60 Gallon Cube Build

Looking good! Nice job on the finish of the stand as well. Good tip on the return hole as well - I wasn't looking forward to a half inch return line.
 
looks awesome...and those outlets look much safer now too...i would think that chip is nothing to worry about...is the bottom pane of glass beveled and polished too?
 
looks awesome...and those outlets look much safer now too...i would think that chip is nothing to worry about...is the bottom pane of glass beveled and polished too?

I do not believe it is... but there is too much silicone to tell... It list looks locs a surface chip... Gonna lose sleep over it...I am water testing the tank tonight...
 
Electrical Is Done

Electrical Is Done

Well the electrical is done. The one black outlet is non-ups. the other two are...

The two 45 elbows are fun to the basement using flex PVC. These will not be used now, but are there just in case I want to move all my filtration down to a sump room. I figure $50 bucks and some work nbow will save me from having to empty the tank later.

The red cable is network, the blue is RO/DI, the purple is some two wire for the RO/DI emergency shutoff in my utility room. A leak under the tank will shut that down... The company said I can fun it up to 250 feet away from the shutoff...
 

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Leak Test....Pass

Leak Test....Pass

Passed the leak test. I need to rebuild the overflow. it is a bad silicone job and I may as well do it now...

The front glass bows (when empty or full) about 2mm. Why cant any company have any good quality control anymore...
 

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Wow, would not have expected any bow in a 24" glass pane that thick. Interesting. By bad silicone are you referring to the inside of the overflow, or the outside? Picking my CL 60 and 18g. sump up this evening - hope not to have any issues.
 
Wow, would not have expected any bow in a 24" glass pane that thick. Interesting. By bad silicone are you referring to the inside of the overflow, or the outside? Picking my CL 60 and 18g. sump up this evening - hope not to have any issues.



Inside. the plexi was glued to a glass overflow and king of came off. An attempt to just re-silicone is making it bilge. Probably best to list peal it off and re-do it.

The bow is with or without water. Cant tell without a straight edge so I am not worried...
 
Stand in its final resting place...

Stand in its final resting place...

Here it sits. I need to level it then make the base molding to cover the adjystable legs and shimms...

I just need to wax the other door and hang it...

I left just enough room for a chiller between the stand and the stairs. Just in case...
 

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More

More

Sea Horse Pull

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LED Lights Came In

LED Lights Came In

I received my LED kit (48 XP-E) kit today.

Added a fan to the canopy to blow on the heat sink direct. I will add another to exhaust the hot air...


Finished waxing the left door...
 

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Heat Sink Mounted

Heat Sink Mounted

Well I got the heat sink mounted today. Very simple method. some 1-1.5" aluminium angle that is 2" longer than the heat sink. Lay it on the bottom of the canopy lid and place the heat sink. Get it all lined up then mark and drill the holes. Once the angle in attached to the canopt the rest is easy...

I used all stainless screws. tapped them into the side of the heat sink. I will glue them in when it is all done to keep them from coming loose and having the heat sink crash down into the tank...
 

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48 LED's Glued In Place

48 LED's Glued In Place

Well, I am ready to wire up the LED's...

With this many LED's on this tank, I should hace great control over the lighting. I will need to find a PAR meter on Longisland to use to adjust it...
 

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Well one mistake lead to some extra wiring. I wanted to have the outer lights in one string (one for white and one for blue) then the inner lights for one string (Same). Well I whould have reverse mouted the opposite sides so I could run the string up once side and down the other. What I wound up with was a zig wire after the first 6 then a return ground after the last. Icould have done it but I wanted to avoid some crazy hook up wire on the top row.

any way, I confused you all but here is the pic... No I do not like to run wires on the top of the head sink.
 

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The test

The test

Well connected up the two drivers and tuned them to 750 MA. I wish someone would put instructions for simple stuff like how to take the cover off the meenwell drivers. Broke the clip in one and cracked the clip in the other... for what reason does a manufacturer have 4 screws that hold something on then mold a clip that holds just as strong as the screws...
 

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Nice LED setup. Now I am thinking, I just got my 36 LED DIY items. Should I went with the 48 instead? thought 48 is over kill for a 60 cube. But looking at your setup, makes me wonder if I should've went with the 48.... are you afraid of spotting since your pretty close to the water with that canopy??
 
Nice LED setup. Now I am thinking, I just got my 36 LED DIY items. Should I went with the 48 instead? thought 48 is over kill for a 60 cube. But looking at your setup, makes me wonder if I should've went with the 48.... are you afraid of spotting since your pretty close to the water with that canopy??

well I went with the 48 for two reasons...Actually 3 reasons...

1) It was suggested I get 36 but I like my lights whiter for viewing so I wanted a 2:1 White/Blue ratio. The ext set of blues was kind of a safety since most I have seen are 1:1...

2) I wanted a dimable moon light to run on the moon phase settings on my Apex. That second set of blues kills two birds with one stone...Yes 12 Royal blues is a lot for a moon light but I can run them at some low percentage...

3)the 36 LED's with the heat sink, shipping and such was something like $385 or so... I forget. The 48 was $410 to my door.


I am not worried about spotting because I am running no optics. Just a plexi splash shield. I may run optics on the outer ring but I will need to get my hands on a PAR meter before I start tweaking.


The only thing I am disappointed about is the apex does not give you any adjust-ability from the display or without reprogramming it from your PC then reprogramming it again and again. I don't know why they did not put a menu for tweaking the variable ports.
 
Drip Pan

Drip Pan

Well I built the drip pan for inside the stand today... It has a 12.5 gallon capacity but with the sump and the reservoir it is probably 1/3rd of that. Just in case any plumbing drips or when I power loss test my sumps capacity I can contain the overflow.


It was impossible to build and then install so I had to build it right in the stand. Unfortunately there is no way to leak test it without risking damage to the floor so I will mask it off and silicone the joints tomorrow, just in case.


I had a bunch of acrylic laying around but nothing was wide enough. I had to butt joint two pieces. The white paint camouflages any seams and once all the gear is in you cant really see much of it.
 

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All soldered up and tested. I may still run the black returns on the heat sink side but I dont know yet. Need to make another trip for more ss screws to the HD. I am not sure why so many people use non ss screws...
 

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Plumbing

Plumbing

Well statrted the plumbing today. I was going to rip out the overflow and rebuild it because it was a bit....off... but I re-siliconed it and moved on to the plumbing


Oversized the Durso to 1-1/4"


Pics tomorrow...
 
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