600 gal display/900+ gal build thread in the Chicago 'burbs.

[wmilas]

Just got a call from the plumber.. he wants to start 7am tomorrow... so the plan is get the plumbing rough in done tomorrow, lay concrete all day Tuesday with general shaping for the mudpour and drain for the fishroom. The idea is to reshape the floor for the fishroom so there is a slight slop to the drain, while the pad under the tank is perfectly flat.

If everything works out cure wed, then frame some more Thursday, then plumber comes back for some more finish work Friday.

My General is getting some stupid quotes for electrical. North of 6k without the fixtures and specialty dimmers. He (and me probably) might just end up wiring the whole basement ourselves. So hopefully electrical will start next week.

Some input on the electrical> I think I know what I want, but opinions would be great. I'm planning 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits to the sump/lighting area, and a third 20 amp running to the sump and then rapping around to the fuge/work bench area, would also probably share the general lighting for the room.

I had a 4th circuit originally for the lights, (not the tank lights) but damn, thats already 60 amps. I can't believe I'm going to need all that no matter what I put in down there. Am I shooting myself in the foot not running another 20 amps?

 

[wmilas]

Oh and btw I'd like to publicly acknowledge the help I'm getting from a fellow reefer that works for me. Don't know if he wants to speak up here or not so I won't announce his name and let him step forward if he wants.

He's been a great sounding board to bounce ideas off and I've spent many hours drawing stuff up on the whiteboard in his office bouncing ideas off him. The reason every thing looks well planned and thought out is greatly do to his input.

Thanks.

 

[PaPa_Johnny]

You can ask Jnarowe on here, I think you would not be amiss to run another 20 amp to the tank area. You can share it with some stuff in the room, but it's going to take a lot. I'm going to run 2 dedicated 20 amp GFCI's for my puny little 90 gallon tank. Oh, you didn't say, but I assume your electrical guy is using GFCI breakers? That would be cheaper than using receptacles.

Nice looking build also, can't wait to see the progress.

 

[Goodwin9]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12321763#post12321763 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wmilas
Just got a call from the plumber.. he wants to start 7am tomorrow... so the plan is get the plumbing rough in done tomorrow, lay concrete all day Tuesday with general shaping for the mudpour and drain for the fishroom. The idea is to reshape the floor for the fishroom so there is a slight slop to the drain, while the pad under the tank is perfectly flat.

If everything works out cure wed, then frame some more Thursday, then plumber comes back for some more finish work Friday.

My General is getting some stupid quotes for electrical. North of 6k without the fixtures and specialty dimmers. He (and me probably) might just end up wiring the whole basement ourselves. So hopefully electrical will start next week.

Some input on the electrical> I think I know what I want, but opinions would be great. I'm planning 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits to the sump/lighting area, and a third 20 amp running to the sump and then rapping around to the fuge/work bench area, would also probably share the general lighting for the room.

I had a 4th circuit originally for the lights, (not the tank lights) but damn, thats already 60 amps. I can't believe I'm going to need all that no matter what I put in down there. Am I shooting myself in the foot not running another 20 amps?

The more the better, I started my 600 with 3 circuits and had to add 3 more. Better to have too many than not enough.

 

[whiirly]

I would put in at least 4 maybe even 5 even if you dont use all the amps you can split pumps on different circuits so if one trips your hole tank doesnt shut down

 

[wmilas]

Ok I'll throw the extra breaker back into the mix.

As far as the GFCI breakers, I hadn't even thought of that! GREAT idea. Thanks for the suggestion. Makes those circuits so much easier.

 

[ReefEnabler]

It cannot hurt
to put it into perspective (or make you feel like you need more), I am doing 220diaplay/400total gallon build with a garage fishroom. A comparatively smaller system, and I have three 20 amp breakers.

1 for the display tank lighting, closedloop, other little goodies.

then 2 for the garage. 1 is for the return pump and a few other low-voltage items that aren't likely to cause nuissance trips (gotta protect that return pump), and then the other 20amp in the garage is for the heavy items: chiller, heaters, fuge lighting etc. I'm using a decent amount on each circuit, more than I originally planned.

i'm sure you already know but keep in mind you only want 80% load on those 20amps, so it fills up unexpectedly fast, and then you'll regret not having more juice!!

 

[rxinc]

Just came across this thread - outstanding job!

This is extremely helpful - I have similar sized unfinished basement in which I now have a non dedicated fish area ( tank 14 ft above on first level) that I was thinking of sealing off when we finish the basement and install an ERV - currently getting quotes.


The thing thats somewhat worrisome though is that hes of the opinion that the saltwater will eventually oxidize the pump causing it to fail.

I looked into this a little for my set up and found this sump pump that is made for brine conditions:

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-big-john-4-10-hp-bronze-sump-pump--pi-2151117.html

- Fred.

 

[wmilas]

Thanks for the link on the sump pump. Looks good, but I need an injector pump... same thing as a sump but bigger and will shred um.. waste, that falls into the pit. I'll see if the company makes an injector version. Hum.. wonder if thats injector or ejector.. never really listened close enough to the plumber.

As far as the erv/hrv this is the deal. I have an hrv (cold climate where an erv would be for a warm climate) for the house. Because of this I can have the intake for the fantechs either pull from before the hrv, or from after it... either way fresh air. I have a LARGE hepa (think 55 gallon drum) in line after the hrv so anything going through it gets cleaned. (also have the same exact setup for the top floor of the house). While it initially might make sense to pull after the hrv and hepa, the problem is the helpa also sucks air from the rest of the house too. Its wyed into the house and the hrv since it processes much more air than the hrv can supply.

So that means I either need to pull from right before or right after the hrv so as to not depressurize the house. I'm electing at this point to pull before the hrv because I'm assuming I might want to COOL the fishroom for heat and humidity reasons. If it turns out that I want to keep it warmer, I'll switch where I pull.

If this is too confusing ask and I can draw a diagram. I've thought a bit about it and I think this makes the most sense.

Ok so on to the progress The plumbers came today, and I actually have the concrete guys here right now, and they will probably be here till 8pm tonight. The plumbers will be back tomorrow to continue, but the idea is to hopefully let the cement cure enough tonight and tomorrow to frame a bit more.

This first pict is the plumbing for the bar.

These next ones are the fishroom drain, the fishroom sink drain, and that wierd pipe just sticking up is a standpipe drain that will be the gravity drain for the tanks.

Here is the shot of the bathroom

Here is the plumbing for the sink going in the garage. I'm planning on possibly doing live rock curing, and anything truly nasty in the garage, so I consider this part of the fishroom

 

[wmilas]

Well they are done with the pour. More dust

 

[mrchriscarlton]

wow wow wow.... loving this already! it's nothing but a framed room but WOW

keep the pictures coming!

 

[H20ENG]

Remember that you most likely be using 60 amps worth of power, but will have the correct breaker protection for each circuit. Better to add them now, since as mentioned, if one goes, you wont lose the whole life support system.

Awesome project there! Oh, and dont wipe the concrete dust, it'll scratch everything!

 

[wmilas]

Concrete dust: The dyson with the gentle brush attachment has been getting a SERIOUS workout. That thing is worth its weight in gold.

Good news! ATM called today and they are going to start on my tank tomorrow. They promised to take pictures of the build.

We were originally going to have the back 1" clear acrylic with a black thin acrylic overlay. However with the external overflow boxes they are of the opinion the overlay lamination is going to look odd. So they are going to make the back, the overflow boxes, and the right pane out of 1" black acrylic directly.

As far as progress today, the sink in the garage is hooked up, and all the copper plumbing has been run for the most part. I probably wont post pictures till the next major change as I'm working late for the next few days. If I get some take manufacturer pictures I'll post those

 

[ggk1988]

WOW Just found this thread. Looks really well thought out. Good Luck.

 

[wmilas]

Here are the first picts of the tank build. They are cut and dry fitting before the bonding starts.

 

[H20ENG]

ATM in Vegas?

 

[wmilas]

Yup. I know they aren't "in fashion" like some of the other tank builders, but they have been building large tanks for a long time, and I've seen some of thier work and was very impressed.

On something this size I wanted experience from a tank manufacturer.

 

[Typhon]

Great progress so far!! It is amazing that you have already thought about all the little details.

Also, it must of cost you a pretty penny to get a 120" tank. I know 1" acrylic is normally made in 8' sheets.

 

[wmilas]

Lets not talk about the cost. Black acrylic on top of it, in one inch that long *shudder*. It'll be worth it though as this is, hopefully, my last tank. I'm one of those people thats addicted to the clarity of the acrylic as opposed to glass. I think its a combination of the optical clarity (better than low iron glass) along with the the lac of refraction between the two materials (acrylic and water) like you get in glass.

When an acrylic tank is set up with super clean water, its like the fish are just floating there.

The downside is the maintenance issue with scratches. The upside is my tank should, hopefully, never have to be re-seamed, ect.

It would have been a ton cheaper to go glass thats for sure.

 

[cas]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12339085#post12339085 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wmilas
Concrete dust: The dyson with the gentle brush attachment has been getting a SERIOUS workout. That thing is worth its weight in gold.

Good news! ATM called today and they are going to start on my tank tomorrow. They promised to take pictures of the build.

We were originally going to have the back 1" clear acrylic with a black thin acrylic overlay. However with the external overflow boxes they are of the opinion the overlay lamination is going to look odd. So they are going to make the back, the overflow boxes, and the right pane out of 1" black acrylic directly.

As far as progress today, the sink in the garage is hooked up, and all the copper plumbing has been run for the most part. I probably wont post pictures till the next major change as I'm working late for the next few days. If I get some take manufacturer pictures I'll post those

You are running the copper into thr RODI unit only and using PVC on the outlet side, correct? Just wanted to remind you that one brass fitting or copper line any where near your tank system can cause problems.

By the way great build.