paulthomas
Premium Member
Sounds like the burbs would be the way to go.
600 gal display/900+ gal build thread in the Chicago 'burbs.
- Thread starter wmilas
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Sounds like the burbs would be the way to go.
Work continues. The electrical is coming along and the low voltage rough out is in. ATM states that the tank is nearly done and just needs to be drilled. The stand went in for powder coating today. Hopefully the tank and stand will be crated and shipped first part of next week.
Some overview pictures of the basement:
Electrical and low voltage for entertainment:
3 of the 4 20 amp circuits and 2 cat6 pulls for the tank room:
Some overview pictures of the basement:
Electrical and low voltage for entertainment:
3 of the 4 20 amp circuits and 2 cat6 pulls for the tank room:
I guess there are 5 20 amps though. Cause the work lights for the room, and the utility outlets are on thier own circuit.I know some of the local lurkers had expressed interest on helping with the move on tank day. Let me lay out the plans so far as the best I know it.
The plan is to have the tank delivered to the house Thursday or Friday the week after next (May 7-8). The current plan is to use a crane to move the tank over the front lawn and to the side of the house crate and all and plop it in front of the entry window. We will then take the stand down (its in 2 pieces) and set it up and (hopefully) get it shimmed. This will all be done with just the contractor, I and a few helpers I already have lined up.
Come Saturday I'm going to need some volunteers to uncrate the tank, get it into the window, into the basement, flipped over to apply the mastic and plywood bottom cushion that will be between the tank and the stand. We'll eat pizza, drink beer, wait an hour or so for the mastic to set, then flip the tank back over and muscle it up onto the stand.
I'll confirm the exact date and time as soon as I can get a definite shipping deliver confirmation. The pickup in Vegas is slated for next Monday night/Tuesday morning.
The plan is to have the tank delivered to the house Thursday or Friday the week after next (May 7-8). The current plan is to use a crane to move the tank over the front lawn and to the side of the house crate and all and plop it in front of the entry window. We will then take the stand down (its in 2 pieces) and set it up and (hopefully) get it shimmed. This will all be done with just the contractor, I and a few helpers I already have lined up.
Come Saturday I'm going to need some volunteers to uncrate the tank, get it into the window, into the basement, flipped over to apply the mastic and plywood bottom cushion that will be between the tank and the stand. We'll eat pizza, drink beer, wait an hour or so for the mastic to set, then flip the tank back over and muscle it up onto the stand.
I'll confirm the exact date and time as soon as I can get a definite shipping deliver confirmation. The pickup in Vegas is slated for next Monday night/Tuesday morning.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12405116#post12405116 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wmilas
Electrical and low voltage for entertainment:
Do your low voltage boxes protrude past the studs more than the thickness of drywall? I'm currently at a similar stage in my project as yours (basement walls sealed, insulated, framed and electrical ran). I just picked up a few low voltage boxes (they're like the orange boxes in your pic, but mine are green "ON Q Legrand" ). After I nailed one into place, I noticed that it protrudes about 1/4" past standard 1/2" drywall. I don't believe this would be acceptable per code since there would be a gap between the face plate and the drywall. It seems odd, but I checked it a few times and unless I'm missing something obvious, I don't get it. I just installed regular high voltage boxes instead. Would love to get your take on this.
Nice build by the way.
supersurfer12
New member
Cant wait to see the final product
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12411831#post12411831 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Oldtimer
Do your low voltage boxes protrude past the studs more than the thickness of drywall? I'm currently at a similar stage in my project as yours (basement walls sealed, insulated, framed and electrical ran). I just picked up a few low voltage boxes (they're like the orange boxes in your pic, but mine are green "ON Q Legrand" ). After I nailed one into place, I noticed that it protrudes about 1/4" past standard 1/2" drywall. I don't believe this would be acceptable per code since there would be a gap between the face plate and the drywall. It seems odd, but I checked it a few times and unless I'm missing something obvious, I don't get it. I just installed regular high voltage boxes instead. Would love to get your take on this.
Nice build by the way.
I just checked (you scared me) and the boxes stick out exactly 1/2 inch just like electrical will. I know drywall comes in different thicknesses so maybe you have specialty boxes? These boxes came from Menards or home depot (can't remember which since both are across the street from each other and I owe both my first born at this point). I *think* they came from Menards.
Also I only used boxes where there will be tension on the wires or a bunch of wires. In places like the terminus of a single pair of speaker wires I used a simple mud ring, which is code here (as long as you have full fire rated inwall cable which you have to have anyways). The box is jut there t o keep the bundles together and stop the wear and tear on the mud ring.
Sorry to scare you. I picked mine up from Lowes. They only had a couple to select from (single or double and new or old work). Glad to hear yours measure up properly. I'm returning mine. Heck, a full size high voltage electrical box is cheaper anyway. I do have in-wall fire rated UL cable for the speakers, so no worries there.
How do you like your subfloor so far? Is that the mat that you roll out and cut to length. I saw it at Home Depot (42" wide rolls IIRC). I'm on the fence about using it because my ceilings are already low in my 1937 home. I had a waterproofing system installed with sump pump due to some leaks on the walls, but I've never had problems with the floor. The floor is currently tiled. I may just do carpet and thick padding over the tile, but I wonder if the sub floor would help create a significant thermal barrier between the carpet and cold slab in the winters.
How do you like your subfloor so far? Is that the mat that you roll out and cut to length. I saw it at Home Depot (42" wide rolls IIRC). I'm on the fence about using it because my ceilings are already low in my 1937 home. I had a waterproofing system installed with sump pump due to some leaks on the walls, but I've never had problems with the floor. The floor is currently tiled. I may just do carpet and thick padding over the tile, but I wonder if the sub floor would help create a significant thermal barrier between the carpet and cold slab in the winters.
virginiadiver69
New member
I looked at the site but see pendants only. Are they available as just reflectors?
So far I like the subfloor. It is indeed the stuff from Home depot, although it may have come from Menards, again I can't be sure. It comes in both 4ft wide and 8 ft wide rolls. We used both to speed up putting it down... the 4ft wide are easier to trim, the 8ft wide for the center spaces. It literally looks like the bottom of golf shoes with the plastic (not metal) spikes, although the spikes have a larger diameter. They are in a grid pattern. Kinda looks like a giant waffle except round depressions.
We rolled the plastic then the 3/4" tongue and grooved on top of it. Drilled through into the cement and pounded in steel pins to hold it all in place.
So far I LOVE it. There are 2 alternatives besides this way to do the flooring. They make 1'x1' and 2'x2' plastic squares that have plastic slates that interlock with each other that padding can be placed directly on top of. They do not get attached directly to the floor but float. The other way to do it is to just lay pad directly over the cement.
The pros of the plain old pad and nothing else are cost and it takes the least amount of vertical space. The cons are no vapor and thermal barrier, and if there are any leaks no where for the water to go.
The pros of tthe 2'x2' squares are: Easy to install. Less wasted space but only by like a 1/4" of an inch compared to the sandwich ply, water has a place to go if there is a leak. Adds acushion to teh floor. Cons: Poor thermal and vapor barrier, most expensive of the options. Since the floor isn't affixed directly to the cement it moves too much in places for my taste.
The pros of the plastic and ply: Good thermal and vapor barrier, water has a place to go, good cushion, moderately priced. Cons: takes the most space, the most time consuming to install, cannot wick away as much water as the 2'x2' grids.
I had all the cracks 2-part injected and I have a warning alarm on the injector, and a backup (soon) on the sump so I could have gone with any of the options really as I'm not all that worried about foundation leaks.
In your case if you are worried about the height maybe just go really thick padding. If you have the height though, walking on that subloor is great.. it doesnt even feel like there is any concrete under it.
Thanks for the detailed info. I may still consider it. I had a water management system installed in the house about 6 months ago and it works great. It's commonly called the beaver system, but is basically a gutter that hugs the floor/wall and catches any water coming from the cold joint in addition to holes that they drilled into the wall near the bottom (block foundation). The gutter drains to a sump pump. Previously, I epoxy filled two large cracks and applied a product called Radonseal to the walls. I used to get a few cups of water during heavy rains, but the epoxy and Radonseal got it down to just seepage. I still have one crack in the laundry room which I did not seal since that room will not be finished. That crack happens to be adjacent to the sump pump, so when it rains heavy, you can hear the water caught by the gutter flowing into the sump pump. Works like a charm. No more water issues to deal with now. I'm looking at the subfloor mainly as a more comfortable surface to walk on and added insurance just in case water ever found it's way into the living space.
Just got confirmation that the freight company picked up the stand and tank today. I should have a better handle tomorrow on the delivery day, but ATM is saying they were told next Monday or Tuesday :eek1:
I didn't expect it to be this fast.. I've got some work to do tomorrow.
I didn't expect it to be this fast.. I've got some work to do tomorrow.
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