Everyone seems to like Killz, but I haven't tried it yet. That's what I plan to use unless I learn of something better. I opted to go with cement board in the fish room since I only have minimal wall space to cover.... the exterior walls are bare concrete and I just covered them in a product called Thoroseal. It's what the pro's prefer over Drylock from what I'm told. It's rather brittle and chalky and not something I would recommend using on drywall unless you want it coming off. Just watch the warning label and wear a mask - cancer causing, although what isn't these days. :rolleye1:
600 gal display/900+ gal build thread in the Chicago 'burbs.
- Thread starter wmilas
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JRaquatics
New member
WOW that thing is huge. I think I got a work out reading this thread. Nice job documenting your progress. This will be one hell of a reef tank.
I completely forgot about Kilz, good call. It's not too pricey either. I had to do the room in greenboard since it would have been silly cost wise to do it in concrete board.
The room only has one outside wall which was covered in plastic, then blown with cellulose insulation with a boric acid additive to prevent/retard mold growth. Then all the walls then got another layer of plastic that is directly behind the greenboard. I'm hoping if I coat the greenboard correctly I'll have a completely water and humidity perfect seal.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I used Valspar exterior latex primer for all my exposed drywall, and then Sherwin Williams 2 part Tile-Clad epoxy for the top coat (two coats FTW).
bonded very stong. After it cures in a week or two, the epoxy paint is super tough and water resistant. you could even use the stuff to paint the inside of the plywood tank if you wanted to.
I'm using alot of adhesive type wire clips for organization and the epoxy paint is great for that since any type of adhesive seems to really grab on.
bonded very stong. After it cures in a week or two, the epoxy paint is super tough and water resistant. you could even use the stuff to paint the inside of the plywood tank if you wanted to.
I'm using alot of adhesive type wire clips for organization and the epoxy paint is great for that since any type of adhesive seems to really grab on.
KCMO Reefer
New member
Great build going here. Curious to see how this turns out as I have a basement similar to yours and the desire for a big tank. Keep up the good work.
adammreef
New member
The green board you see at lowes and home depot is not mold and water proof, it does provide more protection than standard sheetrock in your bathrooms and kitchens against high humidity. The reason for this is because they both have a paper face which holds moisture and in time grows mold. The only 100% water proof and mold resistant board is fiberock which has no paper face.
here is a link for the fiberock and the usg site
adammreef: correct, or hardibacker or any concrete or fiber board for that mater that is unfaced. The problem arises that those boards require special fasteners, need a skim coat to hide the fiber or cement texture, along with the weight factor. If there is direct water exposure (such as a shower) by all means go fibre or cement. However for a large fishroom that has high humidity, but also has a humidity control system where you can monitor and adjust humidity levels, the extra expense and hassles of a fibre or concrete based product comes into question, or at least it did in my case.
My biggest fear is stray huimidity leakage into the wall spaces behind the board. Both the empty spaces in the interior walls and the insulated space in the exterior wall. This is what I'm trying to prevent by sealing the prepared surface.
My biggest fear is stray huimidity leakage into the wall spaces behind the board. Both the empty spaces in the interior walls and the insulated space in the exterior wall. This is what I'm trying to prevent by sealing the prepared surface.
OnlyCrimson
New member
That looked like a fun move! Killer project.
tattooreef
New member
i just saw your thread and must say very ballsy move taking that in above your heads like that. very impressed. and yeah if that had been glass it wouldnt have happened, i have a 10ft 10inch x24x25 and it took 12 of us to move but there was no way in h*** we culd have lifted it over our heads like that, and i also have an 8ftx24x25 that it took 8 of us to lift onto its 54inch tall stand so i know all about lifting heavy tanks, and you guys did a great job
Man, I can't believe you had guys standing there, holding the tank up above there heads for that long. I would've built a platform for it to slide on to and then lift it down from that. I can imagine that you couldn't feel your arms/shoulders for a couple weeks after that. :lol:
And then you STILL did more work after that! My hats off to you, that's for sure!
And then you STILL did more work after that! My hats off to you, that's for sure!
smorrow5773
New member
The Lowes in my area carries Valspar wall epoxy(2-part mix), IMO you cant get anything better than that for coating the walls in a fishroom, and can be tinted any color. It costs about 40/gal. HTH
smorrow5773
New member
I used flat primer and then epoxy, but nothing wrong with Kilz other than the price.
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