the current, and it could pull in to find protection. When I water changed, I'd take a mj400 and blast the heck out of it, to blow the string snot around the foot away. Then suck up the junk off the bottom with water change. They can handle quite the breeze, as long as the foot has anchored well.


It inflated once I moved the lights about 3 inches above the tank rim. On the HT I have some cheap led, so the intensity isn't that great to begin with. However as you correctly pointed out when I just used the actinics it began perking up.
I have a mini koralia pointing at it and it seems to not mind it. It is attached to the bottom of the bowl. I just took these 2 photos now.

Tomorrow morning at 10 I'll do a 80-90% water change and dose 1/2 tablet. My HT is a 10 gallon. I feel that a whole one might be too much.





 
Also count 3 in the first picture of post 55! Different?

I'm not sure I fully understand the question you are making, however if you are referring to the odd number of siphonoglyphs, I think it might have to do with what I assumed was a developing second mouth. Look at post #34. It is definitely odd. I'll post an update after the first waterchange.
 
UPDATE: 9am - Day 2

Just did a 90% water change, mixing 2/3 NSW and 1/3 DT water.

Water in the tank wasn't cloudy at all and hardly any stringy waste, just a little gooey slime it expelled during yesterday.

The good news is that it stayed inflated since yesterday afternoon and still is.
The mouth is shut tight.

After a few hours I will siphon the undissolved Septra at the bottom of the tank, right now there is a bit of a snow globe effect.

I also added an MJ 1200 pump pointing at a corner to add extra flour as it seems not to mind the extra flow.




Here are a few details about my HT, in case others want to set one up, something that is highly encouraged if you decide to keep anemones of the Stichodactylidae and Heteractis family.

As part of the setup I normally use a mini Koralia wavemaker, it's tiny and produces a gentle flow, which is ideal when you're dealing with a sick specimen.

When the specimen is in good shape, I add an MJ 1200 pump to increase flow as needed.




My heater of choice is the Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm. It's the best out there IMO and it is ultra precise, something you want in an HT. I set it at 80F and do not have to worry about temperature fluctuations. My digital thermometer hovers around 80.2~80.4.


I also use an Aquaclear 20 hang on power filter to help keep water circulating. I removed the carbon and pellets and just use the sponge, to help remove detritus.




One last item I use are these cheap plastic clips. They have become an essential accessory, after a lot of trial and error using many different clip styles. THe nice thing is that there are no metal parts that will eventually rust, they have serrated teeth, and last but not least a semi round hoop that fits exactly 1/4" diameter airline tubing or RODI tubing, making them perfect for holding and routing waterlines in and out of the sump/tank/bucket.
Best of all they are around $5 at bedbath&beyond for about 12 :)

 
Don't suction of the undisolved medication. You can put the whole tablet in the high flow area (in the filter) and it will disolve completly. Remove those means less medication, not a full dose.
 
Don't suction of the undisolved medication. You can put the whole tablet in the high flow area (in the filter) and it will disolve completly. Remove those means less medication, not a full dose.

Got it, thanks Minh. Since I introduced the MJ 1200 pump, the tablet dissolved completely. With the koralia flow was too weak.

Today I dosed 1/2 tablet, because I felt that 800/160mg might be too strong in a 10g tank. What do you think?
 
Got it, thanks Minh. Since I introduced the MJ 1200 pump, the tablet dissolved completely. With the koralia flow was too weak.

Today I dosed 1/2 tablet, because I felt that 800/160mg might be too strong in a 10g tank. What do you think?


Now your using my methods. Lol :-)

Be careful with the MJ1200. I've sucked a few up even through the eggcrate. Cover your intake!!

 
I forgot about this. Makes me wonder, if you take some blue or purple tents, can you make a brown turn blue or purple, or a green turn blue, or give green tents to a blue? Is this the next step? Change the color of my gigs? Interesting thought. One of my blues I've had over a year, now has a couple tents that glow with my actinic LED's. I wondered if it picked up some green zoo from my green gig, being together over a year now. I don't remember seeing it glow this way a year ago. My green is still a glowing green though, no blue or purple showing up in it. I haven't tried feeding them each other's tents though... yet....

Just to clear things up zooxanthellae from one gig or another has no effect on the gigs color as its all a shade of brown. The reason you want it from another gig is to get the correct zooxanthellae species.

I've had good luck with getting nems to color up with PhycoPure Zooxanthellae by Algagen. I use a small syringe and inject it into food I feed them. I have also chopped off tentacles in the past.
 
Don't suction of the undisolved medication. You can put the whole tablet in the high flow area (in the filter) and it will disolve completly. Remove those means less medication, not a full dose.


I don't have that problem. :-)

I use both of these. I can dose 5 mags in about 3 minutes! ;-)



 
I'm not sure I fully understand the question you are making, however if you are referring to the odd number of siphonoglyphs, I think it might have to do with what I assumed was a developing second mouth. Look at post #34. It is definitely odd. I'll post an update after the first waterchange.

Yes, yes thats really interesting. In that picture it appears to be a siphonoglyph poking through another open. Is that what you observed and if so does it still have that second opening?
 
Yes, yes thats really interesting. In that picture it appears to be a siphonoglyph poking through another open. Is that what you observed and if so does it still have that second opening?

Yes, the opening was still there in the morning, however it was hard to see clearly as it is not inflated like when it was doing well.
 
I haven't been able to check progress until now as I was out most of the day.
Before I left home it was still inflated, but now it is back to completely closed, but firmly attached to the bottom of the bowl.


I administered the rest of the 1/2 Septra pill.

I turned off the white led's and I'll just leave actinics on.



 
Not looking good.

After I turned off the white led's it started opening up, which makes me suspect, that it doesn't like the bright white light, so I have switched to actinics only since about 7pm.

Took these 2 just a few minutes ago (turned on temporarily the white led's just to take the photos).

I am starting to believe that perhaps the inflation deflation is light related, given how bleached it is, it might need a much longer light acclimation than I anticipated.
I am going to leave just actinics on all the time during the next few days and see if the cycle stops.
It definitely likes the increased flow.




And from above.

 
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